Durability of Commander vs LW Commander

Arkansas Paul

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Looking at Commander sized 1911s.
I'm leaning towards the LW model with an alloy frame because I'll end up carrying it OWB in the cooler months where I can wear a sportcoat.

My question is related to durability. I figure the all steel has to hold up better, but how much?
Will the alloy frame models stand up to tens of thousands of rounds?
 
I have one of each in CCO configuration.
Commander slide on a officer size frame. Conceals better than a full size Commander. Longer sight radius helps with reliability over Compact versions.
My steel one weighs 8 ounces more than my alloy version.
I carry the alloy version. I've had it somewhere around 15 years and it's been fine. 4.25" Sig Sauer C3 1911. Excellent shooter.
The steel one is a 4" Wilson Combat CQB Compact. Excellent shooter as well.
Both have thousands of rounds they them.
 
Eh, I've owned many of both -- Combat Commanders and Lightweight Commanders.

None of us will ever wear out a LW Commander. Unless you are 20 years old and plan on shooting your LW Commander to the tune of a thousand rounds a year for the next twenty years, I'd just say -- don't worry about it.
 
Some Jeff Cooper comments that I remember reading (I'm pretty sure these are correct)

The Lightweight Commander is without rival as a defensive handgun.

I think he also called it a "carried often, shot seldom" gun. However, by that I think he meant the Lightweight Commander is a 50,000 round gun and not a 100,000 round gun.

He also commented that if he was wasn't choosing the Lightweight Commander, he'd choose the Government Model over the Combat Commander, as there wasn't much weight advantage, and at that point he'd just choose the full size gun.
 
I have two nearly identical 1911's... 2 Kimber 4" .45's, one is an alloy frame, the other stainless. As much as I love my stainless Eclipse, I prefer shooting my alloy ProCarry. The trade off is, of course, recoil... full-house 230grn ammo really cracks your hand, where it's nothing in the heavier stainless. To that end, while I still carry full house factory 230's in it when I carry it, my training ammo is 200grn handloads at about 80% of full snort... it's easier on me, and I'm assuming easier on the pistol. Whether that adds to any additional life for the pistol, in reality I'll likely never know. One other item... I'm a fanatic about changing out the recoil springs. Kimber recommends changing the single recoil spring on the 4" pistols every 800rds... I usually swap mine out every 500 rounds or so. I've been criticized for 'wasting' my money on new springs... but it's a frikkin' $7 part to ensure reliable function in a carry piece. It's cheaper than a Happy Meal...
 
The first lightweight frame i got was a Colt defender. While it still functioned, learned to insure the edges of the steel slide were broke over on other alloy framed 45 pistols bought. Other alloy frames learned me on being careful with what followers were in the mag, use of certain hollow points and use of supported barrel or insert in frame. Am liking Ruger's light weight commander SR1911 for carry purposes, although put a 5 in barrel in it.
 
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I have (2) LW Commanders. A Kimber Pro Carry in 45ACP and a Dan Wesson Vigil in 9MM. The Kimber has 15K+ through it and the Vigil 2K+ through it. Photo below is of the Kimber with 15K through it. The frame only has finish wear. The KimPro finish is not very durable (at least not on my Kimber) No burrs or worn spots. Slide to frame fit still good. No loss of accuracy. The alloy frames are not a concern to me and I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one.

oDGoCUsl.jpg
 
You should be just fine with the LW and its alloy frame. Three of my six 1911 pistols have alloy frames, none have had an issue with a combined several thousand shots to date. (Ruger SR1911 .45, Springfield Ronin & Kimber Ultra Carry II 9mm).

Let us know what you decide when you make your choice. :thumbup:

Stay safe.
 
Will the alloy frame models stand up to tens of thousands of rounds?

Will the alloy frame models stand up to tens of thousands of rounds?
You will more likely wear out the bound copies of Arkansas Code in the office bookcase than a LWC.
Now, how LW your example will be will vary by who makes it.

If they could survive IPSC back in the 80s & 90s, they are likely to last in ordinary service.

To a certain extent, it's a bit like owning a Kubota tractor with the aluminum block--the basic maintenance is the same, but, you eyeball places where repetitive impact occurs. With an LWC, you check the slide stop, eyeball the recoil plug, and put a square on the slide rails, maybe every thousand, 1500, rounds.
 
I am a LW commander fan, I owned a gov't size, steel commander and lightweight commander all together at one time. While the full size had the less abrupt and most comfortable recoil of the three, I found the LW commander had less "snappy" feeling recoil than the steel commander.
I'm not really too concerned about wearing it out considering the long lifespan of other alloy frame pistols such as the Beretta 92's, 3rd Gen S&W's and Sigs.
 
Post 1,
While it isn't particularly a "crap shoot", I think it'll just depend on the general luck.
I had one steel-framed .45ACP Colt Commander, bought new, which was warranty-returned and replaced by Colt after ~7 months due to its frame beginning to crack. I couldn't find any detailed notes but let's estimate 7K to 14K rounds, as I shot a lot back then.

