I recently purchased two different types of leather holsters. Both types are new and stiff. One type is “rough as a cob†on the inside and the other is smoother but still abrasive. A little holster wear is to be expected, but I hesitate to completely ruin the finish on my pistols. I’ve tried soaking the roughest one with spray silicon and inserting/withdrawing a plastic wrapped pistol repeatedly as was suggested by a former LEO, but saw little results. Is there a product and/or method that I can use that won’t stain clothing and/or dissolve the pistol’s finish? How can I soften these holsters both inside and out so that they don’t eat the finish from my pistols? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Excessive Holster Wear
- Thread starter 19112XS
- Start date
- Status
One thing you could try is leaving the plastic-wrapped pistol in the holster for 72 hours. This may serve to accomodate the fit a little better. Also, I don't know how much experience you have with leather holsters and your carry handguns. Is it a possibility you are overly concerned about wear to the pistol? Again, I don't mean to label your experience but if it's your first time it may be as simple as relaxing and not worrying so much about holster wear. Last, if all else should fail, switch to kydex. Good luck.
Andrew Wyatt
Member
There's a reason why it's called "wearing a pistol". relax. the finish is the least important part of the gun.
saaman
Member
Mold the holster to your gun. Soak the leather holster in water, unload your gun and wrap it in plastic, put it in the holster and dry it in front of a fan.
Black Majik
Member
You can also put masking tape along the contact points of the gun. 
dfariswheel
Member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2002
- Messages
- 6,660
I used to do custom holsters, and the LAST thing you want is a soft holster.
One reason older guns have little or no finish left is because they were carried in the "one size fits all", soft, flabby holster of the day.
Leather, and ANY other holster material will abrade the gun's finish, and there's little that can be done about it.
What causes the wear is contact between the holster and the gun. The more contact there is, the more finish can be worn off.
Holsters are abrasive, and a soft holster which contacts the gun over a wider area will wear more than a hard, stiff holster that only contacts some areas.
A soft holster allows the gun to move and shift around as you move.
When the holster gets dirty inside, it is in effect, turned into a sandpaper lined bag.
MOST holsters are used far past their service life.
Although a holster may LOOK virtually brand new, when the holster has stretched out enough to allow the gun to start shifting, it's shot, and should be replaced.
Plastic holsters cause faster wear to the finish, BUT, the wear is ONLY on the contact areas, and in a good model it doesn't wear anywhere else but on those areas.
Over time, a plastic holster will cause LESS wear than leather.
Leather and nylon holsters wear over a wider and wider area as they stretch with use.
Some holsters are WORSE than standard leather models.
Holsters lined with sueded leather will wear the finish faster due to the soft suede making more contact, AND the tendency for the suede to collect dirt and become even more abrasive.
The worse holsters are the "one size fits all" holsters made from cheap, flabby leather, and holsters someone mistakenly over-treats with leather softening products.
A good holster, in serviceable condition should be fairly stiff, and the gun should "snap" into place. Once in, the gun should NOT shift or move.
When the holster is no longer in this condition, even though it still LOOKS great, it's worn out.
Last, contrary to popular belief, leather cannot be "shrunk" back to a good fit.
The ONLY leather that actually shrinks is Rawhide.
If your new holster is TOO tight, either break it in by wearing it around the house for a few days, practicing your draw (which is a good idea to train your muscle memory) OR wrap the gun in a layer of wax paper, put it in the gun and leave it in over night.
If it's still too tight, add another layer of wax paper and repeat.
Soaking a new, quality holster in water or alcohol is NOT a good idea, since this usually stretches the leather TOO much, taking a considerable amount of service life out of it.
Bottom line: If you don't want your gun's finish worn, don't ever put it in a holster. Better still, put it in a glass case and don't even touch it.
One reason older guns have little or no finish left is because they were carried in the "one size fits all", soft, flabby holster of the day.
Leather, and ANY other holster material will abrade the gun's finish, and there's little that can be done about it.
What causes the wear is contact between the holster and the gun. The more contact there is, the more finish can be worn off.
Holsters are abrasive, and a soft holster which contacts the gun over a wider area will wear more than a hard, stiff holster that only contacts some areas.
A soft holster allows the gun to move and shift around as you move.
When the holster gets dirty inside, it is in effect, turned into a sandpaper lined bag.
MOST holsters are used far past their service life.
Although a holster may LOOK virtually brand new, when the holster has stretched out enough to allow the gun to start shifting, it's shot, and should be replaced.
Plastic holsters cause faster wear to the finish, BUT, the wear is ONLY on the contact areas, and in a good model it doesn't wear anywhere else but on those areas.
Over time, a plastic holster will cause LESS wear than leather.
Leather and nylon holsters wear over a wider and wider area as they stretch with use.
Some holsters are WORSE than standard leather models.
Holsters lined with sueded leather will wear the finish faster due to the soft suede making more contact, AND the tendency for the suede to collect dirt and become even more abrasive.
