Entry Level O/U

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Any suggestions on an entry level O/U to be used exclusively for for sporting clays? I know that the "buy a used browning or beretta" is coming my way. When it does I would appreciate a model suggestion and possibly a good source.

Thanks!
 
How often and how much are you going to shoot? If enough, then your own admission of the Beretta or Browning is your own best advice - buy once, cry once. I have a Browning Gti, now 20 years old with around 300,000 rounds through it. Still works fine, put about $100 worth of gunsmithing into it (new firing pins, springs) at 90,000 -trouble free since.
Now shooting a Beretta A400 gas gun. Have only had it about 3 months and it has about 5000 through it so far - works great.

If your budget doesn't quite allow for a new or used B O/U gun, take a serious look at the Berettas (390, 391, A400), Winchesters, Fabarms, or even a Remington 1100 gas guns. Work great and usually about 1/3 the price of a new O/U.

Don't hinder yourself with a cheap O/U or a brand name field gun. If this is a sporting clays gun get the heavier target model as that weight will help you with recoil mitigation. You'll also want 30 or 32 inch barrel whether gas or O/U for better swing dynamics. A good sporting gun should be 8#+ in the weight arena and just slightly muzzle heavy

VVVVVVVVVVV - read that sig line and believe it
 
Most "entry level" guns aren't kept be the owner very long. The buyer either moves up to something better or moves out of the sport and sells the gun.

That is why you should purchase a good gun with high resale value and demand in the marketplace.

That is also why Browning and Beretta are most often recommended.

Specifics: a Citori or 686, longer barrels are in the most demand, but good deals can be found on shorter barrels. I would go with at least 28" unless you find a screaming deal on a 26" gun (I picked up a 686 Onyx with 26" barrels for $700 a couple of years ago). You may also find a nice used Superposed, 685, BL series or earlier gun, but you should know what you are looking at when evaluating these guns.
 
I've tried a Stoeger, and sold it after less than a dozen range sessions due to mechanical unreliability (poor ejection, loose hinge, occasional trigger issues). I borrowed a Mossberg from a friend, and it did OK but he was on his third set of lockwork due to small parts breakage in the action (firing pins/hammers, I seem to recall). The CZ branded Huglu's and the Yildiz seem to do OK in the dove fields but I know of nobody that's successfully regularly used them for range work. The recoil on the Yildiz is pretty stout, and the stocks on them and the CZ's don't fit me well AT ALL.

Given all of this, I have been well cured of any fascination with inexpensive double-guns for clay work, (especially ATA Trap!) and would suggest that a Beretta 300 Uplander or Benelli Montefeltro is likely to prove far easier to shoot well, for far less money, than a double gun of equal quality. These semi-guns provide the ability to be fitted in drop and cast and LOP as shipped, unlike any double short of a competition gun, and provide the same fast second shot with (in my experience) no loss of potential reliability.

Just a thought...
 
You may also find a nice used Superposed, 685, BL series or earlier gun, but you should know what you are looking at when evaluating these guns.

ESPECIALLY true with the Superposed, many of the 12 gauge varieties can be had for about $1500 or so - but they had an era of salt (you don't want that), will come with fixed chokes (my personal favorite and they can either be opened up or possibly fitted by Briley for thin walls, but then you are at a new gun price), but their barrels are arguably some of the best ever made from a thinness, handling, balance perspective.

If you have been shooting sporting, look at what others are shooting, not necessarily the brand, but the characteristics - you'll see 30 or 32 inch barrels, you'll see gas guns with shims allowing for better personal fit, you will see folks adding weights of various types to get better balance along with more weight for recoil reduction, and you'll see a majority of folks shooting nothing more than a 1 ounce load. Ask folks about their guns and you will have folks offering theirs for you to try - do so, and try as many as you can. Even if you fall head over heels for a 12K Kreighoff because of the way it fits and feels, and you can't afford it ...(for now), you will at least have an understanding of what characteristics to look for in a gun you can afford, a certain balance, a certain type of stock, maybe a particular recoil reducing system or forearm design, etc.

