First Handgun - What to get?

[Blain]

Ok, I finally recieved my class A license from my towns police chief, though the nazis still won't let me carry.

Now I can buy handguns. This brings me to an interesting development as I have neer bought a handgn before. I am not really all that into handguns and am more a fan of long guns. I am not too familiar with hanguns. However, I know I want one and need one. I will most likely get more than one, but what should I look for in my very first handgun? I need to know the following criteria.

1. What calibers should I get?
2. Revolver or semi?
3. What brands to buy/avoid?
4. What prices the recommended guns/brands go for (new and used) so I don't get ripped off. Dealers around here will take you for all you're worth if they think they can.
5. What barrel length?
6. What accessories do I need, cleaning and otherwise?
7. Anything else you think I should know?


This being my first handgun I REALLY want to make sure that I do it right the first time. I also need to know the market value for certain guns so I don't end up paying $550 for a .45 Ruger! I might be tempted to buy one as soon as tomorrow so any help would be much appreciated!

 

[Jason Demond]

Revolver

A revolver is always a good first gun. I would go for a S&W Kframe in .38 Special.

 

[denfoote]

Hi Blain,
Funny you should mention Ruger!! They make a good first handgun. If the P97, .45ACP, is on the MA (I assume that is where you are) approved list, then I would pick one of those up!! A good starter 9mm would be the P95!! Both should be well under $500!! I spent $350 for the P95 in '97 and just recently spent $408 for the P97.

Did you ever get your shotgun barrel chromed???

 

[Blain]

S&W Kframe in .38 Special.

These run around how much$????????

 

[caz223]

I'd say get a wheelgun first.
A nice ruger GP100 or smith 686 .357 magnum.
4" barrel lengths seem to be a good all-purpose compromise.
A very good alternate would be a smith 610 with a 4" barrel.
10mm power, can also shoot .40 s&w for practice.
Very accurate.
Moon clips for quick loading.
Fun at the range, very good for home defense.
Ammo can be had locally, and for not a lot of money.


***EDIT***
Ruger GP100 series run around $425 locally here.
S&W wheels run between $550-$600
Used, in good shape, a little less than a new ruger.
Both can be had for less money if you have a little patience, and carry cash.

 

[Blain]

So how much do such guns cost, as I want to make sure I do not get ripped off. Did you say that 10mm guns can shoot both 10mm and 40 cal?!?!?! If so that seems like a nice option to have! Kind of like how .357 can also fire .38 specials!

 

[caz223]

The smith 610 can shoot both 10mm and .40 s&w.
The 10mm autos cannot.
It's a function of headspacing on the moonclip that makes it possible in a wheelgun.

 

[XavierBreath]

Go to a rental range if possible, and shoot each one there. Read a bit. Research a bit. Everyone has their favorite, but that pistol might not be right for YOU. In the end, it's the shooting that counts, not the pistol. A pistol is only a bullet delivery system.

For a first pistol, I recommend a .22 such as a Ruger or Buckmark to learn the shooting basics with. That may be the best $250 you will ever spend on a gun (around $150 if you buy used). Once you can hit consistently, move up. If you do not learn to shoot, no pistol can make you into a better shooter. Use Auction Arms or Gun Broker to check prices. Take a NRA course on handgun safety. The instructors will help you with your shooting skills as well.

Put $500 away to invest in a quality pistol. You will not be disappointed. Expect to pay between $400 to $700. There is nothing worse than having to fight a pistol while learning to shoot.

Have Fun.

 

[oscar]

A good 22 revolver. After you learn that, a 38 of the same type.

 

[TheMariner]

If you plan on using autoloaders for SD and what not... Might as well buy an autoloader and forego revolvers... I didn't shoot a revolver until 13, but had already spent 5 years with autoloaders.

Trust me, you won't miss them and I found that going from autoloader to revolver is easier than the reverse... going from complex to simple always is...

Autoloaders have a steep learning curve.... you must practice and understand it. I'm not going to go into all that "picturing and training with the weapon as an extension of your body" bull crap... Authors write that poppycock to make their characters seem cool... Just know the wep down pat and let your subconscious take care of the rest...

 

[WingZero]

I would go with a semi-auto in either 9mm, or 45acp.
I would look into Glock, Kimber, or Sig.
Thats my opinion.
Hope it helps.

 

[Jeff]

I think a revolver is good first choice, especially if you are not really a "handgun" kind of person. I know a few people-- hunters and such-- who are not really into handguns, but if they do own one, it is almost always a wheelgun.

The Ruger GP100 is a very nice first revolver. 4" barrel, as suggested by someone else, is an all purpose length.

Caliber should be .357. It is as versatile a handgun round as you can get. Powerful, relatively flat shooting, economical. Not too much recoil. And, of course, with a .357 magnum handgun, you can fire .38 special ammo in it, without any modification.

