Dualing tree materials. 1/2” plate.

[SamT1]

Hey guys. I’m not sure this is the right forum , but we can move it if needed I guess.

I’d sure like to have a dualing tree, but I’m poor! I have a piece of old 1/2” steel plate that I was able to draw 6 of these paddles on after 4 tries to squeeze them in. I have lots of scraps so the rest of the setup is no problem.

We shoot a lot of cast lead, hence why I can shoot and I’m poor at the same time. I know the 1/2” can take a ton of shots from 45’s loaded with 200grain lead bullets, but what about the bigger stuff?
Say a 44mag with a lead bullet (dad has a Henry so it’s gonna pack punch. or a 480 Ruger with a 400 grainer. Lots of 460 Rowland singing those 200grain LSWC about 1400.
Also what happens if someone gets after it with a 45 and FMJ ammo? Will the paddles swing enough that it won’t crater them.

What can the regular steel handle?
Should I heat treat it?

When it falls apart ill take my template to the metal shop and have him jet me some AR500 paddles to drop in the existing tree.

 

[1KPerDay]

Hard to say. Mild rolled steel can be ok for most handgun stuff but the faster and harder you go you'll start getting pits/divots and that's bad news. AR500 plates are not too expensive and are VASTLY superior IME. Only way to check is to make up some of your plates and shoot them. Might be fine.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

I wouldn't even put the effort into making one using mild steel. AR500 kits are relatively inexpensive on eBay. They include the paddles and tubes. You supply the angle.

 

[Riomouse911]

Every mild steel plate I have ever used is a pockmarked mess after just a single afternoon with anything more powerful than .38 specials and .22 LR. Even .22 Magnum FMJ's leave a nasty little dent in anything less than AR 500 steel. The 1/2" plate you have may last a bit longer than the thinner ones I have used from the scrap-steel piles, but the weight/friction of a 1/2" steel paddle will require enough oomph to swing it to the opposite side. That means more energy required on the target, meaning it's now easier to ding/dent the plate. This will quickly make it functionally useless due to the dents, or a real ricochet hazard.

Seriously: save up for the AR 500 or AR 550 paddles and do it right the first time. It may take a bit more time to acquire the dueling tree, but you'll be glad you did!

 

[SamT1]

I cut one paddle. I'll attack it and report back.
Do the $60 kits off eBay hold up, looks like they get very thin on the arm and shank.

 

[FN in MT]

Steel targets are one of those "You get what You Pay FOR" items. The cheap kits are just that....cheap.

Go AR500 unless you are shooting light stuff.

I bought an MGM 6 plate dueling tree from Mike Grand out by Boise, TEN years back. It has been whacked with thousands of rds of fmj, .357 sig, 9mm, 10mm, etc. All we do is repaint the paddles.

 

[Varminterror]

I made a bunch of targets from mild steel over the years, but I'm happy to buy AR500 and 550 steel from now on. I recall at one time I had a mild steel TYL rack I'd built years prior, with tens of thousands of 22LR rounds fired on it... I took ONE shot with a 240grn jhp from a 44mag 1894 and put a clean hole through the 2" plate...

Steel targets at box stores are expensive, but there are plenty of outlets online for cheap AR500 targets, with free shipping.

When a guy looks at physics and metallurgy, it becomes clear why thickness doesn't ever make up for hardness. Thicker plates will stand up to bending/bowling, but they are heavier and don't move as easily, so they take more surface and crater deformations. Making a dueling tree suitable for a 44mag rifle and 480R but still light enough to be able to swing with a lighter load is a different story in itself as well.

I'm happy to use mild steel out at 1,000yrds, but for short range handgun work, I can say I have no desire to tear apart mild steel targets, nor do I have desire to run the risk of injury/death by shooting cratered/bent/pocked steel at short range.

 

[SamT1]

I haven’t shot mine yet. It’s heavy and built out of junk. I doubt a 9mm will swing it. But we will find out! I put everything at a good angle to encourage deflection. All my bullets are 12 hardness so I’m optimistic. But that’s gonna suck if all it takes is one jacketed bullet that gets “accidentally” shot at it. Won’t be me though, I don’t buy jacketed bullets (for pistol calibers)

 

[jmorris]

I built mine using 3/8 mild steel, it’s fine for non magnum pistol rounds.

If you make one just keep a hunk of plate handy to test with. If it gets hurt with any particular round, don’t shoot your plates with it.

This is the back side of mine.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

I like the wheels

 

[SamT1]

Well we tested the tree today. I got the other 2 paddles cut and we assaulted it right before dark.
Started with 45acp
480 Ruger 400 grain 1100fps
30-30 185gr 1400
460 Rowland 200gr 1250.

All were cast bullets wheel weight alloy at 20 yards. The paddles are pretty heavy for the 45acp loads. If you hit it close to the stem it wouldn’t swing it.

No damage. So we’re good to go. I’m confident any cast bullet is fine. All we could do more is a 45-70 or a shotgun slug.