The fun is in the search, and if you buy a quality gun to begin with, your enjoyment and success will happen sooner; if you decide to get out of the game, you will be able to recoup most, if not all of your money spent on the gun. That Gti I mentioned above can be sold for more than I paid for it, thus I had the use of the gun all these years for free and I wasn't shooting something that I had to worry about breaking on me at the wrong moment - not something that will happen with a Stoeger, Yildiz or other cheap O/U.
 
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The Ruger Red Label is back, and supposedly has some mechanical and handling upgrades over the original. Not much feedback out there yet, but made in America and backed by Ruger, I would take a chance on one if I was looking for a new entry level O/U.
 
I had one of the originals in 28 gauge - the one they "supposedly" got right - they didn't.

If it were me, before I shelled out 1K on it, I would wait a year to see how well they fixed their reliability issues. Browning and Beretta are known quality guns
 
I didn't think that the OP had spending a grand or better in mind, but perhaps that's my bias created by all of the 'tell me how to find a cheap double gun' threads. I may have completely misunderstood the OP. :)

If more than a grand is available for spendin' and a double gun is a definite choice (as opposed to a quality semi), then a used Browning Citori or Beretta 686 would work well if you can find just the right deal. Most of the used 686s and Citoris that I see are selling for around $1200 or so at the cheapest. Within the Browning and Beretta lines, I tend to gravitate towards the field-oriented guns and not the ported/long barrel skeet guns. That means, for example, that I trend towards guns like the Citori White Lightnings and 525s within the Browning line and such and less so the XS series. Then again, I am a casual Sporting Clays guy and not hardcore about the game.
 
Check out the Mossberg Silver Reserve. Comes in all gauges. They are beautiful entry level guns, but I don't know about their accuracy.

They look fine. However, I've never heard anyone who actually owned one have a single good thing to say about them.

Save until you can at least buy a Lanber. They have a good reputation and don't break the bank.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=376276312
 
Guys, Excellent (and I mean excellent) advice from all. Seems a couple of guys here really know there shotguns. Say I went the Superposed route, oneounceload made the point that they have fixed chokes. How would I go about looking into this as a viable option?

Thanks!
 
The Superposeds with 28 or 30 inch barrels (and try to get the 30 if at all possible for sporting clays) would most typically be choked M/F or IM/F - great for live pigeons, American trap, International trap, but lousy for skeet and somewhat too tight for US sporting.
Assuming you have found one like that, Briley in Houston is the go-to company if it is possible to install thin wall chokes - which will depend on just how thick the barrels' walls are. If you just want to open up the fixed chokes from IM/F to something more suitable for sporting like LM/M or LM/IM or some such, Briley can do it, but other folks like Mike Orlen in Mass. is also excellent and usually somewhat cheaper than Briley (In the choke tube world, Briley is the 800# gorilla in the room).

The point is this - just about ANY fixed choke gun can either have choke tubes installed or chokes opened, so if you find a screaming deal on a quality gun that fits you but it has fixed chokes, don't let that dissuade you from possibly getting the gun. Unless you fit the typical "average" size (whatever THAT is), you will most likely be tweaking something here or there anyway - just like many do with handguns and rifles. The key is to know how much tweaking and how much added cost versus buying something new/newer that doesn't need a lot of tweaking - buying a $1200 older shotgun that you then need to sink another $1200 into isn't as good as buying a 2-2.5K new gun that doesn't need the work - if you get what I am saying

For most of us, spending $1500+ on a gun, new or used, is somewhat spendy and requires some good research, so take your time, try as many as you can from friends and strangers at your local sporting clays clubs and narrow your search

Good luck
 
You will be better off spending the same money on a quality semi than an entry level double. I could buy 2-3 quality semi's with the money I lost over the years trying to make do with entry level doubles. I finally got smart and did just that.
 