The worse holsters are the "one size fits all" holsters made from cheap, flabby leather, and holsters someone mistakenly over-treats with leather softening products.
A good holster, in serviceable condition should be fairly stiff, and the gun should "snap" into place. Once in, the gun should NOT shift or move.
When the holster is no longer in this condition, even though it still LOOKS great, it's worn out.
Last, contrary to popular belief, leather cannot be "shrunk" back to a good fit.
The ONLY leather that actually shrinks is Rawhide.
If your new holster is TOO tight, either break it in by wearing it around the house for a few days, practicing your draw (which is a good idea to train your muscle memory) OR wrap the gun in a layer of wax paper, put it in the gun and leave it in over night.
If it's still too tight, add another layer of wax paper and repeat.
Soaking a new, quality holster in water or alcohol is NOT a good idea, since this usually stretches the leather TOO much, taking a considerable amount of service life out of it.
Bottom line: If you don't want your gun's finish worn, don't ever put it in a holster. Better still, put it in a glass case and don't even touch it.
Thanks to all who have contributed so far, especially to dfariswheel for the insider info. Other contributions are welcome.
I have experience with holster wear, but am unaccustomed to a great amount of it in a short time. The Bianchi and formed Alessi used with a now retired BHP had less surface impact over a longer period of time than the new Galco and surplus flap for the “newbies†have had.
Wear is a normal consequence of carrying. Excessive wear is..well..excessive.
Edited to add the s.
I have experience with holster wear, but am unaccustomed to a great amount of it in a short time. The Bianchi and formed Alessi used with a now retired BHP had less surface impact over a longer period of time than the new Galco and surplus flap for the “newbies†have had.
Wear is a normal consequence of carrying. Excessive wear is..well..excessive.
Edited to add the s.
Last edited:
ClarkEMyers
Member
I do believe the answer is spelled Alessi with 2 "s"
Going back to say Chic Gaylord's Handgunner's Guide and before there were lots of tricks when many holsters were nicely cut and sewn but not often "boned" (the bone might be plastic toothbrush handle or what have you) so that precise fitting to a particular gun could be usefully done by the user. Many of the tricks of creating a pocket in baseball gloves were used to make a pistol pocket (trademarks are the property of their respective owners) out of a pouch.
A good leather holster today is often formed under great pressure to a precise fit - the snap in snap out that allows retention and reholstering without straps.
Your call on making a silk purse out of a sow's ear - but for my money it's only logical that a lesser holster should be less satisfactory than an Alessi - I try to buy mine in black and brown figuring leather should always be rested (GWH IWB) but YMMV.
Going back to say Chic Gaylord's Handgunner's Guide and before there were lots of tricks when many holsters were nicely cut and sewn but not often "boned" (the bone might be plastic toothbrush handle or what have you) so that precise fitting to a particular gun could be usefully done by the user. Many of the tricks of creating a pocket in baseball gloves were used to make a pistol pocket (trademarks are the property of their respective owners) out of a pouch.
A good leather holster today is often formed under great pressure to a precise fit - the snap in snap out that allows retention and reholstering without straps.
Your call on making a silk purse out of a sow's ear - but for my money it's only logical that a lesser holster should be less satisfactory than an Alessi - I try to buy mine in black and brown figuring leather should always be rested (GWH IWB) but YMMV.
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Holster Wear
My recently-acquired '19 Colt has some rounded corners at the front of the slide due to holster wear. It's not the rough leather that does that...It's the combination of oil, grit and sand that gets worked into the leather over time and effectively turns the holster into sandpaper. Stretching the holster
will actually make this more likely because the gun shifts around slightly
unless tightly boned, but the USGI contract holsters will do it regardless... given enough time... because of the rough, open grain on the inside. The
military wasn't overly concerned with preserving the finish or the straight lines and corners on the pistols as long as the holsters protected them from
the elements and hard knocks. Those old holsters are great for originality and nostalgia, and they do a decent job of protecting the gun...but they're rough on finishes and corners unless they're kept meticulously clean.
My recently-acquired '19 Colt has some rounded corners at the front of the slide due to holster wear. It's not the rough leather that does that...It's the combination of oil, grit and sand that gets worked into the leather over time and effectively turns the holster into sandpaper. Stretching the holster
will actually make this more likely because the gun shifts around slightly
unless tightly boned, but the USGI contract holsters will do it regardless... given enough time... because of the rough, open grain on the inside. The
military wasn't overly concerned with preserving the finish or the straight lines and corners on the pistols as long as the holsters protected them from
the elements and hard knocks. Those old holsters are great for originality and nostalgia, and they do a decent job of protecting the gun...but they're rough on finishes and corners unless they're kept meticulously clean.
sm
member
I agree with above posts.
My guns don't have wear - they have Character.
Never go up against , or bet against the fella with a gun, holster, or gun case that has character. He KNOWS how to use that gun!!
My guns don't have wear - they have Character.
Never go up against , or bet against the fella with a gun, holster, or gun case that has character. He KNOWS how to use that gun!!
- Status