Alloy vs. steel doesn't necessarily enter into my decision much on handguns. Even so, I see I've only bought steel-framed 1911s over the 8 or 9 I've probably owned. I suppos I've just not come across any alloy-framed 1911s I wanted over the years.

BTW, I've even had polymer-framed Glocks crack and be replaced, but I haven't yet cracked any of my 3 alloy-framed SIG P-series guns.

Just buy both and if one cracks over you shooting tens of thousands of rounds, figure you've got your money's worth out of it and buy something else at that time. If in doubt, buy both (alloy and steel framed guns).
 
Will the alloy frame models stand up to tens of thousands of rounds?
The real question should be' "How long will it stand up?"

Action Pistol shooters replace metal framed 1911s, even with constant spring changes and consistent lube, every year. The guns are still functional, but they aren't as consistently accurate. Alloy framed pistols will hold up for years, but you'll see degraded accuracy after about a year...25-35k rounds.

The question is what quality you want to "stand up" over thousands of rounds. If you want the most rugged .45ACP pistol, you're best bet is a polymer framed one like the H&K HK45...which should outlast any steel or alloy framed 1911 in regular use
 
The real question should be' "How long will it stand up?"

Action Pistol shooters replace metal framed 1911s, even with constant spring changes and consistent lube, every year. The guns are still functional, but they aren't as consistently accurate. Alloy framed pistols will hold up for years, but you'll see degraded accuracy after about a year...25-35k rounds.

The question is what quality you want to "stand up" over thousands of rounds. If you want the most rugged .45ACP pistol, you're best bet is a polymer framed one like the H&K HK45...which should outlast any steel or alloy framed 1911 in regular use
The bonded part highlights the following: if you can afford the ammo to wear one out, you can afford a new pistol.
 
The bonded part highlights the following: if you can afford the ammo to wear one out, you can afford a new pistol.

I suppose that is true. lol

Thanks everyone for the replies. I'm definitely shopping around for one and will probably make a purchase by the first of the year. I'll let y'all know what ends up coming home with me.
 
I currently have two aluminum alloy framed Colts: a Commander (.38 Super) and a Lightweight Government .45 ACP). I also have a Colt Government (.45 ACP) as well as a Combat Commander (.45 ACP). A far as my carrying preferences go, I like the 1) Commander, (2) the Lightweight Government, (3) the Combat Commander, and (4) the Government.

All four pistols are solid, well built guns, with great slide to frame and barrel to slide fit, along with decent sights and triggers on them. Can't really say I have any immediate concern about the durability of the alloy frame guns.
 
Part of what we like about guns is their permanence. We'd like to think they will last forever, no matter how much we shoot them.
Speaking only for myself, doubt I'll shoot anything enough to actually wear it out. I've a long suffering P365 that is getting to have a high round count, but not really worried about it yet.
A late buddy, who actually killed a Nork in Korea with a 1911, was always of the opinion that the full sized pistol was the best shooting, and most durable version.
Now mouse guns may be another matter; there was an Elsie Pea forum, where some members claimed amazing numbers of rounds through their LCP. Always pretty skeptical of that.
Moon
 
We'd like to think they will last forever, no matter how much we shoot them.

You tend to think of firearms as 'durable goods'... because they are usually well made, with good materials. My first dose of reality came with my brother's S&W 57 .41MAG... we hot-rodded the crap out of it, because we were both young and indestructable... but the pistol was not. We shot it loose and completely out of time... it really needs a trip back to the Mothership. After that, I kind of changed my handloading methods, and tried to not be so hard on the furniture. That may be why I load differently for my alloy Kimber vs the steel one... but, as I mentioned before, and given my age, I'd not likely 'wear it out' anytime soon, before I go to the great casino in the sky.
 
Looking at Commander sized 1911s.
I'm leaning towards the LW model with an alloy frame because I'll end up carrying it OWB in the cooler months where I can wear a sportcoat.

My question is related to durability. I figure the all steel has to hold up better, but how much?
Will the alloy frame models stand up to tens of thousands of rounds?

Just grease the rails and shoot with confidence, as it acts as both a lubricant and a shock dampener.
 
A quote I'll try to use somewhere. :)
Standardize things here for simplicity, but even my .45ACPs are generally 'softball', easier on me, and the furniture. Really not too much that needs to run WFO these days.
Moon

I agree.
I'll probably order a 200 grain mold and shoot standard cast loads for the vast majority of the time.
The older I get, the more I stick to middle of the road, manageable loads.
Haven't had a deer shake one off yet. I don't figure a paper target or worst case scenario, a threat, would shake it off either.
 
I seem to remember reading somewhere an official response from Colt or Kimber stating that the minimum lifespan of an alloy frame is 20K factory rounds.

I believe that. I remember reading an article about a new Czech made auto pistol and the design lifetime was 35,000 rounds. I don't remember if it was alloy, steel, or polymer frame.