Choice: Ruger GP100 stainless steel 4" barrel in .357 magnum.

 

[sig970]

I too would pick up a revolver as a first handgun. Very straight forward. Easy, accurate, fun.

Glock Sig Kimber???? Al good but.....

DAO
DA/SA
SA

Three completely different trigger systems to learn????

TRY before you buy if you can is my opinion.

 

[Waitone]

Figure out how you want to use it. That'll point you in any of several directions.

When you get to the point of drooling on the display case, tear yourself away and spend time over at the ammo rack.

There is the cost of a purchase, then there is the cost of ownership. Ammo prices vary greatly.

.22LR at Huge-Mart goes for $10 / 550 rounds.

.38 spl can go for $10 / 50 rounds

9 mm on sale can go for $5.50 / 50 rounds.

.357 mag can go for $15 / 50 rounds

.45 ACP steet price is $14 / 50 rounds

So how good you wanna get. I tend to shoot more of the smaller calibers. 100 rounds of .45 acp is a good workout. I found out I couldn't afford to get good with a .45 acp so I started reloading.

 

[Sir Galahad]

For your first handgun, if it's a revolver you want, then I suggest a Smith & Wesson .500 Magnum or a Magnum Research BFR in .45/70. If it's an auto you want, then I suggest the Desert Eagle in .50AE. Any of these fine firearms would make a perfect first handgun.

 

[Blain]

Well I just came back from the gunstore. The guy showed me what he recommended for a good carry gun. the pistols he picked out were the following.

1. S&W CS40
.40 Caliber with a 3 1/4" barrel stainless
Comes with two seven round mags for $450

He also had the same gun in .45 for $500. They were both very small, light, and compact. I like both .40 and .45 calibers, so I am having a hard time deciding which I would like better. Before I bought one I had to narrow down which caliber was best, and if that price is good for that gun, and if that gun is good!

.40 vs. .45...... tough decision. They both use 7 round mags, right?


Another gun he showed me that I liked a bit was,

2. Walter P99
.40 SW with a 4" barrel. It can hold 10 rounds.

The stainless/black one was $500, and the all black one was only $400! This was also a very nice gun, and even cheaper than the smaller one! (It also held more rounds) Is this a good pistol and a good price? Which out of those pistols I listed would you prefere and in what order? The small one is really small and easy to conceal, the larger one is a bit harder, but has a larger capacity. What do you guys, who know these guns a lot better than I do, think?

 

[.45FMJoe]

HAHAHA at the DE and S&W .500 Good stuff. A revolver would be a good choice, I lean towards anything that says Colt on it myself. If not a revolver than a good 1911 or how about a Glock?

My first handgun was a .45. Expensive as hell to shoot compared to my 9mm Glock. Wal-Mart 100 round value pack of winchester white box (9mm) is $10 compared to $13 for a box of 50 .45acp.

 

[Sean Smith]

(small, light & compact) + (.40 or .45 caliber) = nasty recoil.

Since you can't carry it anyway, you have ZERO reason to get a small, light gun that will kick harder and, probably, be less accurate. Even less than zero since you are a handgun newbie... rifle experience won't do squat for you as far as shooting handguns goes. The guy's suggestions for you were dopey, though the guns aren't bad per se.

My suggestion: get a full-sized gun in 9x19mm. Pick from any of the following for maximum enjoyment:

Beretta 92FS/G/D/Vertec/Elite/Elite II
SigSauer P226
Glock 17 or 34
CZ-75B/BD

If you think 9mm makes you a sissy, remember that SEALS and SAS shoot alot of 9mm from their P226's. 9mm +P has the same muzzle energy as most .45 ammo. And if you can find it, Winchester 127gr +P+ is seriously hot stuff.

9mm ammo is also way cheap, so you can do more shooting for the dollar and build your skills faster. From there, move up to bigger boomers if you want, or just save all your money for a P7 or SIG P210.

The other good choice is a .357 Magnum revolver, since you can get tons of .38 Special ammo for way cheap, and use the .357 stuff for more serious work. No reason to go light-n-tiny either. Get either a Smith & Wesson 686, or a Ruger GP 100, 4"+ barrels. Used S&W 19 and 66 models are nice if you can find a good deal on a used one.

 

[Blain]

Just because the nazis/Reds don't want me to defend myself doesn't mean I will put my life in jeapordy.

Anyway, what do you think of the Walther P99? It is larger than the CS', has a 4" barrel and a 10 round mag. IT is $500 for the stainless steel version and $400 for the black one. Is the SS version worth $100 more? Just what warrents such a price increase? Pretty looks? $400 seems like a great deal for such a pistol as it is even cheaper than the police specials.....

Think if I offer cash on the table he will knock off $50 from the price?

