Thalinor
Member
Greetings
I just traded in my Bushmaster AR-15 Carry Handle Carbine for a DPMS Panther Sweet 16 (A total flat top, no fixed iron in the front or rear). The reasons why I made this trade are irrelevant to this post so I will just move on and get to the point…
Link to Rifle on DPMS's site: http://www.dpmsinc.com/firearms/firearm.aspx?id=12
When the dealer sold me the rifle he mentioned that the Sweet 16 used a “full size m16 bolt”. It was the end of the day and the place was closing so I did don’t have time to get into what that meant and thus the following question: What do they mean when the say “uses a full size m16 bolt”?
1) Does this mean that if I were to replace the bolt I would need to get something other than the standard AR-15 bolt sold for Bushmasters, etc? I found a complete stainless bolt for an AR-15; will it work in the Sweet 16? If I need replacement parts for the bolt (gas rings, firing piston, etc) will standard AR15 parts work?
2) If the SHTF and I were standing in front of a M16 that was damaged beyond repair but that had an undamaged bolt, could I drop it in my Sweet 16 because it is using a “full size m16 bolt”? (Side note, I am fully aware that it’s the sear in the lower that makes the M16 burst/auto, not the bolt. I ask the question because I am worried about replacement parts (specifically the bolt assembly) in a worst case scenario.)
The following information may not be correct, it’s only what I remember being told on several occasions. I have time and time again that there are four brands [made by 3 different manufactures] that are TRUE .223/5.56 barrels. These are Bushmaster, Armalite, RRA, and DPMS. From what I was told two of the brands above [I do not remember which two] use the same manufacturer for their parts, just different labels on those parts.
Armed with this [probably incorrect] information, it’s possible I made a real error in judgment. While I am ignorant when it comes to a lot of this stuff, I know enough that whatever it says on the barrel is what the firearm takes, regardless of what it says on the lower receiver. In the back of my head I knew DPMS sold rifles that were chambered for both 5.56 and .223, so when I asked the dealer and he pointed out it said 5.56/.223 on the lower receiver, I did not stop to look under the barrel for what it said there. It was only after I got the rifle home that I noticed on the barrel it said .223 1-9 twist with NO mention of 5.56 anywhere on the barrel.
I have read countless times that most decent barrels chambered in .223 will handle the higher pressures of the 5.56 with no problems, but in the end it bothers me that unlike my old bushmaster, this rifle does not say 5.56 on the barrel. It’s also confusing why they would use this so-called “full size m16 bolt” in a rifle that was not designed for 5.56 ammo. Does anyone know if the Stainless 16” Bull Barrel sold on the DPMS Sweet 16 is a true 5.56 barrel? Again, I know it will probably work with 5.56 rounds and that is not my point. My Bushmaster said 5.56 on the barrel and my new DPMS does not. Someone on another forum said that this is because DPMS did not want to confuse the civilian market and like all the other DPMS barrels [that are true 5.56 barrels] the Sweet 16 barrel was designed for 5.56 or .223 rounds. Is there any truth to this or is this barrel really a true .223 barrel?
Lastly, I have my heart set on some Troy flip up sights. They say they are designed for a same plane flattop. The flat top on my receiver is a little under 1 / 4 of an inch HIGHER than the top gas block rail. Does this mean that if I want to use the Troy Flip up BUIS I would have to replace the free floating tube with a free floating quad rail or change out the gas block with one with a slightly higher rail? Why the hell would they make that gas block rail slightly lower than the receiver rail!
If the Troy’s will not work with my current stock setup, can someone suggest other BUIS that are the same quality as Troy, but will work with the slightly lower front plane? I really want to use a Troy rear Flip iron [The Diamond Head one that is not out yet, but soon] and would be ok if I was forced to use something else in the front as long as it locked in place both in the lowered and raised position. Lastly, the DPMS Front Flip “Mangonel” iron sight IS NOT an option, as IMO it’s a POS!
Lastly, what do we think about the DPMS Titanium Bolt Assembly? How about the Chrome One? Some people have posted elsewhere that the Ti bolt may be a bad idea as it may be harder but is therefore more brittle. Is the Chrome then the best of both worlds? I want a bolt that will match the weather resistance of the SS barrel.
Thanks in advance for the information.
