Factory ammo jammed cylinder...

[gonoles_1980]

I was using RAUG Ammotec 357 FMJ. I let a buddy fire some of the rounds, and the last round jammed the revolver and wouldn't fire. Had to bang the bullet down into the brass to be able to get the cylinder open. I've never had this happen with my handloads, though I fire a lighter. I do notice, there is no crimp (or it doesn't look like they have a crimp) on these bullets. Could the power of the blasts have walked the bullet forward enough to get it jammed in the cylinder so it wouldn't fire and I couldn't get the cylinder open?

I'm using a Ruger LCR 357

 

[rswartsell]

If the round that jammed the cylinder was not indexed to the barrel, "crimp jump" is indeed what you have experienced. If it was the round in battery it was a squib load. I assume the round was not in battery and the crimp jump is a fairly common occurrence for powerful, lightweight revolvers.

Ammunition manufacturers are aware of the problem and perhaps you should use rounds tailored for short barrel concealable revolvers or stick to hand loaded that are tailored to your gun.

You don't say what gun you were using but crimp jump is far more common in the likes of J frame magnums. If you were using a "service" size revolver I would begin to look at the RUAG Ammotec as a less than desirable option for most anything.

Oh yes you DO say, the LCR fits the lightweight yet powerful description perfectly.

 

[gonoles_1980]

I performed an autopsy on the bullet, pulled the bullet, and there was very little gunpowder in the bullet, may have been soot, the inside of the case is sooty as it the back of the bullet, but that could all be powder residue. The primer is dimpled. It's possible it was a squib from the factory. Either way, I won't be buying that brand anymore.

Update: Smelling the inside of the brass, I don't sense any burnt smell at all, I would think it would linger inside for a while. Though it's been several hours since the range, but I just pulled the bullet.

 

[rswartsell]

If it has been struck by the firing pin, squib load it is and it's odd you didn't need to put the dowel down the barrel to re-seat the bullet. Usually the primer alone is enough to unseat the bullet and send it partially down the barrel. Did you put the dowel down the barrel to resolve the jam?

 

[gonoles_1980]

I went asked one of the guys at the range if he could help. He brought over a brass dowel and a wooden mallet. Banged the bullet back into the bass. I can't imagination it went all the way into the barrel or I could have opened the guy. I didn't have a mirror and pinlight flashlight to look down the barrel with so I can't be sure. Once he banged it back into the brass he opened the cylinder. It's almost like it fired on the primer only, with what little residue was left in the bass when I pulled the bullet, it either had no gunpowder, or way less than a half grain. I like to use the factory ammo to fire the heavier loads, but I'm definitely not buying the RUAG Ammotec again and my just use my own reloads in this gun from now on. I still have some 38 +P's that are factory I'll probably use in it from Remmington.

 

[rswartsell]

Squib load is the problem and reliable ammo the solution.

Shoot safe and regards!

 

[rswartsell]

On second thought,

There is something left to say! Sqib loads are very dangerous, and for the reason that you have brought up. It is very possible for a squib load to propel the bullet far enough down the barrel to allow you to advance the cylinder to the next round.

If you do not notice the change in sound, and change in recoil impulse from the sqib, and immediately stop shooting, you could send the next fully powered load down a barrel obstructed by the sqib bullet! Not good!

This would cause a dramatic increase in pressure that could bulge the barrel and maybe "banana peel" that barrel, aka burst it. If you are going to be a revolver shooter, you should be at least sub-consciously aware of the possibility of squib loads. If you feel a weak impulse, strange lack of sufficient noise, stop shooting and investigate.

The real goal is to eliminate the likeliehood of squibs. Can you stop and investigate during a self defense situation? Not likely. You need way more reliable ammo or it could cost your eyes or worse.

 

[gonoles_1980]

So far my most reliable bullets have been the 158 gr Speer, 4.5gr W231 loads I load myself. That said, I shot about 130 of these RAUG Ammotec's without an issue. The bullets are made in Switzerland, maybe I need to stick to American made factory loads.

I'm not 100% positive it's a squib since I couldn't see down the barrel with the cylinder being jammed. I do know that the primer was dimpled and there was only a small amount of residue in the 357 case. The case was sooty and the back of the copper plated bullet was black. I buy factory ammo "assuming" they have very good quality checks. I know when I load my own bullets, I do triple quality checking.

How do you eliminate squibs in factory ammo? Since I wasn't firing it, I didn't get the feel, I know what a misfire feels like. I assume a squib would sound like one of the 22 Aguila bullets that have primer only.

