Flintlock shooters
- Thread starter Ed
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rocklocker2
Member
flinters
i shoot in a league and we shoot metal targets one week and paper the next.paper at 25 ,50 ,an 100 yds.metal at 50 ,75 ,an 100.i sight in at 100 and reduce powder charge for closer targets instead of moving sights.works on both the tc flinter and my pedersoli long rifle
i shoot in a league and we shoot metal targets one week and paper the next.paper at 25 ,50 ,an 100 yds.metal at 50 ,75 ,an 100.i sight in at 100 and reduce powder charge for closer targets instead of moving sights.works on both the tc flinter and my pedersoli long rifle
Flintlocks
ED, I am currently building a 75 caliber Germanic short rifle...I am making the barrel, and it is being rifled by Bigiron Barrel Works. Early period guns are my specialty, with sliding wooden patchboxes. I will post pictures throughout it's construction.
ED, I am currently building a 75 caliber Germanic short rifle...I am making the barrel, and it is being rifled by Bigiron Barrel Works. Early period guns are my specialty, with sliding wooden patchboxes. I will post pictures throughout it's construction.
Loyalist Dave
Member
I have a custom .54 longrifle with a Colerain swamped barrel, and a Large Siler lock. Shoots from the bench a 2" group at 100 yards using a .530 ball, and 70 gr of 3Fg. I use 3Fg to both load and prime.
I have also owned a .50 cal Blue Ridge Hunter from Cabela's. It's made by Pedersoli, and is the same model that was marketed under the Hatfield brand name just prior to that company ending business.
I have also owned a semi-custom Jaeger in .54 made by Tennesee Valley Muzzleloading.
I highly recommend both the BRH and the TVM.
LD
I have also owned a .50 cal Blue Ridge Hunter from Cabela's. It's made by Pedersoli, and is the same model that was marketed under the Hatfield brand name just prior to that company ending business.
I have also owned a semi-custom Jaeger in .54 made by Tennesee Valley Muzzleloading.
I highly recommend both the BRH and the TVM.
LD
1911 guy
Member
.36 Cal Pedersoli
I use a .36 caliber "flinchlock" for squirrels. Great fun, usually draws a crowd at the range when everybody else has their hi-tech stuff out. I shoot lots of "modern" stuff, but there's just something about a smokepole. Got a .50 for deer, but it's a caplock.
I use a .36 caliber "flinchlock" for squirrels. Great fun, usually draws a crowd at the range when everybody else has their hi-tech stuff out. I shoot lots of "modern" stuff, but there's just something about a smokepole. Got a .50 for deer, but it's a caplock.
rocklocker2
Member
foghorn1
try using less priming powder in the pan.
try using less priming powder in the pan.
1911 guy
Member
Powder and placement.
Copy what Rocklocker2 said. Use less powder than you think you need and keep it away from the flash hole. If powder is up against the hole, it has to burn (albeit quickly) down to the hole to ignite. Left away from the hole, it's near instant ignition of your propellant charge.
Copy what Rocklocker2 said. Use less powder than you think you need and keep it away from the flash hole. If powder is up against the hole, it has to burn (albeit quickly) down to the hole to ignite. Left away from the hole, it's near instant ignition of your propellant charge.
rocklocker2
Member
new lock
hey guys i just put a new RPL lock from L&R on my TC flinter ,what a difference.that thing is fast right out of the box.dont look like it will need any tuning.playing with the idea of converting the pedersoli Kentucky .long to flint next.anybody ever done this?
hey guys i just put a new RPL lock from L&R on my TC flinter ,what a difference.that thing is fast right out of the box.dont look like it will need any tuning.playing with the idea of converting the pedersoli Kentucky .long to flint next.anybody ever done this?
karlsgunbunker
Member
My first gun was a .45 Kentucky long rifle built from a spanish kit.
I used to be a fair shot with it but i haven't fired it for years.
It has an odd lock for a rifle it uses the 1/2" pistol flints. once I got it tuned and worked out the kinks it was relatively accurate (user error mostly) and very reliable. with the correct powder it almost always goes boom. (No Pyrodex).
I still have it 20yrs after I bought it. Never could quite part with it.
I used to be a fair shot with it but i haven't fired it for years.
It has an odd lock for a rifle it uses the 1/2" pistol flints. once I got it tuned and worked out the kinks it was relatively accurate (user error mostly) and very reliable. with the correct powder it almost always goes boom. (No Pyrodex).
I still have it 20yrs after I bought it. Never could quite part with it.
As for Black powder, I shoot nothing but Flintlock long rifles. I have over the years tried caplocks in all forms and found them to be not even close to the pleasure derived from the spark throwers. Have built a few BP guns as well as doing some relief and incise carvings. I'd also like to mention that I have one for sale at the moment ( a .40 cal longrifle) over on the buy sell trade board.
As for your building and shooting of Flintlocks......more power to ya..it's tons of fun......good luck and keep yer powder dry!
As for your building and shooting of Flintlocks......more power to ya..it's tons of fun......good luck and keep yer powder dry!
.38 Special
Member
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2006
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- 7,346
I love the flintlocks, sometimes going several years shooting nothing but. IMO, Pedersoli makes some really great guns for the money. Also IMO, there's a lot of unadulterated BS that has to be waded through prior to starting in the game. Gunwriter Ross Seyfried spent a lot of time with these guns and put together what I believe to be the single best article existent, where flinters are concerned.
http://www.98.net/ibha/flint1.htm
http://www.98.net/ibha/flint1.htm
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