The hinge point (fulcrum) of a lever system.
Don't forget that's sometimes a pretty small amount, especially for handguns.
For either sight, using inches...
Distance to move sight = "A"
Distance to move impact point on target = "B"
Distance from front sight to rear sight ("Sight Radius") = "C"
Distance to target in the same units = "D"
Then, if all in the same units, say inches, you can use the proportion,
A / B = C / D
("A is to B as C is to D.")
Transposing the quantities, with Distance to Move Sight ("A") as the unknown,
A = (B X C) / D
Example 1:
My 1911 with a sight radius of 6.5 inches shoots four inches to the right at 25 yards. How far should I drift the rear sight?
Distance to target in inches = 25 yards X 36 inches in a yard = 900 inches
So A = (4 X 6.5) / 900
A = 0.029 inches to the right for the rear sight.
Example 2:
My .22LR rifle with a sight radius of 14 inches shoots four inches to the right at 25 yards (same as in the example above). How far should I move the rear sight ("windage")?
So A = (4 X 14) / 900
A = 0.062 inches to the right for the rear sight.
Notice how much more this is for the rifle with a longer sight radius than the pistol.
In trying to visualize what direction should either sight be moved, it helps to hold the gun and imagine the front sight as a "hinge" as you watch where the muzzle points while you rotate the gun from side to side around the "hinge point" formed by the front sight.
The fact that these are such tiny distances can lead to confusion in adjusting sights because it is so easy to "overdo" the adjustments.
So then you "overdo" it in the other direction and you end up chasing the impact point around all day long.