I appreciate your responses. I think I'm going to stick with my own reloads for a while.

 

[rswartsell]

Reputable factory ammo has all but eliminated the occurrence of squibs. Nothing is perfect or absolute, so never say never. In my experience squibs happen with amateur hand loads. I am unfamiliar with RUAG Ammotec.

It is at least remotely possible for a squib to happen at any time. It is such a small probablility with most factory ammo to be infinitesimal.

 

[btg3]

NO WAY it jammed. Just keep yankin' the trigger... IT"S A REVOLVER !!!

 

[mgkdrgn]

I do notice, there is no crimp (or it doesn't look like they have a crimp) on these bullets. Could the power of the blasts have walked the bullet forward enough to get it jammed in the cylinder so it wouldn't fire and I couldn't get the cylinder open?

Yep ... and little or no crimp is the cause.

 

[gonoles_1980]

After more analysis here's my theory

the residue that was left in the brass looks like some very small gun powder. Here's a picture of the back of bullet, and what was in the brass when I pulled the bullet (after it had be pushed back into the case with the dowel). I'm guessing the bullet had crimp jump and much of the powder came out (is that possible?). That basically there was only the primer to fire, which was dimpled.

 

[rswartsell]

Powder cannot escape until the bullet fully clears the case mouth.

 

[gamestalker]

This is one of the primary reasons I started reloading. I avoid factory ammo like the plague.

GS

 

[Steve C]

Light gun, loose hold, more recoil momentum to induce bullet pull.

 

[JRH6856]

NO WAY it jammed. Just keep yankin' the trigger... IT"S A REVOLVER !!!

Ever have a bullet stuck between the cylinder and the forcing cone?

 

[Lone Star]

Sounds like a squb load. What the heck is RAUG ammo? Buy some decent, standard brand cartridges!

Where do you live? Why mention Aguilla products? Are you Mexican or elsewhere in Latin America? Can you get US, German or Swedish ammo?

 

[gonoles_1980]

I live in a small town in Central Florida, Walmart here never has ammo, the Gun Store sells ammo with a 50% markup, so I use gunbot.net or ammoseek.com to search for ammo. RUAG Ammotec is a Swiss company. I mentioned the Aguilla because they're primer only and sound like what I would expect a squib to sound like. As soon as I get a 9mm die for my wife's gun. I may just quit buying factory loads at all. I have a place near work where I can pick up powder and primers and I just order the bullets(slugs) online. The only problem is, you can't reload 22LR's.

 

[Reloadron]

I vote for a squib round. Despite all the measures ammunition manufacturers use to prevent this, as the saying goes, stuff happens.

My first and only squib was of my own doing in the first batch of 44 Magnum I hand loaded. Guess I wasn't as careful and paying attention to detail as I thought. Hammer fell and a gentle pop and zero recoil. Bullet stuck between forcing cone and the cylinder as JRH6856 points out.

Maximum embarrassment as I went to my friend (Range Master) and asked for a wood dowel and hammer.

Ron

 

[jmr40]

NO WAY it jammed. Just keep yankin' the trigger... IT"S A REVOLVER !!!

Ever have a bullet stuck between the cylinder and the forcing cone?

It's sarcasm.

All the revolver guys are always going on, and on, and on about how much more reliable revolvers are than semi's. According to some, revolvers NEVER jam. In my years I've had far more situations like this with revolvers failing than semi's failing.

 

[JRH6856]

It's sarcasm.

All the revolver guys are always going on, and on, and on about how much more reliable revolvers are than semi's. According to some, revolvers NEVER jam. In my years I've had far more situations like this with revolvers failing than semi's failing.

Oops. guess my sarcasim detector is fritzed.

But revolvers don't jam...until they do, and when they do, it is usually a game-ender with no tap-rerack drill to clear it.

 

[Reloadron]

It's sarcasm.

All the revolver guys are always going on, and on, and on about how much more reliable revolvers are than semi's. According to some, revolvers NEVER jam. In my years I've had far more situations like this with revolvers failing than semi's failing.

I thought it was funny. Gawd, I love sarcasm when really done right.

Ron

 

[rswartsell]

As stated previously, nothing is absolute but in my 40 years of shooting I have seen and employed FAR more tap rack bang (or tap rack cuss) drills than wooden dowels. Grand total number of similarly jammed cylinders witnessed amounts to two.