EN Santa Barbara 1858 - Recommended Mainspring

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ClemBert

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Anyone on here with a EN Santa Barbara change out the crazy overpowered mongo factory mainspring of their 1858. I'm afraid if I actually tested the mainspring tension using my trigger pull gauge I'd break it. It's crazy strong...seriously!

If you swapped it out I'm curious if a Uberti or a Pietta mainspring works best. Or, did you just twirl the mainspring screw? Or, did you break out the Dremel tool and thin the width of it out?
 
Original 1858 Remingtons had significantly stronger mainsprings than their current clones be it Pietta or Uberti. See:
Older manufacturers like Santa Barbara, ASM or ASP remained true to the original specification and used a spring of similar strength as originals. The best route is to lighten the tension screw as much as it will go and allow a proper operation of the gun. If this is still to strong, continue reading further.

In a cartridge gun, mainspring must be strong enough to just set off the primer. In a cap and ball revolver mainspring must not only set off the cap but also put enough pressure on the hammer so that it will not move under backpressure. In my experience lack of reliability of current percussion revolvers in mainly due to too weak mainsprings. If the hammer moves back under backpressure, the caps are dislodged and at some point they WILL jam the action in both colts and remingtons. See:

In the XIX century, the revolvers were made with a simple soldier in mind and the gun HAD to be close to 100% reliable. That was achieved with heavy mainsprings that prevented caps from jamming the action. Nowadays, these guns are no longer intended for warfighting but mainly target shooting so the springs were weakened for easier & more comfortable operation but reliability suffered GREATLY. Mind you, in XIX century cap jams were RARE in colts, that certainly is no the case today.

That being said, I highly suggest you keep the original mainspring the way it was intended and buy a Uberti spare spring and fit it to your gun. This way you will always be able to return to the original, RELIABLE configuration. You can of course lighten the spring by removing steel from the sides of the spring (never remove from the front/back) but it will be irreversible and your reliability will suffer GREATLY.
 
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Somebody, do you know if anyone makes stronger mainsprings for Colt and Remington copies
 
That being said, I highly suggest you keep the original mainspring the way it was intended and buy a Uberti spare spring and fit it to your gun. This way you will always be able to return to the original, RELIABLE configuration. You can of course lighten the spring by removing steel from the sides of the spring (never remove from the front/back) but it will be irreversible and your reliability will suffer GREATLY.

Thank you for your response. Putting aside the factory original spring and substituting a modern Italian mainspring was my first choice. I always liked the option of putting it back the way I found it most desirable. If cap jam becomes a problem I could always put the orginal SB spring back in. I appreciate SB being as true as possible to the original design in function and appearance but using modern steel. I take it that Uberti is closer than Pietta with regard to overall fitness based on your recommendation?

BTW, I've heard about common complaints about the hammer blowback on the reproduction 1862 pocket models.
 
ClemBert, I'm pretty sure a Pietta Remington will be a drop in.

As far as reliability is concerned, it all has to do with unnecessary internal forces the hammer has to overcome. With the ham-handed, crude parts in the reproduction revolvers, it was easier to remain profitable just to "overpower" the hammer than to make more refined action parts . . . as witnessed today by Uberti's most excellent parts and lighter main springs. I just had a conversation with a customer that has won 2 State championships and two international championships with a pair of Remington's I set up for him 3 yrs ago. His revolvers have a 4 lb. hammer draw (my standard for cap guns). The action of course is sprung with coil torsion springs and heavily massaged parts. My point being, a cartridge revolver doesn't necessarily need more than a 3 1/2 lb hammer draw to pop a primer and likewise, a cap doesn't need more than 4 lbs . . . certainly not 6,7, or ,8 + lbs.
With a competition revolver in a timed event, moving a 4 lb hammer is much more conducive for winning than a hammer that takes twice the effort to move. And, reliability is a priority!! It's true that the originals were made mostly for military. That's not what our reproductions are needed for today and I would submit that competition revolvers today see much more action than most all of the originals saw. Therefore, why would anybody rather fight with their revolver just to "enjoy" it when they could handle them just as easily as a cartridge revolver . . . and just as reliable?


Mike
 
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Quick question for Mike, I ran across a Uberti Dragoon, new in the box, with a 3 lb hammer spring pull measured with a small pull scale. Should it be replaced?
 
Wow!! If it ain't cracked you might use it with a conversion cyl . If it's gonna be a cap gun, definitely replace it!

I've found that the V springs in Walkers and Whitney's end up at a 4 lb. draw after all is done with the action setup which is nice that they stay a stock item!

Mike
 
Thought I'd show y'all a comparison of the mainsprings in 1858s manufactured by Pietta vs Uberti vs EN Santa Barbara. The most noticeable thing is the huge "bow" in the EN Santa Barbara compared to the Italians. If you were to flatten out all three mainsprings we'd see how much longer the EN Santa Barbara mainspring must be. I also took some quick measurements of the thickness of the mainsprings in the middle of them.

0.064" Pietta
0.060" Uberti
0.064" EN Santa Barbara

Compare Manufacturers.jpg

Mainspring Compare.jpg

Pietta Mainspring.jpg

Uberti Mainspring.jpg

Santa Barbara Mainspring.jpg
 
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