Thanks Cooldill... I'll give it a shot... Thank you....I've heard of people doing this to create the priming compound for .22 LR cases so my guess is... it'll probably work. I'd use some snippers and snip the white tips off, then add some pure rubbing alcohol and a mortar and pestel to grind it up smooth, then spread it out on some foil and a baking sheet and let it dry. Should make a nice puddle of priming compound for beer can caps.
I reload 22 rimfire. Used both caps and matches. And mixed them. I have had hang fires on matches. Never on caps. A percentage of the matches primers are slow like a flintlock. It also depends if you use them wet. I wet the caps with water and peel them. Then I let them dry then wet them again with acetone when priming the case. But it seems that they lose some of their effectiveness after having been wet with water. I am still experimenting with primer. I have some very finely ground aluminum that I am going to add to a cap-match mix. Anxious to see how it works.I've heard of people doing this to create the priming compound for .22 LR cases so my guess is... it'll probably work. I'd use some snippers and snip the white tips off, then add some pure rubbing alcohol and a mortar and pestel to grind it up smooth, then spread it out on some foil and a baking sheet and let it dry. Should make a nice puddle of priming compound for beer can caps.
have you ever thought of a grain or two of black powder mixed in? I have some old white tipped strike anywhere we found and was curious about this. They still seem to strike so I'm wondering how it'd would work as a cap primer.I reload 22 rimfire. Used both caps and matches. And mixed them. I have had hang fires on matches. Never on caps. A percentage of the matches primers are slow like a flintlock. It also depends if you use them wet. I wet the caps with water and peel them. Then I let them dry then wet them again with acetone when priming the case. But it seems that they lose some of their effectiveness after having been wet with water. I am still experimenting with primer. I have some very finely ground aluminum that I am going to add to a cap-match mix. Anxious to see how it works.
Traffer,I reload 22 rimfire. Used both caps and matches. And mixed them. I have had hang fires on matches. Never on caps. A percentage of the matches primers are slow like a flintlock. It also depends if you use them wet. I wet the caps with water and peel them. Then I let them dry then wet them again with acetone when priming the case. But it seems that they lose some of their effectiveness after having been wet with water. I am still experimenting with primer. I have some very finely ground aluminum that I am going to add to a cap-match mix. Anxious to see how it works.
Go to Youtube... MannyCa has access to them or makes them... I got mine from someone here...so who makes a homemade tap-o-cap as I want one??
Well I know very little about chemistry but here are some things I have found through my experimenting.The igniter tips from "strike anywhere" matches worked good 20 years ago, but not so good anymore.
Nowadays the manufacturers are using just a fraction of the phosphorous compound that was used in the "old days"..... I would also note that the best paper toy caps available now are about 1/3 as powerful as the ones we played with 50 years ago.... and that probably explains why Forster discontinued the Tap-O-Cap.
Yeah, a tiny pinch of BP helps. Still not 100% sure-fire, though.
Last I heard, "MannyCA" on the Castboolits forum was making dies. You might try contacting him.
I just ordered some. I will let you folks know how it works.The stuff I linked to is sold to reprime .22lr cases. When mixed it makes a liquid you put into the case with an eyedropper.
Hi Oldfogey4ever... yer memory was timely... Thank you...Check out this You-tube video Rattus58. Sorry, didn't see yer post till today!
Wow, I wonder if anyone has one of those old guns. Would be great to play with. Thanks for the formula page. Where could I get these chemicals? I would really want to make some non-corrosive primer. I found a patent for one but the chemistry language is WAY over my head. Maybe you can make some sense of it.Traffer, it sounds like you're keeping busy! Here's something interesting -
This ad from the 1960's describes a "gun" which propelled a #6 shot pellet by means of a paper cap. Notice that the ad refers to a 4.4 milligram powder charge.
I agree, those Legends of the Wild West caps are the best on the market today - each one is loaded with 0.023 grains of powder - that converts to 1.5 milligrams.
If I load three of those Legends caps into a single Tap-O-Cap hull, it will reliably ignite the main charge in a small sidelock pistol (but the hull is filled up halfway with paper/powder, and doesn't grip the nipple very well).
It's fun to try new stuff, so I wouldn't try to dissuade you from experimenting. I can only tell you that I settled on an established primer compound several years ago.
I'm not sure what's in that mail-order package linked by jerkface11, but it could very well be the same components I use - check out the "H-48" and "FH-42" formulations at this page -
https://www.northwestfirearms.com/threads/priming-mixtures.58110/
Be careful! Keep the quantities small (one or two grams) and NEVER grind those mixtures.
This is it. Unfortunately I am not a chemist and this is completely Greek to me. Is it possible to even get these chemicals?
"In one embodiment, the primer composition, when dry, includes approximately 25 wt % Red Phosphorus HB 801 (TP), 5 wt % PETN, 64.8 wt % potassium nitrate, 5 wt % aluminum, and 0.2 wt % gum tragacanth."