Do You Shoot .223 Or 5.56 Or Both And Why?

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I have a Mini 14 which shoots both (my AR is a 300 blk). I try to keep a minimum of 500 rounds in stock. The last time I replenished 5.56 was a bit lower in price.
 
use them interchangeably and always have. My AR's and one of my bolt guns are marked 5.56 anyway and the other bolt gun

Ive used both in 2 different bolt guns and my AR. Shot a lot of both this year because of not having enough time to sit at my press. Generally though I make more consistent ammo than I buy but bulk pricing gives me trigger time. I just don't expect groups as small with factory rounds.
 
Good point. Velocity doesn’t win matches. Consistency of load and loading techniques, combined with bag handling and conditions (ie, read the damn flags!) are the recipe for tiny groups. Velocity is only good for the internet chat rooms.

the desire for velocity isn’t about tiny groups. It’s about terminal ballistics. A sizable percent of 223/556 ammo is designed to fragment instead of expand and it needs quite a bit of velocity to do that. Velocity falls off rapidly with distance due to the low BCs of 223 bullets. Velocity drives effective range for these bullets and thus higher mv can be important.
 
the desire for velocity isn’t about tiny groups. It’s about terminal ballistics. A sizable percent of 223/556 ammo is designed to fragment instead of expand and it needs quite a bit of velocity to do that. Velocity falls off rapidly with distance due to the low BCs of 223 bullets. Velocity drives effective range for these bullets and thus higher mv can be important.

I don’t disagree - I was referring to group shooting.
 
the desire for velocity isn’t about tiny groups. It’s about terminal ballistics. A sizable percent of 223/556 ammo is designed to fragment instead of expand and it needs quite a bit of velocity to do that. Velocity falls off rapidly with distance due to the low BCs of 223 bullets. Velocity drives effective range for these bullets and thus higher mv can be important.

Very true.

.223 isn't my first choice when it comes to a hunting round and it never made much sense to me as a military round. But it is terrific for rock chucks and prairie dogs if you can keep a consistent point if impact.

6.5x55 is what I think of as the best classic General purpose military round and a darned good hunting round. Even .243 seems like a much better military round to me.
 
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Apparently, I shoot both at the same time. Ramshot says that my pet load is below the max of their 223 data and above the min of their 5.56 data.

If this is just about the frequency of zeroing a rifle, a shooter has to do that frequently, unless you're sitting on a huge ammo pile from the same manufacturer with the same lot number. It would probably be beneficial to zero for one and shoot the other so that you know where the other shoots.
 
Here are two good reads on the subject.
https://www.luckygunner.com/labs/5-56-vs-223/
What I've noticed is military surplus isn't as accurate as civilian .223. I guess military is MOT (minute of torso) and .223 is MOA.

This article covers it better than I ever could; plus, it keeps it short and sweet or there is a difference in their chambers.
https://americanweaponscomponents.com/clearing-the-caliber-confusion-223-wylde-vs-5-56-nato
Is a difference in chambers important? Well, what do you think?

IMO, it isn't worth the debate or if you're happy, then be happy. I will add and in my personal opinion; if I load a magazine with .223 and 5,56; the group size from my Wylde chamber is smaller.
 
I think the OP sort of lead the question or rather mislead the question around pressure and zero.

accuracy is important but that isn’t the reason to choose 223 vs 556.

the practical reasons for choosing actual mil spec ammo (that doesn’t have an x in front of it) over civilian match or plinking ammo include the following:

- mil ammo typically specifies a powder that includes a flash suppressant. Civilian powder additives tend to focus on things like eliminating copper fouling. This probably isn’t important to most people but if you shoot with NV you may appreciate it.

- sealant is applied to neck and primer. Tbh I’ve never really needed this but it might be a requirement for some who spend a lot more time in and around water.

- crimped primers. There’s a very recent thread about popped primers getting into the cam pin hole. Just one example of a rare but critical malfunction that can take weeks to clear.

- terminal ballistics are well documented. That’s not to say they’re better. Lot of folks would prefer expanding Bullets over something like m855, but at least you know what you’re getting.

- crimped bullet and cannelure is not something you want in a precision round but sometimes ammo that’s a little more durable is desirable

- aforementioned velocity
 
I suppose everything I shoot is .223 since 1. I load it myself, and 2. That’s the load data I chose. Everything gets the same diet whether 1:9, 1:8, or 1:7, Wylde or 5.56, and life is easy.
 
I only have one rifle that shoots .224 caliber bullets and it is an AR-15 with a 5.56 chamber. I got lucky and found out at the beginning that the rifle likes 64 grain Winchester Power-Points so that’s what I use. The Power-Point is a good hunting bullet IMO and versatile enough to cover what I will shoot with it - coyote, hog and axis deer. In truth the rifle doesn’t get used much. After owning the rifle a couple of years I finally decided to buy some bulk ammo for Armageddon. Picked up several boxes of different cheap ammo from Cabela’s and chose the one that shot closest to the Power-Points at 100 yards. I then bought a couple of thousand rounds. I do remember it was soft point which cost a little more than FMJ. I wanted Soft Point for two reasons. Number one they do more damage in soft flesh IMO. Number 2 is the ranges around me don’t allow FMJ. I go to ranges very infrequently but I have been known to go. If someone wants to send me $15.00 via PayPal I’ll go look and see what brand of bulk ammo I have, I don’t remember what it is.

If I shot a lot my scenario would obviously be different.

I forgot to add when I was choosing bulk ammo I didn’t test any 5.56 cuz I’ve always heard it’s not as accurate as .223.
 
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I have pulled bullets from various factory loads--steel case, import, and military in order to get better accuracy. I do remember years ago using Norinco brass 223 ammo and replacing the bullet with Sierra 52 match bullets. I got ~ half inch groups out of my 16" Colt HBAR. Friends called it Mexican match.

M
 
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At any given moment, assuming a rifle has been zeroed at all, all rifles are only zeroed for one load, regardless of cartridge designation.

You’re not zeroed for 223 or 5.56, you’re zeroed for your particular load used to zero. Even within the same .mil designation, it’s pretty common for 5.56 loads from different manufacturers to have different zeroes. Start talking about different brands and models of different bullet weights among 223 and 5.56, you could be all over the map.

Don’t overthink it. One brand, one load, one lot, one zero. Every step-change away from that specific combination of parameters is a potential shift in POI.

A varmint and pest control hunter, just like me. I found a good .223 round, and am zeroed for it. It performs viably to 250 yards, which is all I need for short
ranges I hunt.

Find what works for you. Zero that round. Buy bulk.
 
Both and much different loads for different guns. The Mini is zeroed for federal 50gr grey tip varmint ( unfortunately discontinued) the m4gery is zeroed for green tip and the other 3 are match rifles zeroed for 77gr 5.56 but shoot 223 77 to same poi
 
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