I just picked up my first Mosin, a Finn M91. The pics below are from the seller. The barrel looks pretty good after running a bore snake through it. It is shiny with strong rifling. The barrel is marked SA, VKT, B, D. The serial number on the barrel, receiver and bolt match. There is a second serial number on the receiver, but in a different font. There is also a very faint A on the receiver a bit past the second serial number. It is hard to see in the picture, but the barrel also has a Belgian Liege proof. The stock has a cross canon with a Z in the middle. There is also a D on the buttstock. In front of the trigger is a V and K on the stock. The stock has two pieces. On the left of the rear sight, the numbers 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 have been crossed off. The numbers 3, 4, 5 1/2, 7, 8 1/2 are marked on the other side. I am very new to Mosins and don't know what all of the above means (some I have found on http://mosinnagant.net/finland/default.asp and http://7.62x54r.net/). Now, I need to get some ammo and take it to the range.
First Mosin w/Pics
- Thread starter Shrevy
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gunsandreligion
Member
Thats a sweet gun, I'v always wanted one but never got around to getting one.
george1108
Member
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- Oct 22, 2009
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new Mosin
That is truly a sweet pece of history that you have there, and good pics too.
7.62x54r.net will answer all of your questions and it is worth the time spent there to explore it completely.
two good sources of ammo on the east coast are aimsurplus and wideners.
I hope that you enjoy the rifle. I have several varieties of Finn and Russian and they are lots of fun. For me the Finns shoot better and have better triggers.
That is truly a sweet pece of history that you have there, and good pics too.
7.62x54r.net will answer all of your questions and it is worth the time spent there to explore it completely.
two good sources of ammo on the east coast are aimsurplus and wideners.
I hope that you enjoy the rifle. I have several varieties of Finn and Russian and they are lots of fun. For me the Finns shoot better and have better triggers.
The crossed out numbers on the side are Soviet distances in archins. They have been replaced by the Finns with number ranges in hundreds of meters. You have a relatively rare B-barrel M91 assembled by Valmet. That is one that has been on my wish list for some time now. The z-mark on the butt stock is a stock manufacturer mark. It should be a finger spliced stock.
Mr_Pale_Horse
Member
That is one clumsy pool cue 
stchman
Member
Where did you get it and how much?
GD: The stock does have wood "fingers" that interlace. I assume this is the finger spliced stock? The stock does look like it has been sanded in some parts. There is a lot of grime and I'm note sure the sanding was even done on the wood, maybe just the grime. Is the second serial number on the receiver an old Russian serial number?
chuwee81: The bore looked pretty good when I picked it up. I ran a bore snake through it three times and it is almost as bright as my 1903A3. I am pleased. I tried to get a pic of the bore, but I always have trouble getting a clear picture.
stchman: I purchased it locally for $300.
chuwee81: The bore looked pretty good when I picked it up. I ran a bore snake through it three times and it is almost as bright as my 1903A3. I am pleased. I tried to get a pic of the bore, but I always have trouble getting a clear picture.
stchman: I purchased it locally for $300.
LJ-MosinFreak-Buck
Member
Very nice! I'll show you my first mosin! Grant it, I've had it for a couple years now, lol!
Before (This is how it looked when I bought it):
After:
Before (This is how it looked when I bought it):
After:
Starship1st
Member
Hey LJ what did you use to clean up your rifle and bring out the wood so well?
Cosmoline
Member
EXCELLENT choice Shrevy! You have one of the classics there. I would not refinish that particular one. It looks to has a very nice and intact Finnish black stain. I would at most give a light cleaning with a rag either dry or slightly damp, just to remove any surface grit, then I would protect the existing stain with gunstock wax.
Shoot an array of 54R to see what it likes. Most of the late model M91's I've shot were much more accurate with light ball, which by that point was flooding the Finnish arsenals due to the massive amounts captured from the Rooskies. But I've only had them with Tikka barrels so yours may be different.
The one shortcoming of the M91 is that ultra fine sight that lay so low on the barrel. Of course Hayha used the same kind of old sights on his M28 so they do have the advantage of precision--if your eyes are younger than mine ;-)
Shoot an array of 54R to see what it likes. Most of the late model M91's I've shot were much more accurate with light ball, which by that point was flooding the Finnish arsenals due to the massive amounts captured from the Rooskies. But I've only had them with Tikka barrels so yours may be different.
The one shortcoming of the M91 is that ultra fine sight that lay so low on the barrel. Of course Hayha used the same kind of old sights on his M28 so they do have the advantage of precision--if your eyes are younger than mine ;-)
Thanks Cosmoline. The stock is "oily" to the touch. It is not wet by any means, but just handling the rifle will put a residue on your hands. If I run my hands under water after holding it for a few minutes, the water beads up on my hands as if they have been waxed. None of my other military surplus stocks is like that. I prefer not to do anything with my stocks. I think a "dirty" stock looks better than one that has been cleaned. I want my guns to look like they are 60 years old and have been through hell, because they have...that is the appeal of these things to me. If I use a wet rag, should I use soap too? Dish soap?
LJ-MosinFreak-Buck
Member
Stripped, sanded, stained in 5 coats of Red Oak 215(? IFRC) and 4 coats tung oil. Sure looks beautiful doesn't she?
And sorry Shrevy, don't wanna jack your thread.
And sorry Shrevy, don't wanna jack your thread.
Cosmoline
Member
The oily substance is likely residual cosmoline, but with the existing finish on there it won't have soaked in like it does with unfinished woods. I've seen it before. Some paper towels will help clear it off and maybe a damp rag. Worst case you can use some oil soap. It will also work itself off over time--it should just be sitting on the original Finn mix finish. The more dramatic anti-cosmoline measures will harm your underlying finish.
I've always thought it was pine tar that gave it the black, but others hold it to be a chemical agent they dipped the stocks in. Whatever it is, it's tough to replicate once its gone.
I've always thought it was pine tar that gave it the black, but others hold it to be a chemical agent they dipped the stocks in. Whatever it is, it's tough to replicate once its gone.
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