Dry graphite rather than oil lubricant?

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Owen Sparks

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I just got through putting graphite into the keyhole on the front door and could not help but wonder how it would do on firearms. I shoot a Benelli shotgun and know that some people out west recomend running them "dry", that is without oil as oil tends to trap and hold fine particles of sand and gum up the action.

Would graphite work as a substitute for oil based lubricants if you were in Iraq or some other dry arid place prone to wind blown sand?
 
Graphite gun lube...

Graphite is also soft and does not provide heavy load lubrication.
This would be my biggest concern with using graphite for a gun lube. It works good in house door locks, even with aluminum or brass keys, but the key doesn't stay in the lock all that long, and a door lock is not normally subject to heavy loads.

You don't want to run a firearm dirty, but I understand (this is not first-hand experience!) that in the Sandbox, if you have no other choices, dry & dirty is much worse than wet (lubed) & dirty.

Clean at first opportunity, of course.
 
From what I understand of gun running by our troops, they keep oiling them.
 
You're on the right track with the dry lube idea, but I wouldn't use graphite for the corrosion issues alone. But there are lots of other good dry lubes out there. Try Hoppes (apply outdoors, the fumes are nasty) or Remington.

Take a look at your local bicycle shop, bike chains have been dealing with the "how to lube but not trap dirt" issue for a long time and you should find several different dry lubes.
 
I guess not graphite on aluminum but it is a very good heat proof lub. The steel and metal industry uses it for a lub on the doors for the furnace.
 
45 years ago growing up hunting deer in Northern Wisconsin, graphite was the go to lube for deer rifles, especially autoloaders. Standard gun oil of the day would turn to gum in below zero temps and make a 742 inoperable. Many an ol codger still bears the scar on his trigger finger from trying to operate a gummed up 742 bolt while a wounded buck staggered away. The sharp edges would take a pretty good chunk outta the side of your finger as it slid off the stubborn action.:cuss:
 
I find that DuPont s Teflon non-stick lube works great and it goes on wet and dries to leave a non oily Teflon residue. Do not get the one with wax in it.
On my Handies I clean the receiver with brake fluid followed by the Teflon spray
 
Here's a trick when using graphite to lube key locks pad locks etc.. infuse graphite with alcohol inside a spray bottle,or squeeze bulb, dental syringe etc. Shake and inject solution; Alcohol carries graphite deep into lock for better distribution. Alcohol quickly evaporates leaving graphite particles for dry lube.
 
Oh noes!:uhoh:

I've been using auto assembly lube on my bottom feeders' slide rails. It contains moly & graphite. Probably OK for the 1911 but my KP90 has an alloy frame & SS slide.

Meh... I'll probably just switch over to CorrosionX next range session/cleaning. The stuff sets up to a sorta greaselike viscosity & is pretty slick. Pricey tho.
 
I use Hornady One Shot on my semi-auto rimfires. I works really well and doesn't gum up and collect alot of dirt.
 
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