First AR ground up build

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JBrady555

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Just bought a Vltor Mur upper as my first part of a beginner rifle build. I just needed a new project to keep myself occupied. This will take me sometime since I've never done one before, I want it to be right and with quality parts. Lots of research going to be taking place. My first question is about my barrel. What do you guys think about 223 Wylde? Specifically a AR stoner 223 Wylde barrel. I also don't know about length or twist. I do plan to reload for this gun and I would like to do practical rifle matches at my club where shots will range from 15 yards to 300 yards. Thanks for any info.
 
http://ar15performance.com/barrels

Pick up one of those barrels, just about one of the best you will find and definitely far higher quality than most in the comparable price range. Get whatever length you feel suits your needs. They are 1/8 twist and should handle any bullet weight you want to use.
 
Take a close look at the Rainier Arms .223 Wylde barrels. They are excellent quality and reasonably priced.
 
I thought hard about Stoner on my last build, but I couldn't get past no knowing exactly who makes it. I hear it is shaw, but you never know when Midway will use a different manufacturer.

I went with Rainier Arms 16", 5R polygonal, mid length gas, 1:8, NATO, medium contour barrel. I couldn't be happier. Accurate and light.

223 wylde is good to go. It can shoot both 5.56 and 223.

For that type of competition, I would get a 16" or 18", 1:8, NATO or wylde, medium or gov profile, mid length gas.

Don't go to heavy on the buffer. Faster follow up shots are better in practical rifle or 3 gun matches. A good set up like at low mass carrier, low mass buffer and good spring will make double taps quicker. You can lighten a buffer by switching out internal weights with aluminum bar or tube. Don't skimp with homemade or cheap carriers. If you get a low mass carrier get JP. The cheaper low mass carriers can wear out your receiver. Any reduction in weight in the carrier is good. Using a semi auto vs full auto carrier will help. The lighter carrier will help reduce lock up time. A good spring is important to prevent bolt bounce. If you go real light with the carrier and buffer, you will need an adjustable gas block. So I would suggest to start with a good buffer spring, semi auto carrier and lightened buffer. Worry about a low mass carrier later. For buffer springs either Tubbs or JP.

Other important comp parts are trigger and a brake. A good 3-4lb trigger; timney or Geissele. A brake is very important to help control the muzzle during those fast double taps; rolling thunder or STC Titan. I have the Titan. I think it is the best I've shot. It is big and LOUD, but it works.

a quality name free float tube is all you need for a forend: Midwest Industries, AP customs, etc. As long as you can fit with your barrel. 12" or 15". I prefer 12" AP custom.

My build is 7lbs with scope.
 
If you are going to build an AR to compete with, find out what the rules are first. I suggest starting off with the most basic configuration and shoot it before trying anything fancy. going for special features and accessories without knowing if they'll even do you any good is a waste of money
 
Mistwolf makes a good point. The low mass recoil system can be done later as you learn more about how the recoil system works. It isn't rocket surgery, but it can be tricky. However, if you are wanting to compete often, I would start with a good barrel, trigger, brake and free float tube. Those parts are fairly safe in selecting and installing.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. This is my first build and although I do intend to do some local practical rifle matches I just want to build a stout quality rifle. I'll save the more expensive low mass stuff for my second build. I just bought my charging handle and BCG. Here is what I have so far:

Vltor MUR Upper
Bravo Company Bolt carrier group(mpi)-auto
Bravo Company Gunfighter mod 4 charging handle

Next buy will be the barrel. I would like to hear more opinions about options. I'm still thinking along the lines of 18" 223 wylde 1/8 twist. I need to know more about the best gas system length for the parts I've already got. I do know that I want a rifle length free float tube, I really like the longer look. I also think I fluted barrels look real nice even though my handguard will cover most of it.

What do you think? Would like to get more input on what I have going on. Thanks.
 
I like rifle gas system on 18" or longer, midlength on 16" and carbine shorter than 16". Regarding forends, if you want to cover the gas block on a rifle gas system, you will need a 15" tube. A 12" tube will cover a midlegth gas block.

