FEG Hi-Power 9mm (questions/clarifications)

[Gun Master]

Double Action Interarms R-9 by FEG

I have been disappointed by my older model R-9, with failure to feed. Since I have 3 mags, and I might try the Wolff Springs suggested. Nice looking gun. Would like to keep it, but not likely to if jams continue. Thanks for the info.

 

[Critical J]

FEG R9, you say?

Alright, new page/new direction, I guess. Tell me more about these R9's, looks like they could work, I'm not offended by the DA trigger (enough), but reliability is key! If it's still "fairly interchangeable" then that'd be close enough, does it shoot just as well as the
Hi-Power clone? Just how close to "clone" are we really talking, otherwise, here?

* okay, I've just learned that the R9 suffers from the S&W internals, sadly, but I'd still like to hear some feedback if anyone cares to contribute...

 

[sub-moa]

If the Mauser you speak of is a Mauser-Werke Mod 80SA like this, you've got an FEG BHP clone...





If you're now leaning toward a DA/SA FEG, I'll step aside...I'd imagine others will be happy to give you a hand.

 

[Gun Master]

Feg clone ?

My double action FEG Interarms R-9 appears to be a clone of the Mauser Model 90-DA. If you have it available, the Guns and Ammo 1995 Annual, lists the 90-DA on page 212. This looks like my R-9.

 

[Critical J]

@ sub-moa

Wait, say that again; the Mauser is a BHP clone?!
I was sure I had heard otherwise, elsewhere...
Trust me, I still prefer the SA trigger!

 

[sub-moa]

The Mauser-Werke 80SA...built by FEG, is a SA BHP clone whose parts interchange with genuine FN parts (with the exception of the current FN FPS Sear Lever...which can be trimmed and used, if a surplus Sear Lever isn't readily available) which are available here in the US through Browning Arms. That's the phosphate refinished pistol I posted the 2 slide legend pics of last night. I would still suggest you use the parts verification I've mentioned: BHP Cam, Slide cut and Slide Stop, when you handle the pistol...

THIS is the Mauser-Werke 80SA you want:


This is a Mauser-Werke 90DA you DO NOT want:


NOTE: the 80SA at the top is typical BHP SA and the SN normally begins 800XXXX while the 90DA below it is DA/SA with a slide mounted safety ala S&W and the SN normally begins 900XXXX...the magazines don't even interchange between the two

 

[Storm]

there was one with a lanyard ring at the bottom, but I think it sold

Speaking of a lanyard ring... This one is a true Hi Power clone. It was imported by CAI, which isn’t all that common. My research tells me that it is military surplus. It is based on the FN model known as the Vigilant which was also available with the lanyard ring. This gun saw rough service externally but was internally excellent. Some metal work and GunKote did the trick. I lucked out and found some like-new FN grips with the cutout for the lanyard post. It’s a great shooter with a tendency to shoot a bit high depending on the ammo. This one allows my mint 1980’s BHP to remain in the safe most of the time.

 

[Pilot]

Then there is the Charles Daly Hi Power which was also made by FEG, but assembled here if memory serves.

 

[Storm]

Then there is the Charles Daly Hi Power which was also made by FEG, but assembled here if memory serves.

Your memory serves correctly! Those Charles Daly/K.B.I. guns were very nicely done, some done with outstanding finishes. Then you have the surplus guns like mine and the Israeli Kareem. There are also fake FN stamped FEGs that I think came by way of Iraq.

 

[Gun Master]

Mauser 80-SA & 90-DA clones

The Mauser-Werke 80SA...built by FEG, is a SA BHP clone whose parts interchange with genuine FN parts (with the exception of the current FN FPS Sear Lever...which can be trimmed and used, if a surplus Sear Lever isn't readily available) which are available here in the US through Browning Arms. That's the phosphate refinished pistol I posted the 2 slide legend pics of last night. I would still suggest you use the parts verification I've mentioned: BHP Cam, Slide cut and Slide Stop, when you handle the pistol...

