Finally got to shoot my S&W 442

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Titus said:
What part of your thumb is sore? I would try making adjustments to your grip first. When I first got my 642, I had a little trouble with the cylinder latch hitting my thumb.

It is very possible simply adjusting my grip will help. Looking at the location of the swelling (it is still sore BTW) I was thinking that the metal hump that conceals the hammer might be coming back and hitting my hand. However, it may be possible it is the cylinder latch.

The location of the welt is starting on the top of my thumb at the base right at the first knuckle and then then moving forward at a slight angle to about halfway into the web of my thumb. At its worst it was about the size of a quarter. What is still there is about the size of a nickle.
 
Not trying to duck the question but I think the best solution to a carry gun that is light enough for comfortable carry but too light to practice with extensively is to get an equivalent gun in a heavier metal. For example, a model 38 and a model 49 or a Cobra and a Detective Special or a model 37 and a model 36. The heavy one for the range and practice, the lighter one for carry. You'll develop the skill and muscle memory on the heavier gun and this will be transferable to the lighter one when you need it.

Unfortunately, there are only lightweight versions of the Centennials AFAIK. Maybe a 49 or 649 would do?

Bill
 
Love the .38 649, I think they ruined the gun whan it became the .357, but was just a bit too much for pocket carry for me. Once I put a 642 in there it has been there ever since, about 10 years. I like to hold these things very high up as the recoil seems to come straight back that way. Humpbacks are great. Maybe the shape of this gun just isn't right for you!?
 
Chaim,

I don't currently have an alloy J-frame, to my disappointment, but I can relate to you my earlier experiences with them. One of the first guns I bought was an airweight 442 Centennial. At first when I shot about 50 rounds through it, I would have an abraded portion on my hand at the base of the thumb, between the thumb and forefinger. It just plain was painful to shoot the little bugger and this with standard pressure loads. I found that, quite naturally, the more I shot it, the better things got. I guess my grip, etc. improved and eventually I found the little gun, if not pleasant to shoot, at least not painful and I got to where I could hit reasonably accuretely with it at least out to the ranges such a weapon would normally be employed. In short, don't give up on it too soon. You'll adapt and it will get a lot better in pretty short order. Still, there may be limits and you may never want to shoot the real stompers out of it. I love little wheelguns guns but they are, for me at least, harder to shoot than small autos. My Guardian .380 is much easier to shoot than the little J's, even with the hottest ammo. I love the little wheelies, though.
 
OK, a couple more thoughts I've had on this issue.

First, I'm not a big fan of lasers but Crimson Trace are some of the better ones out there(they aren't very bulky and seem to make more sense than some of the lasers out there). I'm tempted to go ahead and buy some of these Laser grips. I'm not interested in them for carry/range use, but it would help me get more out of my dry firing sessions. Watching the laser would help eliminate any wobble and flinching to let me develop into a better more steady shot with this gun. Probably the best way to get used to it if I'm not going to fire it often. However, these things aren't cheap (over $200) and that may stop this idea.

I have been thinking about getting a .22lr snub to help me get more proficient with a snub. While my all steel Taurus 85 isn't uncomfortable to shoot, and .38spl isn't exactly an expensive round, I could do a lot more shooting in a session out of a similarly sized .22lr. Maybe instead of .22lr I might get a .22mag and get it in aluminum- still cheaper than .38spl, still lighter recoiling, but if I decide to go with a lower recoil round in my lightweight snub I'll already have a workable gun.

Taurus aluminum guns are a bit heavier than S&W. The Taurus 85UL is 17oz. I'm wondering how much difference both for carry and for recoil that extra 2oz makes. Anyone here own both the Taurus and S&W aluminum snubs? How much difference does the 2oz make in recoil, and is it noticably heavier when carried in a pocket? If the 2oz will help without too big a cost in concealment I would consider trading for the Taurus 85UL and deal with the exposed hammer.

Not trying to duck the question but I think the best solution to a carry gun that is light enough for comfortable carry but too light to practice with extensively is to get an equivalent gun in a heavier metal.

I do have a steel Taurus 85CH. It is a bobbed hammer DAO version of the Taurus 85. It is similar enough to the 442 that most handling and accuracy characteristics should be comparable (obviously they aren't the same, but the skills should be fairly transferable). If you think I should go with the same profile as the Centennial, Taurus offers the 850CIA primarily in steel and I might consider that. Also, I've been considering a .22lr snub (probably aluminum) in order to get more snub practice than I otherwise could (less recoil and less cost so I could probably shoot it all day). Still, I'm not entirely comfortable using a gun for defense that I don't shoot regularly.
 
Hmm, just took a look at the thread on grips for Centennials (http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=177562) and the post linking to the Spegel grips look to have something that may help prevent the welt (though recoil will probably still be stiff). They apparently have grips specifically made for Centennials with wood that goes up onto the metal hump. Assuming it actually was contact with this metal that hurt my thumb these should help. Here is the link, http://www.lightningarms.com/spegel_boot.htm

I just wonder how much they actually cost, I don't want to be out too much money if they don't actually help.
 
Chaim, rimfire revolvers have a much heavier trigger pull than centerfire revolvers, so the two gun training method doesn't work very well in that instance.
 
I went through something similar, too, with a Model 38; airweight .38spl with the little wood grips on it.

When I first took my new find to the range I had no idea what I was in for. I forced myself to power through the entire 50 round box, and dealt with the same problems you did.

Ordered a pair of Laser Grips, the 305 soft rubber model.

Had another range session with those little wood stocks, again. More of the same except only 25 rounds, another 24 hours of pain and swelling.

Grips came in, put them on and didn't notice that much of a difference in concealability. Much softer. 50 rounds is no problem, even up to 100. Still working on the flinch I gave myself from those first two times, and I still do lose the skin on the top of my thumb.. But, not like it was...

If you don't want the lasers, just find any of the softer "combat" overmolded grips. You will be pleased.
 
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