Does it really make sense to reload 7.62x39 for plinking?

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mousegun380

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I just aquired an AK47 and have been looking into reloading for it. I currently load many pistol calibers. I know I'm preaching to the choir when I say that it appears to be prohibitively expensive to reload this caliber. If I'm just shooting cans and paper, does it really make sense to buy brass, projectiles, etc, and perform all of the necessary trimming and primer pocket reaming? The only way I can see that I would save money is if I am able to use the brass like a half dozen times or more. Seems cheaper to wait for steel cased junk to go on sale.

Thanks for your input.
 
If you dont like steel cased ammo then yes it makes a great deal of sense. Such as if you are firing it out of an AR with a 7.62x39 upper.
 
mousegun380.....I'm wrestling with the same question. I just acquired a Russian sks and would like to treat it well so that it lasts me. I feel that the gun was designed with the steel cases in mind. In fact that is what a lot of people say about the sks and ak both.
But I know the brass cases will be easier on the gun and it WAS made in 1951. But in order to plink with it I'll have to do a hell of a lot of reloading. I'm thinking about stocking up on the steel case stuff while also shooting some brass cased ammo and then reloading it just to see how accurately it can made to shoot.

Just thinking out loud I guess. Listen to me......you would think......Hell I should just be happy that I live in a country that still allows me to do both.

No matter what you do good luck to you with it and I hope you enjoy it.
 
I reload it AND buy the cheapo stuff. For blasting I get the cheapo steel casings. For serious accuracy I get components and reload. Save money? Not really but if you wanted to shoot lead instead of jacketed and reload for cheap it could be done. BTW with light accuracy loads my brass has lasted more than 10 times so far w/o trouble. New W W brass 100 lot. For an SKS
 
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If less than 30 cents per round, or $6 per box, for premium ammo is "prohibitally expensive", then yes.....

I usually get 7 to 10 reloads out of winchester or federal brass that's $25 a bag, primers are around $4 per thousand, and the cheap bulk 123gr winchester bullets do fine. A cheaper option is the Missouri Bullet Co hard cast .30-30 bullets or the M1 115gr bullet.

If you're just plinking, a mild charge of H4895 (around 1900fps or so) and the 115gr hardcast would do fine and be around 20 cent a round. My "premium" loads usually involve a 150gr SST and a stout charge of AA1680, and cost around 55 cent or so per round. Case life is usually 5-7 reloads for the hot rounds.

t2e
 
In my opinion NO, but it's close

if bullets and brass were as cheap as for .223 then I'd say yes. But as it stands jacketed bullets are cost almost 2x as much for x39 as the NATO round.
 
i started picking up items to reload 7.36x39 (dies, brass and bullets) for when the price goes up, that way i wont be paying that high price like others are doing now for 223 and 308, 3006, 45acp etc.

just a thought

ones i have reloaded shoot good even some 150gr:D
 
Thanks a lot you guys. So those of you that load cast lead don't seem to have a problem with leading? I load tons of cast lead from Missouri Bullet for pistols where I can keep the velocity low but it seems like I would be much faster than that in the AK. Like 1700fps maybe?
 
frogo has it right, and others touch on it IMO.
for the AK I'd get the better grades of steel or brass cased mil-surp.
I have a Mini30 and a nephew a nice SKS w/scope. both have responded great to good handloads and even .308 150gr sp flat base tryed out for hunting, shot very well. I hate to admit but his SK edged out my M30 for group, both have small glass but my 30 I've hand-tweaked to cut groups in half and all we did to his SK is a trigger job, muzzle crown and bore polish. he has an early Chinese made in the Russki plant. I can't believe how good that thing shoots.
 
If I cast the bullets, I can load 7.62x39 a lot cheaper than even the steel cased stuff, being down around 10 cents a shot if I use scrounged brass.

CDD
 
Barely. It's one you reload if you just like to, and of course it gives you more control and versatility.
 
