First Garand

[countertop]

Just got an email from the CMP that the Garand I ordered for BAG Day was shipped fed ex priority overnight this afternoon.

Looks like I will have a Garand tomorrow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Yaaaahhhhhooooooooooooo

 

[jefnvk]

BAG Day

Anyways, sounds like fun! Details? Make, grade, year made? We also need pics when you get it.

 

[countertop]

April 15th

Buy A Gun (to piss off a liberal) Day

 

[Guy B. Meredith]

what is the general time frame these days from notification of receipt of order to pending to delivery? Varies with type selected?

 

[jefnvk]

Man, no one let me in on buy a gun day? I'd have helped out.

 

[Guy B. Meredith]

I missed by two days with my CMP order. Does that count as a BAG purchase?

 

[B.FRANKlin]

Love is an M1

Excellent! The Garand is the finest Firearm ever created. It's easy to see why our soldiers loved them so mutch! I traded for my Springfield Armory 1941 issue a few years ago and it's my favorite. Outperforms any AR. A little hefty but that's the price of perfection. The 30'06 will kill anything worth killing, win a match, and put food on the table. (And don't bitch, whine, or complain, either!)
Mine was no CMP or import. It has a good, clean stock, "new" barrel and all SA parts. Shoots like new. That's the one gun I'll keep over all the others, although I'm keeping the others. Every loyal American should have at least one M1 Garand and get to know how they shoot, which is easy and with authority.
I've got an Auto-Ordnance 1911-A1 (parkerized) for the belt to go with it, too. As good as a Kimber without the ridiculous price!
You will love you new Garand, too! Have fun!

Shooting is the greatest stress reliever ever found. There ought to be an open season on liberals.

 

[countertop]

Its arrived. Just got the call from the wife.

I'll post pictures tonight and will be detail stripping and cleaning it this weekend (which I hope to document as well).

what is the general time frame these days from notification of receipt of order to pending to delivery? Varies with type selected?

I submitted my order on April 15th (notarized the form here in DC for delivery to Virginia - the notary at the bank had an interesting look during the process), recieved a confirmation email from them on the 21st of May and then a notice about 10 days later telling me I forgot to include a copy of my passport. I faxed that off to them about 10 days ago and it arrived today.

Interestingly, since I am going to be in Georgia next week, I called them up last week to check on the status and make sure it wouldn't be delivered while I was gone. They told me there was probably another 90 - 100 day backorder on them - (the time frame they initially claimed it would take to recieve) though in fact it took them only 30 days to get it to me (and part of that delay was my fault).

The folks at the CMP were great to deal with over the phone, BTW.

Man, no one let me in on buy a gun day? I'd have helped out.

Its a blogger thing. I promoted it on my blog heavily this year. It started with Aaron's Rant Blog a couple of years ago though. There is also Ammo Day too - which Kim Du Toit runs. Its sometime in November and the goal is to get every gun owner to buy 100 rounds on that day and show a huge spike in purchases.

I missed by two days with my CMP order. Does that count as a BAG purchase?

Sounds good to me!!

 

[countertop]

Well, its sitting on the desk in front of me.

What a gorgeous gun. I was expecting something in much worse condition but in fact am rather surprised at how nice the wood on this surplus rifle is. It doesn't all match (the stock is much lighter in color than the wood at the top of the barrel) but its in good condition nevertheless. not too much grease in it either - no cosmoline ype crap to speak of - just a healthy coating of oil. I'm gonna clean it up good Saturday afternoon and then head out to the range with it Sunday morning (after hitting the E. Ridge, TN gun show and getting some ammo)

Anyway, the details

Its a Springfield.
Serial number is 872***

Any idea when that was made?

Took me 40 days to receive it, and thats including a 2 week delay because my application wasn't complete (forgot to copy my passport)

Next purchase - A springfield 1903 - though the Kimber Match Target .22s the CMP is selling look real nice too.

 

[countertop]

RE my serial number - I just checked this page and its chart puts my springfield manufacture in September of 1942

Could that be correct? Does that mean this is a WWII gun?
What is the value of it if it is (considering I paid $375 for it)(not that I would sell it, but I might hold off on really customizing it)

 

[ocabj]

Well, according to the Scott Duff data, the last serial number used in September of 1942 was 872343. So if it's 872343 or before, then it's a Sept 42 rifle. If it's after 872343, then it's an October 1942 rifle.

