EuroArms Remmie Cylinder/Nipples

[Seiyoujin]

Well, after destroying 1 nipple wrench, 1 knuckle, and my ego, I come to y'all again to ask for help. I have an old EuroArms (A.S.P.) New Model Army that I was hoping to get out to the range soon, but in checking it over, and trying to get the nipples off, I ran into removal issues with 2/6 of them. Of the 2 frozen nipples, 1 already had rounded corners that also made seating a wrench extremely difficult, and I know that one's not coming out in one piece. For the other, I've tried heat, Ballistol, tapping it with a hammer, firing a cap through it, and just about everything else I could think of with the tools I have, but I was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions before I bring out the drill.

Now ideally, I'd like to replace all 6 anyways, since the stock nipples are all different lengths, shapes, and sizes. 2 of them want to use no. 11 caps, 3 want to use no. 10, 1 doesn't seem to like either, and they're all kind of misshapen. I should probably actually compare the 2, but I think the nipples are the same size as my Lyman (Also A.S.P.) 1860 Army, so I probably know where to get new ones. But, I was also wondering if anyone knew if either an Uberti, or Pietta Remmie percussion cylinder would fit without much issue, and if either the Kirst, or another conversion cylinder would.

Thanks!

 

[Black Jack Shellac]

I made a 1/4" drive x 3/16" socket into a nipple wrench. Cut and ground a deep enough notch to fit over the nipple flats. The 3/16" is small enough for it to also fit into the recess the nipple is in. In you case with already damaged nipples. I would make the notch small so you would have to drive the socket over the nipple. Hold the cylinder on two shafts held in a bench vice so you don't crush the cylinder. With that socket on the nipple and 1/4" drive wrench you have a lot of power. This worked for me on my clunk 58 Remmy and they were really stuck too.
Black Jack Shellac

 

[Seiyoujin]

I made a 1/4" drive x 3/16" socket into a nipple wrench. Cut and ground a deep enough notch to fit over the nipple flats. The 3/16" is small enough for it to also fit into the recess the nipple is in. In you case with already damaged nipples. I would make the notch small so you would have to drive the socket over the nipple. Hold the cylinder on two shafts held in a bench vice so you don't crush the cylinder. With that socket on the nipple and 1/4" drive wrench you have a lot of power. This worked for me on my clunk 58 Remmy and they were really stuck too.
Black Jack Shellac

Will try both suggestions, probably in combo. with some heat to help loosen everything up. Hopefully, that will at least let me keep the better one as a spare, versus having to drill them both out. Thanks!

 

[Zygodactyl]

I had the same problem with an 1860 army that hadn't had them out in 50 years. I had destroyed all my commercial nipple wrenches trying. I finally bought one like Black Jack described. I soaked them in Kroil and finally with that wrench I was able to break them free. Don't over tighten when you replace them and use anti seize on the threads.

 

[Ephraim Kibbey]

Worst comes to worst, make the stuck one your "Safety!"

 

[44 Dave]

When you get them out you will need 6x.75 mm, but they are shorter than Pietta.
I use Treso AMPCO M6 x .75 x .500 Long
Fits Euroarms Revolver

 

[SomebodyMakeRiderRepro]

Using this method I've managed to remove even the most stubborn nipples. You might want to give it a try.

 

[Seiyoujin]

Using this method I've managed to remove even the most stubborn nipples. You might want to give it a try.

Am I understanding correctly that that liquid in the end was kerosene? Either way, seems like a plan! I never thought to, but I might borrow a few pipettes from work since we do have a few 100 more than we need.

I had the same problem with an 1860 army that hadn't had them out in 50 years. I had destroyed all my commercial nipple wrenches trying. I finally bought one like Black Jack described. I soaked them in Kroil and finally with that wrench I was able to break them free. Don't over tighten when you replace them and use anti seize on the threads.

Do you remember where you bought it from by any chance? If they're on-sale somewhere, especially for pretty cheap, I might just buy one to save myself the trouble.

Worst comes to worst, make the stuck one your "Safety!"

I see you're a fellow glass half full kind of man.

When you get them out you will need 6x.75 mm, but they are shorter than Pietta.
I use Treso AMPCO M6 x .75 x .500 Long
Fits Euroarms Revolver

The good news there is that means I already have a full set! The Lyman/A.S.P. 1860 Army still needs more work, so I can just yank the set out of there, get some more for it later, and have the Remmie up, and running.

Thanks everybody for your help! If that's all it takes to get this thing in working order, I'll make sure to post some pictures when I officially join the 1858 cult... Er, club.

 

[Navy Six 2]

A couple of things I ran into. I bought a set of the above mentioned Tresso(M6x.75x.500) to use on a Euroarms Rogers &Spencer and two of them were a trifle short and wouldn't set off a cap. The difference was only .002 on the short ones but it was enough to make a difference. I installed the Pietta sized Slix-Shots and have had no problems.
I just purchased another used Rogers & Spencer that had been neglected with little cleaning effort and couldn't get the nipples out after a week of soaking in Kroil. I had previously modified a Craftsman 1/4 in drive 3/16 deep well socket and tried to use it on this gun and actually bent it out of shape! I finally had success with the following three devices:
1. a small impact driver
2. Ted Cash cylinder fixture
3. Ted Cash ratcheting nipple wrench
The cylinder fixture holds the cylinder in place allowing torque to be placed on the nipples, but I believe it was the small impact driver that finally made the difference. The Ted Cash ratcheting nipple wrench is, in my opinion, the best one to have.

