mileyjason
Member
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- Aug 27, 2011
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i recently had my XD slide dura coated and was wanting to know his the inside should have been dura coated?
Dura coating
- Thread starter mileyjason
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crossrhodes
Member
If you want too
I've all way do the inside and never had any problems, this includes AR's too.
I've all way do the inside and never had any problems, this includes AR's too.
Shadow 7D
Member
Mostly No, as the finish will cause issues with tight clearances
Duracoat is a paint and will not stand up to abrasion. Any parts that come in contact will show marks quickly and can impede function.
Plating like nickel or hard chrome also add a layer to the original parts and have to be taken into consideration prior to application. Generally, because plating is much thinner than paint there is less of a problem.
On the XD, it would certainly NOT be proper to coat the inside of the slide. Rub marks will show instantly (and be ugly) and then you would have rubbed off Duracoat mixed with oil fouling your pistol.
Plating like nickel or hard chrome also add a layer to the original parts and have to be taken into consideration prior to application. Generally, because plating is much thinner than paint there is less of a problem.
On the XD, it would certainly NOT be proper to coat the inside of the slide. Rub marks will show instantly (and be ugly) and then you would have rubbed off Duracoat mixed with oil fouling your pistol.
Shadow 7D
Member
Um
not quite true AZ
see there are a number of coatings (which I guess you could group as 'paint')
that are SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED to hold up to wear and tear, in high pressure, lube sensitive applications.
not quite true AZ
see there are a number of coatings (which I guess you could group as 'paint')
that are SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED to hold up to wear and tear, in high pressure, lube sensitive applications.
.338Sako
Member
I dura-coat for myself and money, and I never apply dura-coat to the inside actions. It will not hold up to excess friction with tight tolerance parts. However on the outside I have had very good success.
Shadow 7D
Member
KG Coating.... GunKote, or some of the others like Cera-Coat are crosses from heavy industry, designed for heavy wear and friction, BUT they are also not something you put on once and think it'll last forever.
crossrhodes
Member
No problems yet
I also do duracoat, Gunkote,Gearkot and ceracoat and a little over spray in the receiver will not cause any operating issue. I've gone as far as using KG gear coat on some bolt carriers to see what would happen. Yes it will ware and show some marks, even chrome or nickle will show some marks. Zero Fail has reports of it flaking off. But I've never had an AR fail or have issues from the gearkote. Now if you do something wild and give it a five mil coating in certain areas it may cause a problem. Now the gearkote is designed for piston skirts, which is similar to the BCG moving rapidly in the receiver of an AR 15. But remember that KG is made for tight tolerances, high pressure and high heat. I like KG because it does dissipate heat very well and is, or, was used on water pumps, radiators and oil cooler for high performance cars some time ago. For a poor mans coating it worked well. It's what we got until they come out with a home kit for Tenifer and NP3. FYI KG has a ceramic coat for piston domes for continuous 1200 degree use. Remember there is now Duracoat SL and quicken to add and KG has a good pre phospate before spraying. The impact area on hammers is a waste of time but areas the move close or rub a little will be fine. My mag wells are slick as snail snot with Gunkote. It's trial and error on some but you'll figure it out like the rest of us rocket scientist. Good luck and have fun doing it.
I also do duracoat, Gunkote,Gearkot and ceracoat and a little over spray in the receiver will not cause any operating issue. I've gone as far as using KG gear coat on some bolt carriers to see what would happen. Yes it will ware and show some marks, even chrome or nickle will show some marks. Zero Fail has reports of it flaking off. But I've never had an AR fail or have issues from the gearkote. Now if you do something wild and give it a five mil coating in certain areas it may cause a problem. Now the gearkote is designed for piston skirts, which is similar to the BCG moving rapidly in the receiver of an AR 15. But remember that KG is made for tight tolerances, high pressure and high heat. I like KG because it does dissipate heat very well and is, or, was used on water pumps, radiators and oil cooler for high performance cars some time ago. For a poor mans coating it worked well. It's what we got until they come out with a home kit for Tenifer and NP3. FYI KG has a ceramic coat for piston domes for continuous 1200 degree use. Remember there is now Duracoat SL and quicken to add and KG has a good pre phospate before spraying. The impact area on hammers is a waste of time but areas the move close or rub a little will be fine. My mag wells are slick as snail snot with Gunkote. It's trial and error on some but you'll figure it out like the rest of us rocket scientist. Good luck and have fun doing it.
