First 1,000yd rifle build.

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I did some more reserch on the barrel burner issue, turns out the life ecpectency of a 6.5-284 seems to run between 900-2500rounds depending on how you load them, shoot them, and the barrel in question, that does seem to be a bit of a burner. The 300 WSM does not appear to be as bad, benchrest shooters are putting 2000-4000 through them before swapping them out. No reliable info yet on the 280AI but I am still looking, and of course another 6.5x55 is always an option even if I have to change out my bolt face to use it. I do love that old cartrage, the fact that is still very relevant in 1,000yd shooting 121 years after it's creation speaks volumes as to how well it was designed. Thanks for the load data Don :)
 
I am good out to 500 but never tried anything beyond that.

Things get real interesting real fast once you get past 600...it can be enough to make a preacher cuss at times. Mainly wind...drop is constant and once you know the trajectory it doesn't change much unless you change your altitude (other factors do apply, but thats the most significant one I think).

Wind...the darn stuff can be hard to see since air is invisible, LOL...that said, when its there, mother nature provides the best wind gauge ever devised that won't cost you one red cent....mirage...it can tell you the value, speed, and direction. But mirage isn't always there to help, then you gotta use whats available, anything from birds to grass, LOL...I've never owned a wind meter, always meant to get one...but never have...never really thought they were that useful though, they only tell you what the wind is doing there where you are..a wet finger, a pinch if dust, or a cigarette lighter can do that...

Oh...and don't skimp on the rangefinder.
 
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Yeah a few hours studying a ballistics calculator will show you how dramaticly things can change past 500yds even with an ultra high speed cartrage, and how much better heavy high BC bullets are vs lighter faster bullets, drop is pretty well a known variable if we have the distance and pressure but wind can be a game changer if it is gusting further downrange. At 1,000yd it is like quadratic equations meets lead and steel :)
 
Yep...thats why I limit myself to 600 yards for hunting...I used to go farther, and luckily I never wounded any game ("game" does not include coyotes, groundhogs, crows, etc.), but as I get older I get wiser...and I guess I finally got old enough to realize that it was bound to happen sooner or later regardless of how good I thought I was, LOL.

My longest kill shot on anything alive was a coyote....1,019 yards (308 Win)...I have taken a few deer out around 800-850 yards too, also with the 308. The 300WM would have been better suited but for some reason I just never liked shooting it as much...kicked too much I guess. Another reason for the 30-06...a compromise between the 2.

That said...I don't set out to deer hunt at 600 yards, I try to put myself closer if I can...but the place I hunt is a huge open, flat river bottom and the deer are liable to come from anywhere at any given time, the wind is usually not in my favor either and theres not much I can do except set up for the long shot (a deers nose is hard to fool)...I'll take the long shot if thats the only option, it beats eating tag soup.

I guess it falls under the old saying "you gotta play the hand you're dealt"...I'm lucky enough to have a great place to hunt (lots of deer)...but its hard to hunt because it is so open, its like hunting in Kansas or something.
 
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I would dare to suggest not building but buying the Tikka T3 Sporter in 6.5x55 and maybe selling the rifles you wanted to rebuild to fund it. Possibly better of, except when the building is supposed to be half the fun.
I to love the 6,5x55 for what we call long range. (the longest range in our country being 600 meters, and there is only one of them, all the others stretche to maximum 400 meteres)
As for lange range scopes, I use the Schmidt & Bender PMII 4-14x50, (due to the play of import/export fees & taxes, they are "cheaper" here then I would pay a comparable Leupold) and am extremly pleased with them

greetings

Peter
 
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Peter, there are no more 6.5x55 in the states I am pretty sure I got the last one. The problem with a lightweight factory rifle is that they are going to be much harder to get any performance out of 22" barrels and those light barrels will heat up way to quick to use at any event, longer heavier barrels giver more speed and dissipate alot more heat. That is why all long range match shooters use them.
 
The problem with a lightweight factory rifle is that they are going to be much harder to get any performance out of 22" barrels and those light barrels will heat up way to quick to use at any event, longer heavier barrels giver more speed and dissipate alot more heat. That is why all long range match shooters use them.

+1. My 6.5x55 Match Rifle wears a 28" AMU contour Obermeyer barrel. At the muzzle, it's just under 1" in diameter. I had Boots flute it so it wouldn't be so muzzle heavy.

Don

Win6.5x55.jpg
 
Built my 6.5x55 on a Rem long action. I did have to open the bolt face .002" to run Lapua and Winchester brass reliably. Runs really nice suppressed.

L)LA 6.5 R)SA 223



a-1.jpg
 
kachok

really depends on what type of shooting you are doing. if paper only (f-class) then my choice would be different than mostly steel. If paper only, I would take a little more recoil, that I would not choose were I going to shoot at steel, because if you have someone pulling targets for you, being able to see your own impact and trace is less important.

I won't get into the barrel burner stuff.


if paper only, look for a Nightforce benchrest 12-42x. awesome target scope for f-class. everything you need and nothing you don't. maybe pick up a used one or a demo off samplelist.com.

if practical shooting, i believe bushnell is about to come out with a FFP 4-30x HDMR with the G2 reticle, locking turrets etc. I dunno but I expect it to be well under $2k.


also, i kind of agree with you on win brass. it has irritated me greatly lately. however, i've found hornady brass just as good as lapua for my long range shooting lately.
I'm no long-range shooting expert (at all!) but I can strongly recommend that whatever scope you buy, make sure it is a pre-owned (yes used, but at those prices a more pc name is needed) one. I bought a nice one from: http://www.samplelist.com/ but there are many other places to find them. Helps with the budget. Since these are precision items, lightly used and a return policy is a good thing to look for.
B
 
Speaking of scopes...I just dropped the dime on a Vortex Viper HS 4-16x44 with the V-plex reticle.

