firing pin material

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I always preferred drill rod, made to shape and hardened. Some times you run into a square or rectangular one and those also can be made from tool steel.

But for those who might not be experienced, there is more to making a firing pin than just getting something that fires a round. You need to understand what the firing pin stop is (not always the retainer pin), plus how/if there is a rebound mechanism, and (for rimfires) that the tip of the firing pin won't reach the edge of the chamber and tear it up.

Many of the old times who just used a nail ignored the latter problem, resulting in so many old guns damaged by dry firing.

A whole different area in firing pin making is the firing pin (striker) and spring guide used in many small striker fired pocket pistols. The striker often functions as an ejector, something the gunsmith needs to know. Also, if the gun is hammer fired, the firing pin has to be made so the gun won't fire if dropped on the hammer.

Jim
 
I've made quite a few firing pins over the years using oil hardening drill rod for a material.
Heat treating IS paramount though.
I made a pin for a friends Marlin 336 about 30 years ago and the pin is still fine.
Machining is ONE thing but heat treat is the biggie!
 
FWIW, some pretty prominent factories, Colt and Webley, used bronze for firing pins on auto pistols. Note that they were of the type struck by a hammer, not those which have to retain a sear notch.

Jim
 
So does Charter Arms, phosphor bronze there, I think.

The great advantage of Fatigue Proof as per my FLD and KP321 is that it does not have to be heat treated.

The usual material for things like Sharps and Winchester Single Shots with their complex forged (modern cast) firing pins is spring/piano wire soldered or glued into a hole drilled in the asymmetrical shank after the tip broke off.
 
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