Factory Refinish
- Thread starter highpower
- Start date
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We have collectors, and then we have shooters, and after that a lot of folks that fall somewhere between.
True collectables have a special value (or potential value) above an ordinary user, and especially if they are a classic or antique that were finished using a process that is no longer available, probably shouldn't be refinished if the owner has any intention of maintaining they're value, but to a degree it depends on how one wants to spend their money.
For example, in many cases you can buy an older gun that has 99% of the original finish intact, for less money then paying for a cosmetically distressed one - plus the cost of a top quality or original manufacturer refinish. If one is concerned about any real or potential collector's value they should sell the worn one they have, and use the proceeds plus refinishing cost to buy another one that has all the original finish to start with.
The advantage of getting an original manufacturer's refinish is that what really makes the difference is the way the parts are polished, and in many cases the gun maker has special custom-made polishing wheels that are shaped to exactly match the flats and contoures of the parts being polished. This is less likely to happen with those who refinish anything and everything.
But then we have those that want to upgrade a finish, say for a Colt Government Model .45 or a Detective Special or Diamondback that were originally finished in "Standard Blue," to a higher level "Royal Blue." Depending on what the particular gun is, the cost of the finer finish may come close to the present value of the gun, "as is," but if this floats your boat and you have the money to burn - have at it!
One should always keep in mind that if they plan to actively use a refinished gun it may not have that "new look" for long. This may or may not make a difference in one's thinking, but it should be a consideration. You may be spending a lot of cash to make it perfect, and then through use return it to what it was.
Concerning the S&W .44 Magnum currently under consideration. My course of action would depend on how much use I expected to give it. If it was to become an every-day user I would set aside the like-new stocks and wear some more of the original finish off. On the other hand if it would be an occasional user or be parked in a safe I would send it in to S&W to be checked over and refinished. If it was a common model 10 M&P .38 I would either leave it as it was, or settle for a new (inexpensive) bead-blast and Parkerize job.
But to each their own...
True collectables have a special value (or potential value) above an ordinary user, and especially if they are a classic or antique that were finished using a process that is no longer available, probably shouldn't be refinished if the owner has any intention of maintaining they're value, but to a degree it depends on how one wants to spend their money.
For example, in many cases you can buy an older gun that has 99% of the original finish intact, for less money then paying for a cosmetically distressed one - plus the cost of a top quality or original manufacturer refinish. If one is concerned about any real or potential collector's value they should sell the worn one they have, and use the proceeds plus refinishing cost to buy another one that has all the original finish to start with.
The advantage of getting an original manufacturer's refinish is that what really makes the difference is the way the parts are polished, and in many cases the gun maker has special custom-made polishing wheels that are shaped to exactly match the flats and contoures of the parts being polished. This is less likely to happen with those who refinish anything and everything.
But then we have those that want to upgrade a finish, say for a Colt Government Model .45 or a Detective Special or Diamondback that were originally finished in "Standard Blue," to a higher level "Royal Blue." Depending on what the particular gun is, the cost of the finer finish may come close to the present value of the gun, "as is," but if this floats your boat and you have the money to burn - have at it!
One should always keep in mind that if they plan to actively use a refinished gun it may not have that "new look" for long. This may or may not make a difference in one's thinking, but it should be a consideration. You may be spending a lot of cash to make it perfect, and then through use return it to what it was.
Concerning the S&W .44 Magnum currently under consideration. My course of action would depend on how much use I expected to give it. If it was to become an every-day user I would set aside the like-new stocks and wear some more of the original finish off. On the other hand if it would be an occasional user or be parked in a safe I would send it in to S&W to be checked over and refinished. If it was a common model 10 M&P .38 I would either leave it as it was, or settle for a new (inexpensive) bead-blast and Parkerize job.
But to each their own...
Guillermo
member
BTW
Earlier I mentioned that I was not likely to refinish a worn finish on a firearm.
What I failed to mention is that I will pay to fix abuse. I have an early Diamondback snub (I forget but if memory serves, inside of 200 had been made). It appears that the former owner took steel wool to it.