This will be my first Vortex scope, my expectations are high...I hope its as good as everybody says it is...if it ain't, I'll put it right back in the box and return it! I've been following Vortex scopes for a couple of years...figured it was time to see what all the fuss was about.

On another note...30mm rings are freakin expensive! It cost me almost $100 for a set of TPS super low rings!
 
this is what I ordered:
Unique Alpine tpg1-A3 in 6,5x55, topped with a S&B PMII 4-14x50 with P4 reticle First Focal Plane.
26" barrel, 1 in 8 twist, 1 inch diametre, two stage match grade trigger,
With scope, barrel and ammo, it will weight in about 20 lbs.

I hope it will be home for Christmas, 1/2 year production, S&B long waiting list due to US armed forces order and local red tape.

You can expect a range report as soon as possible

Peter

this is a nice link: http://www.snipercentral.com/tpg1.htm
 

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6.5-06 is basically the same thing as a 6.5-284 Norma, they are ballistic twins in every bullet weight, biggest difference to me is that the .284 brass has a harder shoulder reducing case stretch. If I were to do a 06 brass conversion it would be the 280AI, nice 40 degree shoulder, 7mm rem mag performance, and it is not nearly as hard on barrels as most other high performance cartrages. Much like the 6.5-284 it is also known for long range accuracy, it is chambered in several long range semi- custom rifles.
 
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Join Date: October 3, 2010
Posts: 2,455 I did some more reserch on the barrel burner issue, turns out the life ecpectency of a 6.5-284 seems to run between 900-2500rounds depending on how you load them, shoot them, and the barrel in question, that does seem to be a bit of a burner

kachok,
pick out the barrel setup you want to use,and have it melonited.it will increase barrel life 2 plus fold.


http://losokcustomarms.com/
 
How would a nickle finnish prevent throat errosion in a chrome lined barrel? I always thought the chrome was harder and more wear resistant.
 
My 6.5 Gibbs outruns my 6.5x284 by a pretty good margin, the Gibbs is a maximumly improved 6.5-06. If you want performance the Gibbs will give it though the price you pay is having to form cases which takes a bit of time. They both have steep shoulders, the Gibbs has very little body taper which helps with case stretch.


left=3200fps+ with 142 SMK's right=2950fps with 142SMK's
IMG_1818.jpg
 
How would a nickle finnish prevent throat errosion in a chrome lined barrel? I always thought the chrome was harder and more wear resistant.

Melonite explained....
Salt bath ferritic nitrocarburizing
Salt bath ferritic nitrocarburizing is also known as liquid ferritic nitrocarburizing or liquid nitrocarburizing[8] and is also known by the trademarked names Tufftride[2] and Tenifer.[9]
The most simple form of this process is encompassed by the trademarked Melonite process, also known as Meli 1. It is most commonly used on steels, sintered irons, and cast irons to lower friction and improve wear and corrosion resistance.[10][11]
The process uses a salt bath of alkali cyanate. This is contained in a steel pot that has an aeration system. The cyanate thermally reacts with the surface of the workpiece to form alkali carbonate. The bath is then treated to convert the carbonate back to a cyanate. The surface formed from the reaction has a compound layer and a diffusion layer. The compound layer consists of iron, nitrogen, and oxygen, is abrasion resistant, and stable at elevated temperatures. The diffusion layer contains nitrides and carbides. The surface hardness ranges from 800 to 1500 HV depending on the steel grade. This also inversely affects the depth of the case; i.e. a high carbon steel will form a hard, but shallow case.[10]
A similar process is the trademarked Nu-Tride process, also known incorrectly as the Kolene process (which is actually the company's name), which includes a preheat and an intermediate quench cycle. The intermediate quench is an oxidizing salt bath at 400 °C (752 °F). This quench is held for 5 to 20 minutes before final quenching to room temperature. This is done to minimize distortion and to destroy any lingering cyanates or cyanides left on the workpiece.[12]
Other trademarked processes are Sursulf and Tenoplus. Sursulf has a sulfur compound in the salt bath to create surface sulfides which creates porosity in the workpiece surface. This porosity is used to contain lubrication. Tenoplus is a two-stage high-temperature process. The first stage occurs at 625 °C (1,157 °F), while the second stage occurs at 580 °C (1,076 °F).[13]

Its the finish on Glocks, Sprinfield XD's, and Smith & Wesson M&P pistols...it is a VERY durable treatment that is more than skin deep...people have had barrels done too, and with good results.

Its not quite as tough as chrome I don't think...but I may be wrong.

That said....barrels ARE expendable items, if you're gonna shoot...you're gonna wear them out...accept it!

The most I'm willing to put into extending barrel life is to use stainless steel instead of chromoly...but even that is a trade off.
 
Melonite explained....

Its the finish on Glocks, Sprinfield XD's, and Smith & Wesson M&P pistols...it is a VERY durable treatment that is more than skin deep...people have had barrels done too, and with good results.

Its not quite as tough as chrome I don't think...but I may be wrong.

That said....barrels ARE expendable items, if you're gonna shoot...you're gonna wear them out...accept it!

The most I'm willing to put into extending barrel life is to use stainless steel instead of chromoly...but even that is a trade off.
Melonite is very wear resistant. It will out live you, and is cheaper than chrome, believe it or not.
 
There are getting to be some nitrided (Melonite, etc.) service rifle bores which are said to be holding up very well.

Now if somebody is willing to guinea pig a target rifle with nitride treatment and demonstrate long accuracy life, we might have something. Why would you not pay twice as much for a barrel that would last 3 times as long? (Just to pick favorable numbers out of the air, I don't know the costs and claims.)
 
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