I started out with a LR-308 slick-side with 24" fluted stainless bull barrel- to be primarily used as a hunting rifle with bench capabilities.
Here's a few things that I can add to this thread -- from having gone through exactly what you are doing:
1.) I'd send your firearm off to ADCO to have the 24" barrel cut down to 18"-20".
I thought like you did about stand hunting with my LR-308. Last December, I got to my deer plot and there was a 10 point in the food plot. As much as I tried, I could NOT get a shot at him while trying to shoot the rifle free-hand. It simply had too much weight at the end of the barrel.
I was about to send mine to ADCO, but I found someone who traded me their 18" Chrome-Moly Bull Barrel LR-308B upper in a straight-even trade. I was amazed at how well the rifle balances with an 18" barrel. I can now shoot it free-hand if I had to.
In my personal opinion, out to 800 yards, 18" is an ideal barrel length for this rifle, and will still let it be a hunting rifle.
2.) No one has mentioned this, but you mentioned a collapsable stock.
If you want a collapsable stock, you have two directions to go:
A.) Either get DPMS or Armalite's .308 SPECIFIC buffer tube, AR-10 buffer spring and the .308 buffer. The .308 has a lot more recoil and needs a heavier buffer and spring.
Armalite's AR-10 buffer spring is good. Use that.
I don't know enough about Armalite's Buffer, however the 308 DPMS buffer isn't that heavy. They just cut one down to fit. I would NOT use it.
At this point, I "believe" that you will still need a stock in the above configuration designed for the 308.
B.) (BEST CHOICE)
Go to AR15.com and order Slash's AR-10 buffer. It is a heavy buffer that allows you to use a standard AR buffer tube on an AR-10 type rifle.
Here is a link to his ad:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=120&t=229073
Now get Armalite's AR-10 buffer sping. You can get them from Slash as well.
Now, you did all this so that you can now get any AR-15 collapsable stock and put it on your LR-308! Yay!
I've seen some nice guns with Magpul stocks, Vltor stocks, LMT stocks, etc.
Now, moving on...
As for optics, you've gotten good advice already. I'd look at brands -- depending on your funds-- like Leupold, Bushnell, Burris, Nikon, Ziess Conquest, Weaver, Trijicon Accupoint, etc.
4.) No one has mentioned triggers. You will likely want to replace the LR-308 trigger. It isn't that good. Problem is that it is hard to find a good trigger in stock anywhere right now. You have a few options-- some will cost you quite a bit, some will not:
A.) Geissele:
The adustable triggers will run you about $280. The SSA will run you about $180. These are the cream of the crop, and worth the money spent. You can find the adjustable triggers in stock in some places, but you won't find a SSA in stock anywhere-- trust me... I've tried.
B.) JP Enterprises:
Great adjustable triggers that will run you about $180. If you get a JP Trigger MAKE SURE you get the heavier springs (the RED SPRING KIT.) JP warns about using the Yellow Spring kit in 308 rifles-- too light.
C.) Timney:
I've read that many have installed these and like them. I've no experience with them, but for the price they go for, I'd just get a Geissele DMR trigger and be done with it.
D.) Rock River 2 Stage Match Trigger:
These have been considered the economical way to fix the AR (or LR) trigger at a reasonable cost. They run about $120. They've had good reviews.
I'll let you know in a week what I think of them. I have one being delievered today for my LR-308. I got tired of looking for a Geissele SSA trigger.
E.) MOST economical:
Bill Springfield at
http://www.triggerwork.net/index.html
He has gotten great reviews for his trigger job of your existing trigger. He charges about $35.00
Here's a tread with his happy customers:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=118&t=437922
5.) I doubt you'd want a brake on your rifle, but if you do get it threaded and install a break, be aware that your rifle is .920 inches at the muzzle. It is hard to find a brake that lines up and does not dip to a smaller diameter at the brake. I used the JP "cooley' brake because it is .925 inches.
6.) If you swap out your gas block for a low-profile, adjustable, etc., be aware that your bull barrel will need a .936 Gas Block. I have a .936 PRI low-profile gas block on mine.
7.) Forearms.
If you change out your forearm, be aware that:
A.) AR-15 Forearms DO NOT work on LR-308s.
B.) Forearms for the Armalite AR-10 DO NOT work on the LR-308-- thread pitch is different.
C.) The choice of forearms for all 308 AR's is a lot less than 5.56 AR-15s.
Even so...
A.) DPMS makes a cheaper railed forearm for the LR-308.
B.) Daniel Defense makes an EXCELLENT, but kinda expensive forearm for it.
C.) Superior Weapon Systems makes an EXCELLENT, but near the price of DD forearm for it. (Mine is having the SWS E-1 installed now.)
D.) Fulton Armory has a modular forearm that lets you add rails where you want them for a decent price.
E.) JP Enterprises has the VTAC forarm that many LOVE. It is modular and you can add rails where you want them.
Be aware that if you got a railed forearm and you wanted a continious rail from the receiver to the forearm, a High Profile slick side upper WILL NOT line up. It is roughly 1/2 inch higher than the rail. This is why I upgraded mine to the A3 upper.
8.) Grips:
A lot to choose from. These are roughy compatable with the AR-15, with the exception that the grip holds in the safety selector spring, and can be hard to keep in place while installing it. It helps if you drill or dremel a SHALLOW hole or detent to keep the spring in place. I did that on mine.
FYI, if you want to see what a lot of people have done with their LR-308's, take a look at this thread:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=121&t=285712
And you can learn a LOT about the LR-308 in this forum:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/forum.html?b=3&f=121
As of now, mine has been upgraded to the A3 Upper receiver, I've had the barrel threaded to 5/8x24, a JP Enterprises Brake installed, and it is at Superior Weapons Systems now getting a new E1 Forearm. It should be back home this week.
I hope all this helps.
-- John
As it stands right now my barrel nearing 26" with suppressor and that is almost 2" longer than I would ever want to be.