In order for a Garand to have increased monetary value to collectors, you'll need to make it 'correct'. This means you need to get all the parts with the appropriate drawing/revision numbers for that specific date of rifle.

You should definitely buy the Scott Duff books:

The M1 Garand: World War II (2nd Edition)
The M1 Garand: Post World War II
The M1 Garand: Owner's Guide
The M1 Garand: Serial Numbers & Data Sheets

The 4th book is more of a pocket guide. It's handy to have if you go to gun shows or what not shopping for a Garand and want to know if a particular rifle has the correct parts.

I highly recommend you strip the rifle completely and verify that all the parts are in working condition and cleaned before shooting it. That's also a good time to fill out a data sheet to record what parts you have so if you decide to make it 'correct' you know what you need to change out (and you'll also know what you have as far as trade bait). After you clean it, be sure to grease all the appropriate points (white/beige wheel bearing grease works fine).

Remember: Gun oil is not a substitute for grease.

It is critical to grease the Garand properly (ie: op rod channel, op rod cut, bolt channel, lugs, hammer, etc) to ensure the rifle functions properly and so you don't damage the rifle.

 

[countertop]

Thanks

I haven't seen any mention of grease in the book that came with the gun.

Is there a good web page that details everything I need to do before shooting it?

 

[ocabj]

For info on detail stripping check out: http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com

As far as grease points, I remember seeing pictures on a website but I can't remember where. Here's some text instructions: http://www.odcmp.com/Services/Rifles/care_and_cleaning_of_your_m1.htm

As far as grease is concerned, Garand enthusiasts like to tout plastilube since they make a milspec grease which is available through Brownells. But frankly, wheel bearing grease works great since it's designed for high temps and you can get it at any auto parts store. So don't worry about having to order 'special' grease.

My personal tips for shooting the first time:

1. You need to make sure that the gas cylinder is clean and bone dry. No oil, grease, or debris.

2. I'd try loosening up that front sight screw before you go to range. Sometimes that screw is a pain to get off. A lot easier to try and make sure it unscrews in the garage rather than on the firing line. Take off the front sight screw and front sight. Clean the both as well as the front sight base. Cleaning the crud (and breaking the front sight loose after it being screwed on so tight after so many years) will help make it easier to adjust when sighting it in.

3. Bring a flat head screwdriver that fits the gas cylinder screw and make sure that screw stays tight before and after firing. You'll probably want to get a combo tool or a gas cylinder screw wrench just so you can more torque on it when tightening it up.

 

[fredcwdoc]

$375? I assume you have gotten a rack grade Greek? I would not mess with it to much except to bring it back to the original WW2 condition. Good luck and have fun doing it. I have two that I have been working on for the last few months and have them correct except for the op rods.

 

[countertop]

$375? I assume you have gotten a rack grade Greek? I would not mess with it to much except to bring it back to the original WW2 condition. Good luck and have fun doing it. I have two that I have been working on for the last few months and have them correct except for the op rods.

Its a field grade M1 Garand, Springfield Armory USGI Issue. Its not a Greek or Danish rifle. This was the new catagory they just started.

From the CMP's web page :

Field Grade rifles are mechanically the same as Service Grade, except that throat erosion will be 5 or less on gauge, but muzzle wear may be over a 3 on a muzzle gauge. Selection below only guarantees the receiver was produced by the manufacturer listed. All other parts may have been produced by other manufacturers. Shipping and Handling $20.95 per rifle.

 

[Swampy]

countertop,

Nice M1. congrats.

Collector value at this point is not going to be high, even with a 1942 made receiver. Your rifle has undoubtedly been through one or more rebuilds by now, as 99.9% of them have. The birch buttstock on yours is a 1950's and 60''s replacement item, the rear sight knobs are the later style ('45 and later). Other parts may also be rebuild items but those two are readily identifiable in the photos.

When you break it down, write down all the part-drawing numbers and markings you find and post them back here. We can help you determine originality.

You can immediately pull the op-rod back and look at the side of the barrels chamber for the maker and mfg. date of the barrel. Should be something like: SA 3-43, or HRA 2-56. If you don't see anything behind the op-rod, it'll be under the rear handguard... which you'll have to removed to read it. If you find a barrel with SA and any year in the '60's, count yourself lucky. Those SA 60's replacement barrels are very sweet shooters.

