Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by Bill681911, May 1, 2021.
I also have and like LED lights on my loading bench, but also found they interfere with my FM radio unless it's four feet or so away.
You can buy just a powder pan to put your beam scale back into service if you want, Midway and others have them.
One of the ways EMI gets into the scale is via the power cord. That can often be helped with snap on ferrite chokes.
To avoid temperature problems, it is necessary to have the work area at constant temperature for an hour or two before starting, and to let the electronics warm up for half an hour.
The signal from the strain gauges in an electronic scale is on the order of a millivolt. If the design is poorly done, or cuts corners, it is very easy to get these problems. A good design avoids them.
I'd rather use a digital scale, but the above problems keep me using my balance scale, which is practically impervious to temperature variation and immune to EMI.
I have one over my bench. It has a motion sensor too. Love it
Ummmm,?? I do not see anywhere in the thread exactly what SCALE you are using?? Did you mention it? Perhaps your scale is the issue.
Remove the scale from the room and use a known weight ie: check weights.
Any decent balance beam will not care about lights or EMPs!
I did that in my shop with the 8 foot and 4ft fluorescents at the reload bench. Twice the light and no warm up in cold weather. Really simple to do as long as you get the right LEDs. Single end or both ends for power...
I've taken it to every room in the house when it's messed up and it continues to act up.
I just can't trust it. Glad I only paid $18.00 for it on a Black Friday sale.
I sure they are not all like that.
My cell phone has had much more impact on my electronic scales than my fluorescent lights have.
to answer a previous question on air flow my house & reloading room included have radiant floor heating so there is no air flow
Do your scales have a calibration option and did they come with calibration weights? Not check weights, but calibration weights that match the scale's calibration protocol. If yes, have you calibrated the scales?
yes ,I calibrate each time w weigh charges
You have a serious problem there Bill. My advice would be to get another pan for your 10/10 and never look back. As has already been said, you really need a set of grain checkweights, RCBS and Lyman both offer a basic set, comparing one cheap scale against another cheap scale is just guesswork. For anyone less experienced than you this problem could have ended in tears. Some newbie reloader thinking he's spot on with his weights because the scale says so, is really 3 whole grains out could be quite significant.
New pans are available - or you can easily fabricate one as a stopgap. Either way you will you will need to re-balance the beam by adding/subtracting weight to the weightbox - an easy process that I, or others can talk you through if necessary.
IF that is your issue, then only if you get the type of LED replacement tubes that do NOT use the ballast. IMHO, it's the florescent ballast that is generating the strongest magnetic fields.
Field strength decreases by the square of the distance. So moving the existing lamps away by an additional 1 foot will make a big difference; by 2 feet will make a huge difference.
You'll need check weights in the weight zone you'll be using. E.g. a 10 gram check weight (154.3 grains) won't do you much good when loading handgun ammo around 4.5gr.
2. Digital scales are affected by everything you can't see....
drafts and slight breezes
bumping/ internal damage
Hope this helps.
I have a replacement pan from rcbs for my 10-10 but it is too light to zero. I am asking Rcbs if they can re-calibrate and do a tune up on my old 10-10
The pan support assembly should have a cavity in the bottom that you can open and add some weight to get the pan to zero.
On my 5-0-5 scale, there is a phillips head screw in the center of the pan support assembly to gain access to the cavity. They generally use lead shot for zeroing the scale but anything that fits in the cavity and gets the necessary weight will work.
I am the opposite; we replaced EVERY lamp in every fixture with LED. Lighter, less heat, longer lifespan and a lower electric bill
Unfortunately I don't think RCBS will be interested in doing anything with your scale. As Chuck says - It's a simple matter to rebalance your scale - Any replacement pan will need the beam rebalanced unless you are just lucky enough to get one that will zero out using the level adjuster.
Just set you scale on a level surface and adjust the level adjuster about half way - put you light pan in place and slowly add weight to the pan - small clippings from the skirt of an airgun pellet work well or clippings of electrical solder. Once enough weight has been added to zero the scale, remove the pan, unscrew the Phillips screw that holds the weight box together, then tip the contents of the pan into the weight box, then re-assemble. - Job done, scale should now work as well as it ever did. This will not effect the calibration or accuracy of the scale in any way.
You can order Ballast Free LED's from 1000bulbs.com or get them from Home Depot or Lowes. You may have to purchase shunted sockets too. When I was working I Installed a lot of 4 ft LED's that cost less than [email protected] You need to watch the shipping cost if you order online.
I added LED hanging fixtures above my bench, and don't turn on the flourescent fixture when I am using the electronic scale; that solved my drift issue.
Also keep any wifi device away, even cell phones. My amazin fire stick was the worst I think. Depending on the sensitivity of the scale, fans or AC vents can cause drift too.
I tested this, true. If I keep my phone 10 feet away, it doesn't interfere.
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