THIS is the Mauser-Werke 80SA you want:


This is a Mauser-Werke 90DA you DO NOT want:


NOTE: the 80SA at the top is typical BHP SA and the SN normally begins 800XXXX while the 90DA below it is DA/SA with a slide mounted safety ala S&W and the SN normally begins 900XXXX...the magazines don't even interchange between the two

Yup, the 90-DA shown looks exactly like mine, blond grips and all. Maybe I should have gone for the 80-SA clone. I can affirm that the SA and DA mags do not interchange.

 

[Dr.Rob]

I have three FEG hi-powers now. Two are complete clones, one is a mid-production simplified version.

Left to right.. stock except for Hogue grip, small gritty factory safety. Center: my competition pistol with a C&S aftermarket safety. Right: mid production gun with factory extended controls but a modified slide with the triangle cut. (I wonder if the extended lever from #3 will fit #1)




The big differences between those two was addressed here:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=263166&highlight=FEG

 

[Critical J]

General Reply

I'd say that I'm 90% proof positive I've found the right model, as it's a Mauser with the cam and correct slide cut. It also has a standard safety, wood grips and a lanyard ring, if that means anything - got $50 down on it now, but if yall are suggesting that there's even more specification required then I have no further info at this time...

Price is a little high for a gun with oxidization issues, but I wouldn't call it a problem really. Not rusted, but a little brown with patina and still pretty smooth, it seemed. There was another Mauser with richer bluing that was slightly cheaper. I won't let a $25 difference bug me too bad.

 

[Stringfellow]

You got some good advice here, Critical. Sub-moa in particular gave you all the details you need.

The only question remaining, is whether the ring hammer gives you hammer bite.

I choose the ring hammer every chance I get due to aesthetics (e.g., 1911), but the ring bit me horribly on the HP (technically it pinched me) whereas the spur hammer doesn't touch me at all. Instead it follows the curve of my hand perfectly without ever touching it. If this is your first real quality time with an HP, you should confirm.

But that is not an issue, I suspect you will be pretty happy the first time you got to the range with it...

 

[sub-moa]

That was good of you Stringfellow ...thanks

You make yet another good point as well...regarding the ring v. spur hammer and hammer bite

Coming from a revolver background, I'd imagine Critical will likely be ok Ya think?

Wonder if he picked-up the 80SA?

 

[Stringfellow]

There's always that point where you know just enough info to make yourself dangerous. I've been there many times, and many times folks here on this forum saved me from some grief. Sub-moa - we depend on folks like you to give us the scoop and keep us out of trouble--thanks.

A few years ago I would have made this mistake: BHP = good, FEG = good enough, so any given BHP styled FEG = good to go. But that is not necessarily the case once you learn the details...

 

[Critical J]

@ sub-moa

Not yet, but I'll let you know when I do.

 

[sub-moa]

Critical, I don't know what the asking price is for the FEG/Mauser 80SA you are considering...BUT, considering your intended use, I would be remiss if I failed to remind you of the possible alternative I suggested in Post #11:

"AND...if you want a REAL, quality FN BHP pistol, especially to stuff in a "Go-Bag"...for whatever purpose , I'd suggest having a look on GB for cdisales (Cole's Distributors). Gary Cole has sold hundreds of surplus...mostly Israeli, FN BHP pistols over the past few years. You can get an all original, early '90s, forged frame, re-finished (Phosphate), no Firing Pin Safety, MkIII FN BHP for under $500. The MkIII BTW, is the current design which has the desirable MkII features that were carried over to the MkIII, such as a hollowpoint friendly feedramp, extended Ambi-Thumb Safety" and nylon/plastic grips as well as the MkIII "improved" Ejection Port AND very usable...and easily changed if you are of a mind, fixed sights, dovetailed front and rear.

FWIW, I'm not sure why I mention Cole's, it just increases the competition over pistols I'd like to buy . AND...I have no affiliation what-so-ever with them, other than as a plain old GB customer...who's purchased "several" of their FN BHP pistols."