Jonathan
I just traded in my Bushmaster AR-15 Carry Handle Carbine for a DPMS Panther Sweet 16 (A total flat top, no fixed iron in the front or rear). The reasons why I made this trade are irrelevant to this post so I will just move on and get to the point…
Link to Rifle on DPMS's site: http://www.dpmsinc.com/firearms/firearm.aspx?id=12
When the dealer sold me the rifle he mentioned that the Sweet 16 used a “full size m16 bolt”. It was the end of the day and the place was closing so I did don’t have time to get into what that meant and thus the following question: What do they mean when the say “uses a full size m16 bolt”?
1) Does this mean that if I were to replace the bolt I would need to get something other than the standard AR-15 bolt sold for Bushmasters, etc? I found a complete stainless bolt for an AR-15; will it work in the Sweet 16? If I need replacement parts for the bolt (gas rings, firing piston, etc) will standard AR15 parts work?
2) If the SHTF and I were standing in front of a M16 that was damaged beyond repair but that had an undamaged bolt, could I drop it in my Sweet 16 because it is using a “full size m16 bolt”? (Side note, I am fully aware that it’s the sear in the lower that makes the M16 burst/auto, not the bolt. I ask the question because I am worried about replacement parts (specifically the bolt assembly) in a worst case scenario.)
The following information may not be correct, it’s only what I remember being told on several occasions. I have time and time again that there are four brands [made by 3 different manufactures] that are TRUE .223/5.56 barrels. These are Bushmaster, Armalite, RRA, and DPMS. From what I was told two of the brands above [I do not remember which two] use the same manufacturer for their parts, just different labels on those parts.
Armed with this [probably incorrect] information, it’s possible I made a real error in judgment. While I am ignorant when it comes to a lot of this stuff, I know enough that whatever it says on the barrel is what the firearm takes, regardless of what it says on the lower receiver. In the back of my head I knew DPMS sold rifles that were chambered for both 5.56 and .223, so when I asked the dealer and he pointed out it said 5.56/.223 on the lower receiver, I did not stop to look under the barrel for what it said there. It was only after I got the rifle home that I noticed on the barrel it said .223 1-9 twist with NO mention of 5.56 anywhere on the barrel.
I have read countless times that most decent barrels chambered in .223 will handle the higher pressures of the 5.56 with no problems, but in the end it bothers me that unlike my old bushmaster, this rifle does not say 5.56 on the barrel. It’s also confusing why they would use this so-called “full size m16 bolt” in a rifle that was not designed for 5.56 ammo. Does anyone know if the Stainless 16” Bull Barrel sold on the DPMS Sweet 16 is a true 5.56 barrel? Again, I know it will probably work with 5.56 rounds and that is not my point. My Bushmaster said 5.56 on the barrel and my new DPMS does not. Someone on another forum said that this is because DPMS did not want to confuse the civilian market and like all the other DPMS barrels [that are true 5.56 barrels] the Sweet 16 barrel was designed for 5.56 or .223 rounds. Is there any truth to this or is this barrel really a true .223 barrel?
Lastly, I have my heart set on some Troy flip up sights. They say they are designed for a same plane flattop. The flat top on my receiver is a little under 1 / 4 of an inch HIGHER than the top gas block rail. Does this mean that if I want to use the Troy Flip up BUIS I would have to replace the free floating tube with a free floating quad rail or change out the gas block with one with a slightly higher rail? Why the hell would they make that gas block rail slightly lower than the receiver rail!
If the Troy’s will not work with my current stock setup, can someone suggest other BUIS that are the same quality as Troy, but will work with the slightly lower front plane? I really want to use a Troy rear Flip iron [The Diamond Head one that is not out yet, but soon] and would be ok if I was forced to use something else in the front as long as it locked in place both in the lowered and raised position. Lastly, the DPMS Front Flip “Mangonel” iron sight IS NOT an option, as IMO it’s a POS!
Lastly, what do we think about the DPMS Titanium Bolt Assembly? How about the Chrome One? Some people have posted elsewhere that the Ti bolt may be a bad idea as it may be harder but is therefore more brittle. Is the Chrome then the best of both worlds? I want a bolt that will match the weather resistance of the SS barrel.
Thanks in advance for the information.
Jonathan
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what have I missed?