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Shadow 7D
Member
Just realize that 'gun metal blue' - or at least the batch I got, was much closer to "blueberry" blue than the black/blue I was expecting. That's OK, I just put some sparkles in it and used it, now all I need is white and blue...
Oh and I like KG because you can tint/add auto pigments for the desired effects or shades. Which means that you can find the shade you want in pretty much every town in america.
Oh and I like KG because you can tint/add auto pigments for the desired effects or shades. Which means that you can find the shade you want in pretty much every town in america.
Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
I most certainly would not duracoat the inside of an xD. Too much "build" for tight clearances, won't hold up to abrasion as the gun cycles, which means you'll have paint scrapings inside the gun as well as the normal firing debris. That is, of course, IF it cycles. Get it in the wrong place and it won't even go back together.
crossrhodes
Member
Dura coat
You are correct about that Sam1911. I tape up the sear and receiver pins and just coat the ends to match the receiver when put back in place.
You are correct about that Sam1911. I tape up the sear and receiver pins and just coat the ends to match the receiver when put back in place.
dagger dog
Member
I Dura Coated a SIG 226, got a little too much build up on the slide where the barrel goes through. Cold not cycle the slide by hand would bind before ejection. Took a while to figure out but all I had to do was a little polishing(removing) the dura coat at the opening of the slide. Was wise enough to mask the rail slides that was obvious.
I used the aerosol sprayer that came with a kit, it lays it on a little thick, a cheap adjustable air brush would be a lot better you can lay down mutiple thin coats instead of one heavy one.
Another tip you defititley need some (tooth) and sand blasting with glass beads make the whole project look better and last longer.
I used the aerosol sprayer that came with a kit, it lays it on a little thick, a cheap adjustable air brush would be a lot better you can lay down mutiple thin coats instead of one heavy one.
Another tip you defititley need some (tooth) and sand blasting with glass beads make the whole project look better and last longer.
RGO
Member
Gun Blue is much bluer than a real blued finish. If you want to use Duracoat to better replicate the look of bluing, try mixing Gun Blue and Gloss Black.
Shadow 7D
Member
Yeah...
guess I'll just have to get used to 'pretty' and 'cute'
guess I'll just have to get used to 'pretty' and 'cute'
crossrhodes
Member
Daggerdog
I wouldn't recommend glass bead for blasting because it dosen't cut enough into the surface. Aluminum Oxide 120 grit is recommended and works good and wont bother any of the ingraving or ser#.
I wouldn't recommend glass bead for blasting because it dosen't cut enough into the surface. Aluminum Oxide 120 grit is recommended and works good and wont bother any of the ingraving or ser#.
Shadow 7D said:
Please tell me what coating you are talking about that would be appropriate to apply to the INSIDE of a Springfield XD as the OP questioned. As a professional working in the gun finishing industry I would appreciate information about new products.
As my comment was specific to Duracoat I am not sure what your interjection was intended to indicate.
bgr2014
Member
Gun Coating
Contact: Ten-Ring Precision, Inc. Ph 1-210-494-3063 I buy his TR Gun Kote you have to spray it on with an air brush. He has it in matt black and silver. He recommends using DuPont Starblast XL aluminum oxide blasting media for a good tooth on the metal. The parts have to be baked on in an oven, and can't touch each other while baking. Don't use any of these type coatings without the proper mask. I got mine from Ohr safety supplies. Tell them what you are spraying and they will send you the proper canister. I've also sprayed Teflon and Cera Coat. Cera Coat is a ceramic coating and tough. like TR Gun Kote. The Teflon is not as tough but works good on shotguns down here on the Gulf Coast. I've quit doing any coating at all, getting too old and can't take the heat. Good Luck
Contact: Ten-Ring Precision, Inc. Ph 1-210-494-3063 I buy his TR Gun Kote you have to spray it on with an air brush. He has it in matt black and silver. He recommends using DuPont Starblast XL aluminum oxide blasting media for a good tooth on the metal. The parts have to be baked on in an oven, and can't touch each other while baking. Don't use any of these type coatings without the proper mask. I got mine from Ohr safety supplies. Tell them what you are spraying and they will send you the proper canister. I've also sprayed Teflon and Cera Coat. Cera Coat is a ceramic coating and tough. like TR Gun Kote. The Teflon is not as tough but works good on shotguns down here on the Gulf Coast. I've quit doing any coating at all, getting too old and can't take the heat. Good Luck
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