 

[Zygodactyl]

Do you remember where you bought it from by any chance? If they're on-sale somewhere, especially for pretty cheap, I might just buy one to save myself the trouble.

It was a couple of years ago from an e-bay vendor. He made them himself out of a 1/4 inch socket extension with a hardened nipple wrench grafted to it. I haven't seen them recently.

 

[Seiyoujin]

It was a couple of years ago from an e-bay vendor. He made them himself out of a 1/4 inch socket extension with a hardened nipple wrench grafted to it. I haven't seen them recently.

I can't say I've seen them either, but I'll definitely keep my eye out. I'm always surprised by the things you see pop up on e-bay.

A couple of things I ran into. I bought a set of the above mentioned Tresso(M6x.75x.500) to use on a Euroarms Rogers &Spencer and two of them were a trifle short and wouldn't set off a cap. The difference was only .002 on the short ones but it was enough to make a difference. I installed the Pietta sized Slix-Shots and have had no problems.
I just purchased another used Rogers & Spencer that had been neglected with little cleaning effort and couldn't get the nipples out after a week of soaking in Kroil. I had previously modified a Craftsman 1/4 in drive 3/16 deep well socket and tried to use it on this gun and actually bent it out of shape! I finally had success with the following three devices:
1. a small impact driver
2. Ted Cash cylinder fixture
3. Ted Cash ratcheting nipple wrench
The cylinder fixture holds the cylinder in place allowing torque to be placed on the nipples, but I believe it was the small impact driver that finally made the difference. The Ted Cash ratcheting nipple wrench is, in my opinion, the best one to have.

I've used Tresos before with pretty good results, but I don't see any reason not to try some Slix nipples on this one. I've mostly used factory, or fairly similar replacements (Mostly from TotW), but it does seem like a lot of people really love those things.

That cylinder fixture does look pretty promising since I haven't been able to find the right size rods to throw in a vice, so I guess I'll order one up while I'm letting the cylinder soak some more. I actually already had one of the ratcheting nipple wrenches (And a few other things) in my cart anyways, so I'll go ahead, and send that through. A few more days can't hurt with that thing being stuck together for who-knows-how-long.

As always, thanks for the info., and suggestions! I'll make sure to post an update as soon as I get everything together, and take another crack at it.

 

[44 Dave]

I just use ward wood dowels the shear strength is more than I would put on a nipple wrench
Another trick is to have your "fixture" on a drill press or some way to hold some down pressure to keep the wrench from climbing.

 

[Rex in OTZ]

For a few years I just left the nipples alone and didnt remove them.
I was using Pyrodex P and CCI #10 caps.
Eventually I got the nipples removed but was no snall feat.
I had a old TC brand nipple wrench and promply destroyed it.
I Thought I was buying Ted Cash quality product and their nipple wrench was as much runny cat nuggets as the TC bar of room temprature butter and that biginner set of chinaman tools Id bought out of Shotgun News back in 1990's, only decent thing was the powder flask after fixing that.

https://www.firearmstalk.com/thread...to-fit-and-work-properly.122747/#post-1843007

 

[Zygodactyl]

After reading this thread again. I remembered today I had another stubborn cylinder that I couldn't get one of the nipples out of. Even my good wrench and 1/4 drive ratchet was beginning to slip on it. I put two rifle cases in my vice to act a holding fixture. I have copper jaws on the vice. I then lowered the cylinder onto it and soaked it with Kroil. I have a handheld impact driver that I put a 1/2 inch to 1/4 inch adapter on it. Using the heavy duty nipple wrench with the 1/4 drive, I gave it a couple of whacks with a brass hammer and it loosened up. Thanks Navy six 2 for the suggestion of using the impact driver. I've had the impact driver since the 70's for use on my motorcycle but never thought to use it on a cap and ball pistol.

 

[Don Van Winkle]

Well, after destroying 1 nipple wrench, 1 knuckle, and my ego, I come to y'all again to ask for help. I have an old EuroArms (A.S.P.) New Model Army that I was hoping to get out to the range soon, but in checking it over, and trying to get the nipples off, I ran into removal issues with 2/6 of them. Of the 2 frozen nipples, 1 already had rounded corners that also made seating a wrench extremely difficult, and I know that one's not coming out in one piece. For the other, I've tried heat, Ballistol, tapping it with a hammer, firing a cap through it, and just about everything else I could think of with the tools I have, but I was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions before I bring out the drill.

Now ideally, I'd like to replace all 6 anyways, since the stock nipples are all different lengths, shapes, and sizes. 2 of them want to use no. 11 caps, 3 want to use no. 10, 1 doesn't seem to like either, and they're all kind of misshapen. I should probably actually compare the 2, but I think the nipples are the same size as my Lyman (Also A.S.P.) 1860 Army, so I probably know where to get new ones. But, I was also wondering if anyone knew if either an Uberti, or Pietta Remmie percussion cylinder would fit without much issue, and if either the Kirst, or another conversion cylinder would.

Thanks!

For some reason one of the nipples on my 1858 Remington Revolver stuck like stink on you know what. Well I used my wrench that I got at Bass Pro and parts of it snapped off. I did take it to my work bench and re-tooled it so I essentially had a new one. Well, same thing; a broken wrench. I ordered one from Track of the Wolf and it took that stubborn nipple off right quick. They advertised hardened steel and they were not kidding! The old one is now resting at the bottom of my garbage bin and the new one is tucked in my cleaning kit. I didn't want to try to take one of my ratchet sockets and make a new one yet so for the 8-9 bucks I paid was well worth the money. When I get my workbench all set up with my reloading stuff and such for my BP needs maybe...............