easy questions about 1911 maintenence

[nutter]

Howdy,

New gun owner here. I've been learning to take down, clean, and reassemble my 1911 from youtube. Its very handy, but as you can imagine not ideal in many ways. I have some very basic questions I need answers to.

1. How much oil in the barrel? Some people say "none! that's dangerous!!!!", and some say "slather it in oil until it drips!" What do you do?

2. If there any way to the gun goes back together if the slide lock is not in correctly? Every video says getting the slide lock back in place through the hole in the little flange in the barrel is difficult. It seemed easy to me, and I've never done this before, so I'm not sure I did it right. The gun went together fine and cycles ammo fine when I rack the slide. Does that mean I can fire it now, or is there any chance I've reassembled it wrong?

Thanks so much for helping.

 

[Jason_G]

New gun owner here. I've been learning to take down, clean, and reassemble my 1911 from youtube.

Be careful about the Youtube vids. Some are pretty good, and some show guys doing things like dropping the slide on an empty chamber, and other things that you would not want to do to your personal firearm.

1. How much oil in the barrel? Some people say "none! that's dangerous!!!!", and some say "slather it in oil until it drips!" What do you do?

Yeah, some folks say "none", but I always run a wet patch through it before putting it up. A very light coat will not hurt anything. Having it dripping with oil is probably not good, but I've yet to see a barrel blow up from oil on the bore.

2. If there any way to the gun goes back together if the slide lock is not in correctly? Every video says getting the slide lock back in place through the hole in the little flange in the barrel is difficult. It seemed easy to me, and I've never done this before, so I'm not sure I did it right.

The only tricky part about putting the slide stop back in (aside from avoiding the idiot mark the first time) is getting the stop through the link. It's really not that it's hard to do, but some folks who are first time 1911 owners and have always had linkless actions will try in vain to get the link to line up so that the slide stop goes in the link and slide notch simultaneously. The "trick" is to put the slide stop in just far enough to get it into the link, then move the slide until the notches line up.

The gun went together fine and cycles ammo fine when I rack the slide. Does that mean I can fire it now, or is there any chance I've reassembled it wrong?

If you have to pull against the force of the recoil spring to rack the slide, then you successfully captured the slide stop with the link. Otherwise, the slide would just slip freely back and forth on the frame.
If it cycles fine you probably put it back together correctly. Dry fire it a few times to be sure.

Jason

 

[dmazur]

I believe there are two ways to incorrectly install the slide lock:

1. The slide lock is inserted behind the link and lower lug. The barrel is not connected to the frame if this is done and can slide forward independently of the slide position. In fact, the slide will generally come off the frame while you're trying to install the recoil spring plug.

2. It is possible to insert the slide lock forward of the lower lug with the link in an "up" position. The barrel will not pivot and will not unlock if this is done, so you won't be able to get the slide lock lined up with the notch in the slide as the slide won't move to the rear. If you have a full-length guide rod, it will be protruding approx. 1/4" from the end of the slide as it is hitting the link.

However, as previously noted, if you got it assembled correctly, the slide will be attached to the frame and you will be able to cycle the action and dry fire it.

I don't believe it's possible to assemble it incorrectly and have it function. The two incorrect possibilities are described above, and the third way is the correct way.

 

[Oro]

As a new 1911 owner, and since you are asking about the slide stop, I some good advice is how to avoid applying the "idiot mark" to your frame. The "idiot mark" is a arc inscribed in the blue from the back of the trigger housing up towards the slide stop lock notch that comes from pivoting the slide stop in or out while it is under tension.

1) When removing it, pull it straight out.
2) When installing it, do the same, or carefully keep it away from the frame if you pivot it up into place.

Here's an example, it is faint in this photo, but it helps you get the idea. This was made by a previous owner (of course!) on a gun I own:

 

[OleCodger]

Idiot Mark.....

Golly, I wish I had known about the idiot mark! My purty new 1911 came with one from the factory (yeah, really!!!!).......

 

[nutter]

Thanks so much!

 

[Deanimator]

As far as oiling the barrel (or any other part), I use a patch wet with Clenzoil to oil the barrel, then I run a dry patch through (or a dry rag over other surfaces) to get the excess. Clenzoil leaves a film that prevents corrosion. The gun doesn't need to be dripping with oil in order to be protected.

 

[rcmodel]

+1

Light oil on a patch - just enough to protect the bore from rust.

"slather it in oil until it drips!"

Really now!
Any excess is just going to run out inside your holster & ruin the leather.

As noted, you can't put a 1911 together wrong and get it to stay together, or work.
If you could, about a gazillion GI's would have discovered how long ago!
The gun is GI-proof, and that's as good as it gets!

rc

 

[MICHAEL T]

All my carry pistols 1911 mainly get a coat of Wax also It helps protect the finish from scratches and wet weather or body .
I use Butcher's Boston Amber past wax. But any good way will do. Just make sure doesn't have any rubbing compound Many car wax have to help with small scratches,You want just WAX Duck hunters did this for years. It does help protect Blue or stainless. Doesn't affect relieabilty or shooting