Also look on the side of the receiver legs for any electro pencil engraving. If there, might be the initials of a rebuild facility and a month-year.

Best regards,
Swampy

Garands forever

 

[countertop]

Thanks Swampy

Gonna take the thing completely apart on Saturday afternoon. My father in law used to teach marksmanship on them early in his military career in the 60s but hasnt really worked with one in 40 years or so. He is looking forward to helping me and seeing what he still remembers.

I'll keep you guys posted.

 

[jefnvk]

In order for a Garand to have increased monetary value to collectors, you'll need to make it 'correct'. This means you need to get all the parts with the appropriate drawing/revision numbers for that specific date of rifle.

Take a walk arouind a gunshop or gun show sometime. M1's seem to be a big thing right now. Lots of people don't know about CMP, and would gladly pay $500 for that rifle, simply because it is cheaper than all the other M1's out there.

The gun is well worth the $375, if you ever decide to get rid of it, you'll easily get your money back out of it, plus some extra.

 

[JonnyB]

I bought a CMP M1 several years ago. Back then, mine was known as a "Select Grade". It cost $550 and a 6-month wait. It was worth every dollar and every day!

It's a 1944 SA receiver, rebuilt in May 1965 with a 5-65 SA barrell. The receiver's engraved with the SA 5-65 on the side. I believe, based upon the condition, that it was rebuilt, test-fired and put in the rack. It's new!

The only complaint is that a sanding zealot got ahold of the stock. Every cartouche has been sanded off and the portion at the rear of the receiver is undercut.

I like this rifle a lot. It's a very good shooter. I hope you enoy yours as much!

JB

 

[countertop]

A Message From Upstairs

When I ordered my Garand I forget to get ammo with it. I figured, that wouldnt be a problem cause there is a great store in Chickamauga Georgia for buying surplus ammo and guns and stuff. Well, as we drove into town today I decided to stop off and buy some before heading out to the range.

Mistake.

Turns out that all they have is corrosive Korean surplus. Not the end of the world, but certainly not what I am going to use the first time I shoot my Garand. Now, there is a gun show here in the Chattanooga area this weekend, but I amdoubtful of my ability to get there tomorrow, which might mean I have to wait some time before shooting the garand.

At least thats what I thought. Anyway, I purchased 3 20 packs of 30. Cal ammo and proceeded to our house when something magical happened. After unpacking the car, as we were putting clothes away and cleaning up a little, I moved some things in one of the closet, and what should fall out but a bunch of loaded Garand clips with carboard sleeves over the bullets. I'm a bit shocked to sumble on these and my father in law looks at them and says

Huh! They must have been some spares I had in my pocket. I bet they've been sitting there for over 40 years.

And so, with that, my Garand wil be able to fire - not surplus - leftover US Cal. 30 ammo straight from uncle sam by way of the spare bedroom closet.

 

[ocabj]

Order a case of 960 rounds of LC from the CMP for $230 out the door.

It's $230, but you won't regret getting the case. Be sure to get a primer pocket swager so you can reload the brass. Or better yet, send the brass to me.

 

[jefnvk]

Just remember that a lot of US ammo was corrosive, make sure you know its condition.

 

[Slimjim]

Most US ammo after 1952 was non corrosive. Unless your shooting something special, but ball was non corrosive after 52.

Nice garand, im assumeing you havent gotten m1 thumb yet have you?
I love my garand, i just dont have ammo for it.

 

[countertop]

Well,

Looks like I was mistaken. The Korean stuff that they had at Classic Pawn in Chickamauga isn't corrosive - though I've cleaned the Garand out rather well after shooting it.

Took me awhile to put it together properly after taking it apart the first time. but it shoot like a beauty and is far more accurate than I am (2 1/2 inch groups at 100 yards on sandbags - 23 of 24 rounds on a pie plate off hand at 100 yards)

I like the look of the birch stock, but also like the traditional walnut look. What I don't like is the way they look mixed together. Would it be easier for me to get a new walnut stock or a birch front end? Who should I buy it from (considering that cost is a factor and I want something that is pretty much ready to use out of the box)?

Thanks

 

[Sheldon]

The KA headstamped Korean ammo seems to be accepted as mildly corrosive and the PS stamped as non-corrosive.