I have never bought a fluted barrel. They make sense, but I would rather spend my money on a good quality medium profile barrel will be just as light and be just as rigid. For bench or prone shooting a heavy profile is fine.
 
I may turn this first build into a HD gun. If I go that route I'm thinking of maybe doing a pinned 14.5 barrel with enough brake to avoid nfa. Anyone care to share opinions on doing a setup like this? What brake would get me over 16" and provide the least amount of recoil/flash for low light shooting? Should I go with a 1/9 twist and 55gr bullets for over penetration issues? Or would it matter at HD distances?
 
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I prefer 1:7 for everything except 3 gun, where I like 1:8. 1:7 will stabilize up to 80 grain. 1:9 might have issue with bullets 68 grain and over. If you're only going to shoot 50-64 grain ammo, the 1:9 will do.

I cant say if a midlength will always work with midlength gas. Some have had success. YMMV. If you get something like that, get a well known barrel manufacturer that has experience with short barrels, like Daniel Defense, FN, etc. In short barrels the gas port size becomes more important to cycle reliably.
 
If you are going to reload, you will no-doubt find the 1:8 twist much more useful as it will allow you to stabilize the wonderful 75gr HPBT by Hornady :D

I have a Rainier Arms 18" SPR profile barrel with the .223 Wylde chambering and its a tack-driver for sure! With Hornady Superformance 75gr ammo I get .4" groups at 100yds all day long. With handloads I can smack a 7" plate at 605yds pretty regularly.

If you are going to stay within 300 yards, consider getting a 16" barrel. While the 18" and 20"+ barrels are great for longer-range use, you may find that for the ranges you describe a 16" is optimal. You'll save some weight on the end of your stick, which can help the rifle "feel" a bit lighter.

Also, I really recommend a free-float tube. I got a really good deal on my DD 14Lite, but I'm looking to swap my cheese-grater for a free-float tube or a keymod-type...nobody needs 14" of rail-estate!

Good luck!

P.S. This thread needs pics...here are some of the rifle I just described before I lost it in the lake yesterday :rolleyes:

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923622_659527004121493_120240108_n.jpg
 
There are two basic choices for HD
1) 16 inch barrel with a flash suppressor or compensator. Muzzle brakes are brutal and only get worse indoors. Get a 1:7 or 1:8 twist. The 5.56 has less over penetration through drywall and better terminal performance than handgun rounds

My 16" HD is a rather typical configuration- Aimpoint, sling, weapon light. It's handy even though we live in a small place
View attachment 702175

2) Build a pistol with a barrel between 10-12 inches and mount a SB15 arm brace on the lower for better control. This is the newly built Wolf Pup[/] with a 1.5 inch barrel and an Aimpoint. Still exploring options to mount a sling and a light. Again, a simple configuration and it's smaller size makes it even handier than the 16 inch for HD
View attachment 702176

A 14.5 inch barrel with a middy gas system can be particular about ammo than a 14.5 carbine or a 16 middy
 
http://ar15performance.com/barrels

Pick up one of those barrels, just about one of the best you will find and definitely far higher quality than most in the comparable price range. Get whatever length you feel suits your needs. They are 1/8 twist and should handle any bullet weight you want to use.
Damn ... I just ordered one of these and after I placed the order realized the muzzle thread is 5/8-24 ... Not 1/2 -24 and I don't have a F/H to fit it ... And I think of both of my suppressors the only one I can get a QD mount for in 5/8-24 is my 308

Oh well it's a brand new pistol build using a Seekins billet upper & lower, RRA 2-stage trigger, SiG extended pistol tube with the SiG-Tac arm-brace, Osprey defence piston system ... I've got other parts to get anyway
 
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Well I went a entire different direction with a 11.5" Bravo Company stainless barrel. Going to use a sig sb-15 for now, possibly sbr it sometime down the line. Thanks for all the replies.
 
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