 

[XavierBreath]

Your first post led me to believe you would not carry, but your next implies you plan to carry. Your number of posts leads me to believe you have a bit of experience with firearms. Do not carry illegally. If you live in a shall issue state and have a clean record, you cannot be refused. Go here to learn more. http://www.packing.org/

If you plan to carry the weapon, caliber is important. .40S&W or .45ACP are what I consider minimum to stop a threat under stress. Some say 9mm, some say .380. I call that a compromise. The average number of shots fired in self defense is three. At 7 rounds plus one in the chamber, a .45 is adequate in most situations, especially if you have a spare mag on your belt.

As with any firearm, it's purpose determines your choice. For a carry weapon, I require minmum .40S&W, absolute reliability with JHP, quick sights, adequate accuracy, and ease of concealment. The only time I compromise any of these is if my mode of dress does not allow concealment. In scrubs or scivies, I carry a P32. I drop the caliber to get concealment. Any other time my carry weapon is a HK USPc in .40S&W. It holds 10 rounds. I have also carried a Beretta Mini-Cougar in .40S&W (10 or 6 rounds, depending on magazine), and Commander sized .45's (7 rds).

Remember that no pistol is inherently "better" than another if they both can do what you need them to do. The real determining factor is what you will use the gun for. Everyone has a favorite, and will say this one is great, that one is superior. If you feel the need to learn handgun basics, get a .22 to learn with. Trade it in later, or use it to teach others with later. If you feel you can skip the learning phase, and want a carry weapon, look towards the .40s and .45s. From your selections it appears you are still deciding what you will use the gun for, and still need to shoot a few loaners and rentals to determine which type of action you prefer. Once you determine use and prefered action, your selection will be narrowed down considerably. Then you can start looking at price, reliability, accuracy, whatever. Right now, there are simply to many choices and variables.

Keep in mind that 99.9% of gun shop owners will try to sell you what they have in stock. Do your research (hands on and written) and ask him to order what you want. If he refuses, go elsewhere.

 

[Blain]

Just curious, Xavier, how does the .40s muzzle energy compare to te .45s? I have heard that the .40 is very close to that of the 45's, but out of a short barrel the .40 is better because the heavier bullet of the .45 can't get enough velocity to be effective.

 

[XavierBreath]

I'm not sure Blain, I'm no ballistics man. I do see a lot of gunshot wounds working in the ER over the years though, and base my choices on that. I also tend to carry the same type of ammo as the local police as well, to prevent an attorney from claiming I had special "killer" bullets. I have heard some ballistics guys say the ballistics are similar, others say better, still others call the .40S&W short and weak. I see it as a decent compromise to get magazine capacity along with an effective round. Both damage a lot of tissue.

What I have seen in the ER leads me to believe that the terminal ballistics of the .40S&W and .45ACP are similar, and the damage done has more to do with mass and expandability of the bullet than muzzle velocity. Many more people shot with a .40 or .45 are DOA, the numbers drop as bullet mass drops. Of course the number of bullet wounds has a big impact, but that can trip you up in court later. It's easier for a jury to aquit with two .45 shots than four 9mm. As the number of shots goes up, the defensibility of the shooting goes down.

FWIW, stainless is worthwhile if you want to checker the frame, or melt the edges, as you do not have to refinish. It does not wear away like bluing, and carry weapons get a lot of holster wear. It also is less susceptible to rust from your sweat. Other than that, it's what you like to look at. A stainless slide on a polymer frame would wear better if you sweat a lot, and if the weapon may get wet from the rain, or whatever.

 

[AirPower]

For first time, get a .22LR so you don't have to worry about recoil, it'll be a good 1st choice. I'd suggest the Walther P22, and then later you can upgrade to the P99 9mm, the handling are similar.

 

[Akurat]

9mm. Cheap ammo, hi-cap, great stopping power, low recoil.

You can't go wrong with the flagships from these manufacturers, some will fit your hand better than others...but all will fire reliably and accurately, for years to come, without waiver:

Beretta, Ruger, Glock, SIG, CZ, HK, Springfield XD.

 

[David4516]

I would buy two cheaper handguns if I were you. I'd get a Ruger .22

http://www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/FAProdView?model=173&return=Y

And a Makarov.

http://www.makarov.com

Both cost around $150 to $200, and are very well made.

My Makarov is my carry gun. I like it because it is cheap to shoot, 100% dependable, and small enough for carry. They are avablible in 2 calibers, .380 and 9mm Makarov (aka 9X18 ). These are not 'powerful' rounds but they will get the job done. 9mm Makarov is between .380 and 9mm Luger on the power scale.

The .22 will be good for plinking.

Remember, just because Gun X costs more than Gun Y doesn't make it a better gun. You should think very carefully about Exactly what you want your handgun to be able to do. Then go and buy one. It's not a good idea to just say "I feel like getting a handgun" and buy one because it looks cool or somthing. Your life might depend on it someday, so be sure to get one thats right for you...