Thanks for all of the help guys. I am going to stick with o/u because, as little as I know about shotguns, I like the way they swing.
 
I have a Mossberg 410 OU. It shoots a little high (both barrels). At 25 yds the bottom half of the pattern covers the target. This is an original Silver Reserve. The New Silver Reserve II is supposed to be a very good entry level gun.
MossbergSR.jpg
 
As oneounce pointed out, Briley is one of the leading choke companies but you may need someone to cosign. I had Ballistic Specialties in Batesville AR put their excellent Angle Ported Chokes in. 20ga Beretta. It was $100@ to thread the barrels and $50 per choke tube. I had $450 in choke work and this was in 1994.
 
I picked up a new style Ruger red label 12 gauge with 30 inch barrels a few weeks ago and have been very pleased with it. I have put about 1,000 rounds through it at the local trap ranges so far, and it`s working well for me. The trap bug bit me late this summer and that was my choice for an entry-level over under. YMMV, but I have not regretted the decision yet. Best of luck whatever you decide to get!
 
It shoots a little high (both barrels)

Is it shooting high because you are seeing rib when you mount to shoot? If so, you have a stock fit issue. If you can look at a spot on the wall, close your eyes and while closed, mount the gun then open your eyes and you see no rib and it is pointing (NOT aiming) where you were looking, then the stock fit is very close. If you do that and see rib, you will always be shooting too high and the stock needs some adjustment
 
oneounceload Quote:
It shoots a little high (both barrels)

Is it shooting high because you are seeing rib when you mount to shoot? If so, you have a stock fit issue. If you can look at a spot on the wall, close your eyes and while closed, mount the gun then open your eyes and you see no rib and it is pointing (NOT aiming) where you were looking, then the stock fit is very close. If you do that and see rib, you will always be shooting too high and the stock needs some adjustment


Thanks for the tip 'oneounceload'; I'll try that. It may be just as you said. I've shot a pump all my life, so I may have to break a bad habit. :banghead: Or do as you suggest. Find out how to adjust the stock. :)

p.s. 7:25am 11/22/13 : I tried that out. First with my O/U. I saw lots of RIB. Then with my .20ga Fox SxS. All I saw was the Gold Bead at the end of the bbl. Amazing. Thanks ool :)
 
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I personally would not add screw in chokes to a Superposed, it would be like putting screw in chokes on a classic American side by side - they may be functional but just don't belong there (this is just my personal opinion).

I think you would be them opening them up to improved cyl/mod or improved mod. Less expensive too.

Be careful - there are plenty of shot out old Superposed guns that have seen way too much use or abuse over the years. you really need to know what you are looking at to make sure you are not inheriting someone else's problems.
 
I purchased a Spartan O/U for my entry level gun, and it was good for what I was looking for. They are licensed by Remington and manufactured in Russia. It was very reasonably priced, and shot well. I missed the same number of clays with that as I did with others. I'm thinking it was not the gun. My only real complaint, was that it appeared that the metal was not properly prepped prior to bluing, and after awhile I was getting some small rust spots coming through. Because of that, I traded it in on a A 5.
 
lanber, they make seriously fantastic OU's. not like all that turkish trash out there. very fine spanish gun. very big brand in europe and well respected, not so much here in the usa as they never made a big push in this market so most people dismiss them.
 
Same problem with SKB's - great guns, but no viable long-term support structure left. That's why the B-guns get most of the recommendations - not only do the lineups have something to please most anybody (assuming that the buyer can clear the cost of entry hurdle) but they're both well supported in the US by the manufacturer.

Personally, I think that there are few field shotgunning questions that can't be answered with 'SKB 585'. :D But I won't recommend to folk that they go buy one off Gunbroker simply because I don't want to see their face when the gun needs service and they realize what few options that they have.....
 
Actually, GU in Omaha has all of the parts said to be well over a 10-20 year supply and they have (supposedly) inked a deal to have the SKBs made again - I believe by one of the better Turkish makers
 
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