Filling emptying a powder flask?

[mgmorden]

Hi - I've got a (reproduction) copper powder flask. Previously when I filled it I couldn't figure out how to get the top off so I just made a paper funnel and filled it through the spout.

Now I've decided to try a different powder type and was looking to change out the powder that's in there. I got MOST of the powder back out through the spout but there's still a tiny bit in there that won't shake out.

I removed three small screw around the sides of the top thinking it would then come off but it felt just as solid with the screws gone as with them there.

Does the top typically come off of these? If not, is it safe to put in a different powder type with the trace amount of the other stuff still in there (It had Triple 7 FFG in there - switching to Pyrodex RS).

Thanks!

 

[noelf2]

"Most" and "a tiny bit" are subjective and mean different things to different people. I wouldn't worry about a few granules of 777 bouncing around in there. I never took the top off of mine either. I remove the spout and use a plastic funnel in the hole.

 

[4v50 Gary]

The flasks I have used those small screws to secure the top. Unscrewing them allows for removing the top and for emptying or filling the flask.

BTW, I generally use a funnel made from a sheet of paper. It's easier than using a screwdriver.

 

[Pulp]

For some reason I'm thinking those flasks are varnished. You may have to twist the top around and break the seal. Since we're not talking about smokeless powder here, I wouldn't worry to much about it anyway.

 

[mgmorden]

Ok - by most I mean when I shake it you have to listen REALLY close and you can hear a few tiny bits of powder shaking around in there, but I'm guessing the total volume left in there is between 0.5 and 1 gr.

I guess I'll just ignore it. I'm just usually very anal about getting everything out of a powder measure (I take a vacuum to my LnL hopper between powders ).

 

[MEHavey]

If it's Black, ignore any remaining the only "rattles" around.

As to filling, I just circle thumb/forefinger around the top and pour....

Between the fingers and the circular spring holding the shut-off valve,
I rarely spill anything and the powder just continually drops through
the hole (left by unscrewing the pour spout) like going down a drain.

 

[BCRider]

On both of mine the top comes off after the screws are backed out or removed. But I could see how on a new one that the burrs left by drilling and tapping would lock the top in place a bit. You just need a little more healthy tug to break it loose.

I'm sort of surprised that no one makes a screw in funnel to use on these measures. It seems like something of the sort would be a great option.

Oh, and yes, you are being needlessly OCD over the few grains of powder remaining in the flask. Don't give it a second thought.

 

[MCgunner]

Never had the top off my flask in 40 years. I just dump all that I can get out, all but a grain maybe, then use my powder funnel (a reloading tool) and pour the new powder into the spout via the funnel. It's really pretty simple.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/974498/lee-powder-funnel-22-to-45-caliber?cm_vc=ProductFinding

 

[Noz]

Ted Cash makes such a funnel. Pretty brass with threads on the spout.

 

[DoubleDeuce 1]

In forty plus years, I have never removed the top to any of my flasks to refill. I unscrew the spout and use a small plastic funnel. I also use an empty .223 case soldered to the twist top cap of the powder can for pouring into the flask.

 

[MCgunner]

Ted Cash makes such a funnel. Pretty brass with threads on the spout.

Well, I bet that accessory costs more'n the Lee powder funnel I linked to for something like $4,75 or something. And, the powder funnel works just fine, been working for me for 40 years.

 

[mgmorden]

Ted Cash makes such a funnel. Pretty brass with threads on the spout.

Dang. This is pretty neat. Apparently only about $12 too. Might end up grabbing one of those, though admittedly for the filling part the rolled sheet of paper did work quite well.

 

[MilsurpShooter]

Well going by a bad flask I received recently I would give a +1 to the varnish maybe holding it on. Or perhaps when the screws were tightened down they made some small divots around the edge which is giving it a tighter fit then usual. Back out the three screws, grip both firmly and pull with a slight twist. Pretend your opening a jar of tomato sauce or something.

If you have to go up to "Opening a jar of pickles" pressure then something else is holding it on and don't force it.

I've attached a picture of one which gave me an issue, small burrs made the top a little difficult to get out

 

[AJumbo]

MGM, please tell me you don't get your static-producing vacuum cleaner anywhere near your powder hopper......... that was a typo, right?

 

[MEHavey]

Ordinary (even extraordinary) static is not a significant BP ignition source.
http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/sparks/sparks.html
http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/electric_ignition/eignition.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nm6PEdBcQ6s

(Which is not to say we shouldn't reasonably minimize things)

 

[mgmorden]

MGM, please tell me you don't get your static-producing vacuum cleaner anywhere near your powder hopper......... that was a typo, right?

The tiny bit of leftovers that I'm vacuuming up is in no danger of causing any problem. Heck I could strike a match to that much with no ill effect except for the soot.

 

[Fingers McGee]

In forty plus years, I have never removed the top to any of my flasks to refill. I unscrew the spout and use a small plastic funnel.[/

+1. Taking out the three screws and removing the top is asking for trouble.

Here's the brass funnel from Cabelas. I've got a plastic spout that fits a GOEX can that I use to fill my flasks.

 

[BCRider]

Since I didn't know any better I just loosen or take out the set screws and fill through the big neck size opening. Or since one of the three I've got is the tubular style with threaded top I just unscrew it and fill 'er up.

I did make a little scratch mark on the top for the other two set screw locking caps so I'd be able to relocate the top the same way each time.

When I get my machine shop back up and running I'm thinking that I'll make up a threaded ring and new cap and transplant the spring, lever and valve to it so I've got a simple screw on top.

 

[EljaySL]

Amazing what you learn. I assumed everybody used the screw on funnels. Picked one up with my first flask, I have no idea from where or what it cost but I'm sure it was on the same page so I got one. It's very convenient - screws in far enough to keep the opening, er, open.

 

[whughett]

MGM, please tell me you don't get your static-producing vacuum cleaner anywhere near your powder hopper......... that was a typo, right?

Refer to thread: "Cleaning Up Spilled Powder", 8/7/2014.

 

[MEHavey]

CLEANING UP SPILLED POWDER (Mythbusters ref above)

 

[Malamute]

Some of the measure spouts will fit backwards in the hole and hold the flap open while refilling with a funnel. I've used paper for funnels also, it works fine.

 

[Fred West]

Some of the measure spouts will fit backwards in the hole and hold the flap open while refilling with a funnel.

Works for me.

 

[4v50 Gary]

Just saw a brass screw-in funnel this weekend. Neat way to refill a flask.

 

[Panzerschwein]

I usually use a jewlers screwdriver to unscrew the 3 screws half way, then pull off the spout assembly. Then I use a funnel to fill the flask, but after reading this I'm going to get a smaller funnel and use that to fill through the open spout that way.