First time AR-15 buying advice

[fanchisimo]

I would say start paying attention to Palmetto State Armory sales. If you wait you can pick up a complete rifle for Sub $600 Like here is a complete lower for $170.

http://palmettostatearmory.com/inde...tm_campaign=Constant+Contact&utm_medium=email

Then just get a complete upper for $370 here

http://palmettostatearmory.com/inde...ped-upper-with-bcg-and-charging-handle-1.html

Then you have a good rifle for ~540 probably 570 after S/H and FFL fees.

That leaves $430 for some mags, a rear sight, ammo, and/or customization.

You can also but a blem lower right now for $50 and then build your lower from scratch with the parts you want.

 

[SpookyEng]

I really appreciate the advice so far! Honestly, I am more of a plinking-type shooter than anything at this time. I do plan to go (most likely deer) hunting in the semi near future, I have some friends who are going to show me the ropes. As for hunting, I live in Kentucky and you can use rifles and I do not think there is a magazine limit here. Can anyone tell me what makes the Colt worth ~$400 more than the S&W? Am I just paying for the name or is it really twice the gun?

Yes- better fit and finish, 4150 HPT/MP barrel, proper MPI/HPT bolt, H buffer, 7075 receiver extension and if you ever want to sell it, unsurpassed resale at its price point.

 

[ugaarguy]

Yes- better fit and finish, 4150 HPT/MP barrel, proper MPI/HPT bolt, H buffer, 7075 receiver extension and if you ever want to sell it, unsurpassed resale at its price point.

The fit and finish on current S&W rifles is every bit as good as Colt. All S&W M&P-15 rifles use HPT/MPI bolts. An HPT/MPI 4150 steel bbl isn't going to make a difference to a recreational shooter. S&W also nitrocarburizes their bbls instead of chrome lining them. AAC found nitrocarburizing (aka Black Nitride, Tennifer/Melonite/Tufftride) to be just as corrosion resistant as hard chrome lining, but more durable than hard chrome lining, and it doesn't cause the barrel ID to vary because of thickness variances in even the best hard chrome lining. I'd have to email S&W to see which alloy they use on their receiver extensions. The H Buffer isn't necessary unless you're having extraction problems, and I've yet to see an M&P-15 that needed one.

The corners that S&W truly cuts on the Sport (but not on their other rifles) are the deletion of the dust cover and forward assist on the upper, the hand guards that aren't heat shielded, and the change to a trigger guard that's integral to the forging on the lower receiver.

Now, is the Colt 6920 worth the price? Yes, absolutely, if one needs or wants a heavy duty professional or competition use carbine. But is it worth the price for someone looking for a light to medium duty recreational carbine? Probably not.

 

[Armybrat]

I bought my S&W M&P 15 Sport from here - $579 + $5.99 shipping:

http://grabagun.com/catalog/product/view/id/11888/category/70/

Excellent buy for the money & very well made. No regrets at all.

If you can swing the Colt LE6920 then go for it. GT Distributors has them for $995.

 

[goon]

And even then, in a pinch, could the M&P Sport pull some time as an effective defensive carbine if it really needed to? I think yes.
I would rather have a Colt 6920 for that, but I think the M&P Sport with a few good magazines and a .50 cal can full of XM193 would provide an awful lot of security in a bad situation.

 

[B!ngo]

If you're left-handed I would strongly recommend you start off right with a left-handed AR model. Many, even some left-handers will say that a left-handed model is not needed but I believe that's just wrong.
I'm a left-handed shooter who suffered with a right-handed bolt rifle when I was a kid and decided that if I ever got back in to shooting I'd own left-handed guns exclusively and it's really worked out.
I started with a Stag Arms 3GL (which was designed for 3-gun shooting and not the best first choice; btw Stag's CEO is a left hander and also hated AR's and decided to start his own AR firm building the same gun in left-hand as they do in right-hand) but found it too heavy and front-weighted so ended up building a few left-handed AR's in the mode that I preferred.
But starting with a mid-priced left-handed Stag or equivalent (though there aren't that many) is a fine starting point. You'll really enjoy it and won't feel that you're being impeded by it being designed for 90% of the population, while you're a ten percent'er.
And I assure you that I have no affiliation with Stag Arms other than sharing one idiosyncrasy with their CEO.
I disagree with those who feel that you should start with an 'excellent' gun. Truth is that you really won't know what you want, or what satisfies you, unless and until you start shooting. Your needs and tastes will be refined and you will then modify what you own or you'll be enjoying it enough that you won't mind buying another.
Anyway, feel free to PM me if you'd like any more detail. I'm really not an expert but happy to share the basics with another southpaw.
B

 

[pretzelxx]

If you plan to hunt, get a lower end 223 whole gun, and work on a medium grade 30 cal upper to toss on.

 

[tuj]

In all seriousness though, the .223 is a more than adequate cartridge for the task [whitetail hunting] with proper bullet selection and good riflery.

You know, I tend to agree, I was just pointing out the fact that .223 is not considered an 'adequate' hunting round in some parts of the country. With good modern bullets and proper shot placement, yeah, it's going to work. But you have to admit that the .223-for-deer is a debate that comes up a lot. I would call the issue far from settled. I mean, there are Indian Alaskans who take bear with a .22lr; it works. Is it ideal? I don't know...I think most of us would say 'no way'.