According to a fellow match shooter I met at a Regional, who worked for Remington and other firearm companies, by the 1990's firearms are being designed firstly to a price point, and the lifetime expectancy was no longer an "infinite" number of rounds. This is not unreasonable as I have handled hundreds if not thousands of vintage firearms that were almost new, or had been fired maybe 50 rounds. Given the 90% customer is not shooting a firearm out, then Companies decided to make cheaper firearms that would not last as long.

Original military 1911's up through WW2 were made of materials that just met requirements. The lifetime requirement was 6000 rounds. The frames were plain carbon 1035, and the slides 1050. The frame was made of materials that are used for railroad spikes (cheap, cheap, cheap) and lawn mower blades use 1055 steels. Also cheap, cheap, cheap.

PeiHoiv.jpg


posters on 1911 forums claim the lifetime of a vintage GI slide is between 10,000 and 20,000 rounds before they crack.


VNtoBrW.jpg



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Original WW1 barrels had been said to wear out in 5000 rounds with FMJ.

I shot next to AMU shooters who claimed they were putting 5000 to 7000 rounds a month through their 1911's. This is a picture of one.

dAuLD9a.jpg


None of them knew how old the Caspians were. I don't think any of the shooters had been on the time more than seven years. The guy who told me it took three years to shoot out a barrel, must have been on the team, at least three years. According to the AMU I talked to, none of the Caspian slides and frames had cracked, or required refitting. That is amazing. They wore out several sears and hammers a year. Barrels took longer.

The AMU were shooting this ammunition at the time which is about an 800 fps load.

roGzYkw.jpg



A number of 1911 manufacturers use 4140 for slides and frames, TISAS uses a 4140 equivalent. Originally they told me one steel, in print they wrote another. If my notes are correct, Tisas is using 42CRMo4, which is a 4140 equivalent.

These modern alloy steels are not necessarily heat treated hard, they have just enough hardness for wear. The WW1 era 1911's were dead soft, and somewhere in the 1920s the slide was hardened two inches back because the slide noses were fatigue fracturing. Tisas claims to harden their frame and slide prior to machining. This is probably industry practice now, given CNC machining. Warpage is always a risk during heat treatment. Modern steel alloys are superior in all respects compared to the older plain carbon steels used up to WW2. And probably post WW2.

Modern Metallurgy for Engineers, Sisco 1948

Page 231 “compared with carbon steels of the same tensile strength and hardness, heat treated low alloy steels have 30 to 40 percent higher yield strength, 10 to 20 per higher elongation, and 35 to 40 percent higher reduction of area. The impact resistance of the SAE steel is frequently twice that of a carbon steel of the same tensile strength.

1948 Materials Handbook

4140 steel, Oil quenched 1575, tempered 1075 brinell hardeness 286

Charpy Impact 75 ºF 93 ft/lb; -40 ºF 87 ft/lb; -100 ºF 65 ft/lb

Open Hearth 0.31 Carbon .074 Mn, .22 Si, 0.03 AL water quenched 1575, tempered 1000F

Charpy Impact 70 ºF 40 ft/lb, 0 ºF, 20 ft/lb, -100 ºF 4 ft/lb

High Charpy numbers are directly related to long fatigue lifetimes.



Relevant to this discussion is a section from Earl Naramore's book: Principles and Practice of Loading Ammunition 1954

Pg 85, Stored Energy

Stored energy is the energy left in steel when the external force is removed. It varies with the mass of the steel and as the square of the applied force. Every time a rifle is fired, a small amount of stress remains in it. If 50,000 psia is considered a safe pressure and it is increased by 10%, the stored energy increases by 21%. If the pressure is increased 20%, the stored energy increases 44% and if the pressure is run up to 70,000, as often happens with wild cats and maximum loads, the increase in stored energy will be 96%.

Kinds of failures, pg 86

The second kind of failure is classed as a fatigue failure. Most mechanical parts fail as the result of the repeated application of forces that are well below their yield strengths. The repeated stressing, however small, results in the accumulation of stress that concentrates around some stress raiser. When the total stress is high enough, the part breaks. These failures always occur suddenly and without warning. There is no initial expansion or visible cracking to give the least indication of any weakness.

A modern slide and barrel built from alloy steels should outlast the shooter. An aluminum alloy frame, well, I think 20 to 30000 rounds is a reasonable limit. Steel structures can be built thick enough such that the fatigue lifetime will be infinite. (I have no idea if modern steels turn the slide or frame of a 1911 to an infinite stress cycle structure) However, no matter how thick you make an aluminum structure, it will always fatigue fracture given enough stress cycles. If you want to lengthen the lifetime of an alloy frame, shoot light loads. It will still crack given enough rounds, but it will take longer.

Alloy pistols are the carry alot, shoot a little guns.

I have no idea of the lifetime of tupperware guns. Don't want one, and don't have any.
 
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