I've reloaded the Missouri Bullet Co M1 115gr bullet to 2000fps with very little to no leading at all. These are very hard lead bullets. A great powder for light cast bullet loads in the 1500 to 1900fps range is Unique. Lyman #49 has data, and they've ran flawlessly in every SKS, AK, and Mini-30 that I've tried them in.

I loaded up 100rds of X39 tonight for plinking, using range brass, the 115gr cast bullet, Unique, and CCI primers. Cost was in the range of 15 cent per round. Out of a slightly modded Mini 30 this load will shoot 2-2.25" @ 100y and clocks 1910fps. Just follow the Lyman data until you find the best accuracy and quit there. I also love this bullet at 1500fps for small game hunting. It's very quiet from a 20in barrel.

T2E
 
I would say right now no.... but there will be a time when it does get more expensive.

Keep in mind, alot depends on laws. If russia stops exporting, or the US stops importing "assult rifle ammo from those evil communists..." the prices will shoot up.

Keep in mind Tula, Brown Bear, Silver Bear, Wolf, Wolf Gold are all made in one Russian plant .... Tula.
 
So those of you that load cast lead don't seem to have a problem with leading?
If the bullets properly fit the barrel, and you use the right alloy, you're not likely to have too many leading problems. It's about all I use in the 30-30 or the .308 these days and I don't have any leading to speak of.
 
Not at the price I bought Wolf 7.62x39 a couple years ago, 17 cents/round. Lets just say I bought enough to shoot for a loooooooong time.:)
 
I could but I don't. Doesn't make any sence either. Most of the guns that shoot 7.62x39mm will tear up your brass anyway. Just take a look at the dents and the extractor pull marks in the rim. And like others have said the commie surp or commercial stuff is way cheap.
 
NUjudge is right on- if you cast your plinking bullets, and scrounge brass, you can shoot for powder and primers. 10 cents a round or less. Think a 30 round bannana for $3! :what:
 
I have been reloading 7.62x39mm for some time. I am not the worlds greatest shot, but I like to think some of my handloads are better than some factory ammo. I also love reloading, a relaxing, fun and productive hobby.
One other thing, when the ammo shortage had 7.62x39mm ammo scarce as hens teeth, I was still shooting. ;)
I get 5-8 loads per brass easily, and yes, they do show some wear from extraction/ejecting.

spentbrass.jpg

I like 24 grains of Accurate Arms #1680 under a Hornady 123grain FMJ. I have a mould, but havenst cast for it yet, nervous about lead shavings in the gas system. Hopefully i will have a CZ 527 7.62x39mm someday soon, and then I will break out the Lee 160grain mould. :)

In the end, I do it because I enjoy it.
 
I keep hoping to run across some 'plinker' fmj or hp bullets that are cheaper than buying already loaded steel cased ammo.
I've even thought about pulling a few bullets from my stash of Brown Bear just to try. :rolleyes:

My next order from Missouri Bullet will include some pills to try in the old sks. I'll just have to see how the gas system does with them. Some say it's no problem and some say it's nothing but???

ST

:)
 
In France we have a few restrictions on 'war calibers' so we can only buy 1000 rounds of factory ammo a year. However since there are no restirictions on reloading , its the only way to shoot.
I use Privi 123 grain bullets over 27 grains of N120 in once fired S&B cases. The S&B cases I get from the factory ammo that I shoot. Works out cheaper as well.
 
You guys have been so extremely helpful. Thanks a ton.

I have a question about bullet / die / case neck diameter as I am new to rifle cartridge reloading. I notice that the M1 bullets from Missouri Bullet tango2echo recomended are .309. I see that the Hornady dies for this caliber are .308. The spec in Lyman 49th is .311. Am I going to have to slug this gun to find out which caliber it is?

Also, if it's .311 and I run .308 bullets through it, will they be able to obturate and make a seal?
 
Am I going to have to slug this gun to find out which caliber it is?
It's kind of a PITA to slug the barrel, but if you intend to shoot much cast it's worth doing. You'll get much better accuracy and a lot less leading.
 
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