Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by bsparker, May 18, 2021.
might be a hair too much?
But, the case isn't buckled.
Good lookin' round.
Have fun emptying it...
I backed it off a bit, feels better. I might back it off some more after I test these out. It’ll be fired out of a heavy S&W 686 so the extra crimp shouldn’t create much of an impact.
I definitely want the brass to last so less of a crimp for future reloads.
Over crimping is bad though, it will damage the bullet and lead to poor accuracy or even bullets moving around in the case, over crimping loosens neck tension and deform bullets.
Those look heavy but not overly so, you can back off a fair bit and they'll still shoot great in a 38
Those look a lot like mine, and I love how mine shoot. That is looking good!
Let us know if you notice a difference down range between crimp level, always good to hear how things perform. I hope it's a good fun load for you.
Some bullets are designed with small, narrow crimp grooves while other have large, deep, angled crimp grooves. What good is a roll crimp if the mouth of the case is not crimped enough to touch the bullet in the deep angled crimp grooves???
Myself I crimp everything like the crimp you used in the 1st post. Using that heavy crimp does 2 things for you:
It equalizes the short start press of your loads. This in turn lowers your es's and sd's which lead to consistency/accuracy.
It takes case neck tension out of play. Everyone talks about longer case life. Myself I rather shoot flies for 15 reloads than hit the paper plate the flies are landing on for 30 reloads.
Those targets pictured above are an excellent example of what happens if you rely on case neck tension rather then a solid crimp when using mixed range brass that's been around too long. WWWWOOOOWWWWW!!!! My cases last forever because I use a lite crimp!!!!
I was playing around with a 686 using 357 cases looking for a plinking load with a h&g #41 110gr wc bullet. The h&g 41 & 50 wc's have a small shallow crimp groove and rely on neck tension to hold the bullet in place while the short start pressure builds so the powder gets an even/consistent burn. The H&G 41 (left) & H&G #50 (2nd from left).
Those targets pictured above show large groups with fliers. They are actually 3/4 shots in a group with 2/3 fliers for the 6-shot group @ 50ft.
The 357 brass I was using was the junk I throw into a box and use it for 25ft bowling pins. It looked like the puppy played with it for a week or 2. BUT my brass lasts forever!!! Can't hit nothing with it but dirt clods or bowling pins @ 10 paces, but I'm saving $$$ on brass.
Let your target tell you what works and what doesn't. Chronographs are always a good thing and will pick up on if changes in crimp will affect the consistency of your reloads. The other thing to keep in mind is powders like bullseye, hp-38, zip are a lot less picky about things like crimp & neck tension. Get into powders like universal, unique, hs-6 things get interesting.
This is why I use a heavy crimp on every 38spl/357/44spl/44mag that I reload. Could care less about how long brass lasts, I want to hit shotgun shells @ 50ft, golf balls @ 25yds, tennis balls @ 50yds & clay pigeons on the berm @ 100yds.
trail boss seems a bit dirty though, but fun and easy to work with.
I’ll likely stick at 3.9gr of trail boss under the acme 158gr SWC in a .38 case. I’m interested to see what things feel like in a .357 case with the appropriate powder levels.
Make a ladder and look for accuracy. That's the game of finding a good load.
Welcome Aboard !
Make a "ladder" out of 5-8 cartridges each, loaded progressively higher, using increments of ~0.2gr. Then shoot each 5-8 round group at a fresh target. The best load for your gun will be plain as day when you compare the targets.
Hope this helps.
had something similar, 5 rounds in each row representing an increased charge of .3gr. Saw another member recommend this and it helped keep everything straight at the range. I might reproduce this again and try a second time now that I have a better sense of the crimp and see if I notice a difference.
I like to mark my box and my loads with a simple label made with masking tape.
This eliminates confusion. Any step that adds clarity is 'gooder'.
Afterwards, the tape can be transferred to the target to help with a positive ID.
I like the tape idea. I’m all about getting gooder. Thanks
very much appreciate you helping me get set up!
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