Firearms lubrication

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Slater

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This topic has been beat senseless in regards to which lubricant is best, synthetic motor oil vs. gun oil, etc.

One area that I wanted to get a opinion on, though, is the subject of lubrication of bolt-action rifles and pump shotguns. These weapons are pretty basic compared to most semiautomatic firearms, so would a light grease be recommended over oil for general lubrication, or vice versa?
 
FP-10 thats all i gotta say. I heard the Navy Seals use these things. So if it works for the Seals it will work for everyone. That's for damn sure! lol
 
You could get doezens of opinions on this one.

Bottom line is that neither a bolt action rifle nor a pump shotgun need much lubrication.

IMO either light grease or light oil would be fine; whichever you prefer.
 
I've only used light oil with my guns, and usually only a minimal amount of that. I have an 870 that's going on 34 years old and a BHP approaching its' twentieth birthday as a couple examples, and they're as good as new.
 
If possible I use the recommended lubricant. For milsurps I use CLP for light lubricating and grease for heavy. Any grease or oil recommended by a reputable gun maker for a bolt gun is ok by me. I happen to have picked up some swiss surplus stuff that smells like axel grease and seems to do a good job. :)

For military guns if you can find the original mil spec I'd use that. I wonder what the WWII mausers used and what Mauser recommends today.

Found some tests CLP wins at preventing corrosion
http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html
 
I sell industrial lubricants for a living. Most all grease turns into glue at cold temps. If you're going to use your firearm when it's cold, I'd avoid grease in most cases. For example, if you grease the bolt assembly around the firing pin at the temps drop down to zero, it may well not fire or hang fire.

I use a light coat of a good lighter oil. Something with moly or teflon should be good.
 
From november to may, its medium weight oil, ala 5w-30 mobil 1, the rest of the time its 89cent tube of moly automotive grease. IF I'm doin a heavy range session, everything gets the grease, stays put even when the weapon gets hot.
 
i use a variety of lubes, but i never use them over and over.. once i get my weapons and fire them , the first time i thoroughly clean and lube. then i put on a host of lubes, and apply them in a stainless steel trough usually. firts I start with a few days, covered in the heat , outside patio of a liquid that soaks in. once it dries, it is essentially a dry lube. then to keep surfaces "slick" i then lube up with synthetic lube, or rem oil, and even a whale derivetive based oil. let that soak for a couple of days.
after that, lube is pretty much a " if I wanna" game. even after a lot of firing. i'll wipe and clean out etc., but whether i lube it afterwards is not a necessity.
 
Steve, that's a really interesting article you posted. I've had a tube of food-grade Petrol-Gel aluminum based lubricant sitting in the garage for years, but I had no idea that it was good for anything more than my uncle's old sno-cone machine. I've just been using moly grease and CLP.
 
Hey, hey! Ho, ho! That grease has gotta go!

Many years ago, when I was a lad, the NRA published a study on the effectiveness of lubricants in cold weather. Can't find it in my files to refer to. And remember, this was before all of today's super-lubes. But the main ideas still apply I believe.

The gist was that, in any sort of cold weather, you don't want to grease the workings of a firearm. The colder it gets, the truer this is. The NRA article had a graph of the various lubes, and the minimal temp at which each could be depended on to NOT freeze up.

IIRC, paraffin was out from the start. Regular old axle grease was next, and it made the firearm unreliable at something like 40° F, and solidified at a slightly lower temp, to the extent that the firearm wouldn't function at all. Next to go was castor oil. There was some discussion of various SAE engine oils, obviously, the thicker, the higher temp at which they sludged up. Sewing machine oil was discussed as a low-temp lube, but even IT affected firearm performance at a low enough temperature.

Now we're talking well below 0° F, and the only thing they could reccommend was kerosene--yes, as a lube--or powdered graphite. If the powder was to be used in extreme cold, it was reccommended to completely degrease the firearm, and go with the pure graphite.

Personally, and much more recently, I tried Wilson Combat grease in my 1911. Worked GRR-eat! in warm temps, but even on a coolish fall day the slide would periodically fail to close and lock up. Obviously, I de-greased the 1911 and now just oil it, and have never had a failure to completely cycle, since. For all my autoloading pistols I use Outers Gunslick oil, Kroil, Rem-Oil, or S&W spray gun lube, depending on which comes to hand. The Kroil really works its way nicely into the tiniest crannies.

Yr question was on bolt rifles and pump shotguns, and I use the same 4 oils in them. NO GREASE! If I were going hunting in a situation where the temp might get down toward the single digits I'd definitely degrease and go with the Kroil, not one of the others. I've never dealt with shooting in a below-zero F situation, and were that contemplated, more research would be called for. I'm sure the military has something better now than kerosene, for an arctic gun-lube application.
 