Best of luck in whatever you decide upon

 

[Critical J]

FEG Hi-Power in attendance!

Now then, what is this "mag disconnect" all about?
If I modify it, it'll give me a smoother trigger pull, right?
Can someone walk me through this process or provide a link, please?

 

[sub-moa]

As per your PM CJ:

Pros & Cons of the Magazine Disconnect/Safety, per the well respected Stephen Camp RIP...and YES it is...and has been, called a safety by the manufacturer...FN, at least since 1934!

http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/MagazineSafety.htm

Posted for educational purposes only:

If you can read through some of the typical internet "I know more than the FN factory, professional BHP Pistolsmiths and respected BHP authorities" the basics can be found within this thread.

Keep in mind, with most older FN BHPs...and clones such as the FEG P9 based pistols, the MDS assembly may be safely removed without removing the trigger from the frame IF...and only IF, one fully and independently supports the trigger while driving out the small MDS Pin before working the MDS Plunger itself...and MDS Spring out the rear of the trigger.

If you find you must remove the Trigger from the frame because the MDS Plunger won't wiggle out, ignore the initial posted opinion in this thread that the Trigger Pin should be driven left to right. The Trigger Pin should be driven from RIGHT to LEFT...at least according to the folks who manufactured the pistol.

Keep in mind, individual pistols might require individual levels of force to move/drive out the Trigger Pin AND it is downright common for inexperienced individuals to mar-up either frame and/or Trigger Pin.

Again, for educational purposes only:

http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=133740

 

[Onmilo]

I didn't read all the posts so I don't know if the question was answered yet.
The Hungarian FEG P-9 is the closest to the original High Power.
All parts will interchange based on post 1973 FN manufacture.
Best advice if you find one is to replace the original slide stop with an OEM FN made slide stop, the Hungarian made ones are soft, they never could produce a satisfactory copy and that is why they went to the simpler short slide stop on the guns. HTH

 

[Stringfellow]

Removing the mag safety took my trigger from nails-on-a-chalkboard horrible to grease-on-glass outstanding. Philosophically, I don't like the concept of a mag safety, so the decision to remove it was a no brainer for me.

My FEG trigger is the best trigger of all my pistols (almost all have been worked over by a smith).

 

[Janos Dracwlya]

I purchased one of the Cole Distributing FN-marked FEG Hi Powers back in late September. (Cole is half an hour's drive from where I live)

In comparing it to my Mark IIIS/SFS FN Hi Power, it seemed to me that it would be fairly simple to have it modified to add a firing pin block. Is this so?

Thanks.

 

[CajunBass]

There's a lot of good information in this thread. Thanks for kicking it back to the top whoever did.

I picked up this PJK-9HP, a K.B.I. import, a few weeks ago. I haven't had much chance to shoot it, just a magazine full of mixed ammo out back of the hog pen, but it seems to work fine and hits where I point it if I point it where I want it to hit. While it's not as pretty as a Browning HP, it's a long way from ugly. Couple of small scratches and dings, but doesn't appear to have been dropped or kicked around too much.





The magazine disconnect is still intact. It really doesn't seem to be a big deal to me. The trigger has a bit of takeup, but after that breaks nicely Not something I can't live with. I didn't have a problem with hammer bite in the very limited shooting I did, but it's something I'll be aware of in the future. The safety is too small and stiff, but not worth changing out for what I'll use the gun for.

I probably paid "too much" for it ($350.00) but compared to Browning's going for 800-1,000.00, I figured it would scratch the itch I've had for a Hi-Power for years.

 

[Onmilo]

CajunBass $350 isn't too much for what you got.
Some really beat up examples go for that much on GunBroker.
BTW. did you know FEG wooden grips are made from Birchwood and not walnut?
Better in my opinion.

 

[Critical J]

$350

mine has the lanyard ring, but is in a little rougher condition. still payed $350 for it though, might could have gotten a little better...