I can't stand to look at it. It is going to take a trip to Ford's.
Honest holster wear...I am not only fine with it...but appreciate it.
Abuse should be remedied.
Earlier I mentioned that I was not likely to refinish a worn finish on a firearm.
What I failed to mention is that I will pay to fix abuse. I have an early Diamondback snub (I forget but if memory serves, inside of 200 had been made). It appears that the former owner took steel wool to it.
I can't stand to look at it. It is going to take a trip to Ford's.
Honest holster wear...I am not only fine with it...but appreciate it.
Abuse should be remedied.
Ash
Member
Jimmy, my point is that the cost of the arm plus the cost of refinishing does not pay. Your example provided no costs, but I wouldn't pay $450 for that Ruger, assuming $200 for the pistol and $250 for the refinishing job.
jimmyraythomason
Member
Ash,I traded a Ruger KP-90 (worth about $350) for the GP-100. I did the bluing myself at practically no cost. What you would or would not pay for it is irrelevant. It would easily sell for $500 where I live.
Ash
Member
Jimmy, practically no cost? No materials, no tanks, nothing? Really? Irrelevant? Okay, I'll bite. How does one actually do bluing without spending money?
And I'm from Alabama. Where do you live? I know Hartselle/Huntsville, Gasden, Anniston/Heflin/Oxford (great hiking), Montgomery, and Mobile. Dad worked TV in Birgmingham and Mobile (NBC). I graduated high school in Baldwin County. Unless you are Pheonix City or Auburn, where exactly are blued Rugers running greater than 5 C-notes?
Really, I'm not trying to be contrary.
And I'm from Alabama. Where do you live? I know Hartselle/Huntsville, Gasden, Anniston/Heflin/Oxford (great hiking), Montgomery, and Mobile. Dad worked TV in Birgmingham and Mobile (NBC). I graduated high school in Baldwin County. Unless you are Pheonix City or Auburn, where exactly are blued Rugers running greater than 5 C-notes?
Really, I'm not trying to be contrary.
Last edited:
ColtPythonElite
Member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2011
- Messages
- 10,473
Reblued GP100's bring $500 in Alabama? Heck, a brand new one not much more than that.
jimmyraythomason
Member
I'm in Oneonta,that's about 35 mi north of B'ham. Blued GP-100s are selling for $650 on the boards here as are the SS ones(original finishes of course. I can do it for almost no cost because I have all the equipment left over from when I had a gun shop. I did have to fill the gas bottle(I borrowed it from my grill)but didn't use much of it at all. I have a large air compressor and blast cabinet in me shop for metal prep. I have left over Oxynate 7 salts and 909 cleaner. All were paid for a long time ago(and have paid for themselves). I do have about 8 hours of my free time invested in it though.
jimmyraythomason
Member
I also bought a Century Gp1975 AK that had been painted an ugly tan color for $450. I mean everything had been painted,metal,furniture....everything. I did the same bead blast blue on it and traded it for a Ruger Mini-30 with Hogue overmold stock,7 factory mags(1x5,2x10 and 5x20) plus 500 rounds of 7.62x39 ammo. Minis are selling here used @$500-600 and new @ Wally world at just under $700 for .223. You can't even find a Mini-30. My Browning BDM 9mm is a gun metal grey color (looks like faded bluing) that I wont touch because I LIKE the way it looksas is and am not concerned with what some-one would pay for it.
Ash
Member
My border collie came from Oneonta, and I did a signing at the gaming shop down town, a real relaxed sort of place.
jimmyraythomason
Member
Sorry,I'm not into games so I didn't even know there was such a shop in "tin town".
Ash
Member
Nor am I, but they buy books and I made some good money and drank some decent coffee there. Don't get down town often? Where are the shops you visit?
jimmyraythomason
Member
The only shop on main street (1st avenue) that I visit is my barber. The ONLY firearms and ammunition dealer in Oneonta is WalMart and I only go there if I absolutely HAVE to. I will drive to one of the neighboring towns to buy guns and/ammo. Private sales of same are very big here via a dozen or more online gun trade sites.
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