I lightly oil my guns just enough to stop rust. One oil i have found that doesnt turn to a gel over a long perion of time is Remoil for the internals like the trigger group. everything else i use shooters choice. It's not for everybody but it has worked well for me.
 
cant have one without the other

I use a mixture of Hoppes#9 and some white grease and paint it on with a brush after cleaning my stress relievers, i feel lube is very important.
 
Azrael256,

You are welcome sir! I figured you would appreciate that site; sent you a PM as well.

--

Relating to lubes again from Mr.Cunnignham's site: http://www.grantcunningham.com/blog_files/category-6.html

The amazing self-destructing revolvers
Friday, May 19, 2006

Stress corrosion cracking is generally caused by contamination by solvents or cutting fluids too high in chlorides. Over-torquing barrels barrels creates a stress rise at the root of the thread which makes the problem worse

>snip

However, there's always the possibility of user error, such as the use of certain products that contain chlorine compounds (brand name removed for obvious reasons):

>snip<

"Use of [lubricants containing chlorine compounds] "could" do it, as could any number of other cleaners, especially if used with an ultrasonic which enhances thread penetration."

>snip<

There are certain "miracle" gun lubricant products out there that contain chlorine compounds, and have become popular amongst the more "martial" crowd. In addition, ultrasonic cleaners have been very popular at many police agencies over the last decade or so.


Mr. Cunningham , Ed Harris are very well respected persons . These and others have shared the concerns in quote above.

MSDS can be looked up on-line.
CAS #'s can also be found online.

One may find out what they are actually using is a bit different that what is "marketed to them".

Seems some products are "re-labeled" as well.

For the firearm folks "promote this part" - for other folks [Market wanting to hit] focus on and promote what the folks want respectfully.

"Tastes Great - Less Filling"
"Genuine Imitation - Accept No Substitutes"

:)

I mean if you take a product that sells for $5 a quart [32oz] and put it in a neat bottle with a neat label, dispenser, and sell 4 ozs for $6 , umm
32/4 = 8
So Eight of them 4oz containers selling for $6 each means $48 a quart. :D

Ain't the 'Net great?

Shotguns?
Best kept secret is a 1100 in 20 ga
Another one is to keep a semi shotgun running use Dexron II ATF.

Lighter fluid is great for lubing a bolt on a Rifle.
 
Evaporation isn't an issue?
It is, but it's not *that* big of an issue. With a bolt-action rifle that isn't just pounding away, hydrodynamic lubrication is really all you need. Just something that's wet but not corrosive. If everything was stainless, water would work. I wouldn't rank it #1 as my lube solution, but it'll do if necessary.

I would advise against smoking, though.

If you really read that article carefully, you'll learn three important things. One is the chlorine thing. There is another bit in there somewhere about exploding S&W revolvers that demonstrates the chlorine problem in a dramatic fashion. Another is the difference between boundary lubrication and hydrodynamic lubrication. I found that VERY interesting. The third, and I think most important, is that everything old is new again. Oils really haven't changed much in 50 years, just the mix of stuff you find commercially. You have to use objective criteria (evaporation, resin effect, hydrodynamic vs. boundary, corrosion resistance, migration) to decide what the best lubricant is. Not all guns will like the same lubricant, and some guns will like two or three lubricants applied to different parts. The search for a good lube should be based entirely on these (and probably a few more) criteria, not the marketing hype.
 
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I use sythetic oil and grease that I got from 10-Ring, TW-25B is the grease, MC2500 the oil. I'm very happy with both and they claim extreme temperature operation (-90F-450F) but I haven't tested it in anything other than just above freezing to about 100. Worked great then though. You can order it online off of Yost's site: http://www.yost-bonitz.com/products/other_stuff/
 
what lube to use?

I use and recommend tetragun. You apply the lube and buff it off with a clean cloth. Freezing weather doesnt cause the lube to turn to glue. It lubricates without leaving a greasy layer that attracts dirt.
Dirt in grease turns the lube into an abrasive compound that wears out metal parts. Gun Notes did a nice comparison study on lubricants in the late 90's that is worth looking at if you can find it. I guess the important thing is to keep the gun clean and properly lubed no matter what you use.
Good luck and good shooting.
 
ATF is actually a pretty good product. It has pour point depressants so that it flows in cold weather. It has a pretty strong inhibitor package to stop rust, corrosion and sludge. It also has a strong antioxidant package due to the heat involved in auto transmissions.

Actually, probably the best lube would be molybdenum, but there may be some issues with the plating of the moly holding moisture. A close second would be a teflon.

I'm not sure what Rem oil has, but I've used it with good results. Seems particularly good for rust prevention.
 
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