I'm pretty sure I'm going to send my Ruger Hawkeye (stainless with laminate stock) to Hart Barrels (because they have a good rep and are in driving distance) to be rebarreled. I'm going to keep it chambered in .300WM. My reason for rebarreling is that I want a rifle that is easier to develop good handloads and is a joy to shoot. I know that I could sell this rifle and buy a new nice rifle probably cheaper than this project, but my rifle was a gift from my wife, so I prefer to keep it.
I've never had a project like this done before, so I'd appreciate advice (other than sell the Ruger/buy a different rifle). Here are the things I'm thinking about, but please tell me if I'm missing anything.
1. Twist rate: Should I stick with 1:10 or go 1:9? Currently the rifle shoots 165 gr bullets quite well, but I haven't found a factory or handload for 180 gr that does much better than 2" at 100. I know that 2 MOA is good enough for a hunting rifle, but I'm fortunate that I don't have to settle for good enough. I would like to shoot heavier bullets (200 gr +) for two reasons. Slower MV in .300WM is still plenty fast to allow nearly all bullets to open up but not blow up on close shots and the higher BC will be better if I ever hunt where long range (300+ yards) shots are likely.
2. Barrel length? I'm inclined to stick with the 24" that it came with. Seems like a good trade off for velocity and usability since I live in NY not the great plains.
3. Throat depth: Any help on terminology, considerations, and how to determine the proper dimension is much appreciated. Rugers have short magazines so you can't really seat a bullet near the lands and still load it into the magazine. I don't even know the proper terminology here.
4. Cerakote or Teflon or neither? I'm leaning toward just the bead blasted finish because that's what my current rifle/action are and I like it, but am open to advice.
5. Barrel profile and fluting: Any suggestions are welcome on profile and to flute or not. I've read that thicker barrel profiles are more accurate and that fluting offers the benefits of a thicker barrel but reduces weight. Hart offers several fluting styles but I'd probably go with a simple straight flute because it looks like the easiest to clean.
6. Pillar bedding? Hart offers pillar bedding. Rugers have the angled action screw. Does pillar bedding help with Rugers? This leads to the next question.
7. Keep the laminate stock or replace it (with what)? This is really a hunting rifle so I wouldn't want a tacticool stock. I also don't mind the rifle a little heavy since it is .300WM. How hard is it to modify the laminate stock if I go with a thicker barrel profile than original?
Thanks in advance for all advice on this project. I'll probably contact them in November/December to get their comments/advice but thought I'd gather the wisdom from THR first. I'm planning to deliver my rifle to them in January.
I've never had a project like this done before, so I'd appreciate advice (other than sell the Ruger/buy a different rifle). Here are the things I'm thinking about, but please tell me if I'm missing anything.
1. Twist rate: Should I stick with 1:10 or go 1:9? Currently the rifle shoots 165 gr bullets quite well, but I haven't found a factory or handload for 180 gr that does much better than 2" at 100. I know that 2 MOA is good enough for a hunting rifle, but I'm fortunate that I don't have to settle for good enough. I would like to shoot heavier bullets (200 gr +) for two reasons. Slower MV in .300WM is still plenty fast to allow nearly all bullets to open up but not blow up on close shots and the higher BC will be better if I ever hunt where long range (300+ yards) shots are likely.
2. Barrel length? I'm inclined to stick with the 24" that it came with. Seems like a good trade off for velocity and usability since I live in NY not the great plains.
3. Throat depth: Any help on terminology, considerations, and how to determine the proper dimension is much appreciated. Rugers have short magazines so you can't really seat a bullet near the lands and still load it into the magazine. I don't even know the proper terminology here.
4. Cerakote or Teflon or neither? I'm leaning toward just the bead blasted finish because that's what my current rifle/action are and I like it, but am open to advice.
5. Barrel profile and fluting: Any suggestions are welcome on profile and to flute or not. I've read that thicker barrel profiles are more accurate and that fluting offers the benefits of a thicker barrel but reduces weight. Hart offers several fluting styles but I'd probably go with a simple straight flute because it looks like the easiest to clean.
6. Pillar bedding? Hart offers pillar bedding. Rugers have the angled action screw. Does pillar bedding help with Rugers? This leads to the next question.
7. Keep the laminate stock or replace it (with what)? This is really a hunting rifle so I wouldn't want a tacticool stock. I also don't mind the rifle a little heavy since it is .300WM. How hard is it to modify the laminate stock if I go with a thicker barrel profile than original?
Thanks in advance for all advice on this project. I'll probably contact them in November/December to get their comments/advice but thought I'd gather the wisdom from THR first. I'm planning to deliver my rifle to them in January.
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