I'm finally getting around to finishing the stock on my Special Grade CMP Garand. I ordered a tung oil kit and gunny wax from Garand Gear. Is it best to remove the handguards from the rifle when doing this? Or can they be left on?
Finishing Garand Stock
- Thread starter lpsharp88
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I've removed the hand guards from my M1s when refinishing them. The front one is easy, the rear one not as easy.
A pin has to be removed from the lower band before the hand guard can be slid off the barrel.
Once removed, I did leave the metal on the hand guards. While not ideal, it is not the easiest to remove the metal and then reinstall it without the risk of damage.
I have removed the metal from the hand guards. For the clip on the rear hand guard, I recommend investing in the clip removal pliers. It is easy to damage the hand guard otherwise.
On the front hand guard, I bought new replacement metal parts and installed them as opposed to re-using the old ones.
If you are wanting to do much sanding, you will need to remove the metal from the stock.
Take stock of your mechanical abilities and tools on hand and access how comfortable you are tackling the task.
A pin has to be removed from the lower band before the hand guard can be slid off the barrel.
Once removed, I did leave the metal on the hand guards. While not ideal, it is not the easiest to remove the metal and then reinstall it without the risk of damage.
I have removed the metal from the hand guards. For the clip on the rear hand guard, I recommend investing in the clip removal pliers. It is easy to damage the hand guard otherwise.
On the front hand guard, I bought new replacement metal parts and installed them as opposed to re-using the old ones.
If you are wanting to do much sanding, you will need to remove the metal from the stock.
Take stock of your mechanical abilities and tools on hand and access how comfortable you are tackling the task.
Well, I have little in the way of tools, and not a whole lot more faith in my mechanical abilities (I'm sure I can remove them, just not sure about without breaking anything). So I may just field strip and do it like that. I have a lot more faith in my hand-eye coordination than my tools/mechanical abilities.
Reloadron
Contributing Member
If you do not feel comfortable removing the hand guards as cfullgraf mentions then it is likely best if you leave them alone. If the metal has a nice parkerized finish you may want to use some masking tape to cover those areas where you don't want oil. Masking tape and use an exacto or similar knife to trim the tape. Personally I remove all the wood and strip it of all metal but again if you are uncomfortable a little masking tape can help.
Ron
Ron
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I did the same as mentioned above. Painters tape on the parked metal. Three light coats of tung oil and I was satisfied with the results. I just wanted a little protection for the wood and for it to not look so unfinished. I didn't get hung up on having a proper "look", nor did I want some glossy look.
Reloadron
Contributing Member
That should work just fine. Take your time and I am sure it will come out nice. Last one I did was GI Birch (the orange wood) and I used Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil and it came out OK, unusual looking but OK.
Ron
1KPerDay
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Have fun! Here's a vid of 3 of my garand finishes to whet your appetite in the meantime.
https://youtu.be/E7NcDR7-i6Y
https://youtu.be/E7NcDR7-i6Y
Beautiful Garands! I have one like the first one in your video, 1942 Springfield Special grade. Mine gave me a fat lip out of the gate, but I still love her haha
1KPerDay
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LOL did you wrap your thumb over or did the receiver get you in the lip?
Pretty sure the receiver got me. First weapon I ever fired was an M16A2 in basic training at Fort Leonardwood, so I've had "nose to the charging handle" beat into my brain. So what do I do? Load a clip, flip off the safety, nose nearly to the receiver, BAM! Very fat lip and a bruised ego
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