Fussy eater .45 ACP

mountainroads

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M1911 NM. Have had it for years. I'll upload a picture when I get the chance,

Built for me by top-notch gunsmith. It's always been a little finicky about the ammo. Conservatively throated. Tends to smokestack unless I use straight hardball. Wadcutter ammo? Forget it. HP? Maybe yes, maybe no. Hence, I don't trust it for self defense. I don't think lack of cycles is the problem, but that's a possibility. Would love to find some reliable SD loads, as it's a great carry weapon. Any ammo or troubleshooting suggestions greatly appreciated. TIA.

- MR
 
IME, stovepiping is usually an ejector issue- they are available in different lengths. I'd try a longer one first, but you may find that it just wont eat anything but 230gr FMJ without serious mods like a ramped barrel conversion or relieved ejection port. These features are standard on most newer 1911s because they are expected to feed modern hollow points reliably.
Also, match and custom guns tend to have very tight bushings which improves accuracy, but can make them more ammo-sensitive.
 
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IME, stovepiping is usually an ejector issue- they are available in different lengths. I'd try a longer one first, but you may find that it just wont eat anything but 230gr FMJ without serious mods like a ramped barrel conversion or relieved ejection port. These features are standard on most newer 1911s because they are expected to feed modern hollow points reliably.
Also, match and custom guns tend to have very tight bushings which improves accuracy, but can make them more ammo-sensitive.
Thank you NL40K. I was aware of the tight bushings possibility, which led me to wonder if more "breaking in" would help. (Although, I realize that may not solve the issue by itself.) However, I did not consider the ejector as a problem source. I'll look into that. Thanks for the suggestion.

- MR
 
Built for me by top-notch gunsmith. It's always been a little finicky about the ammo. Conservatively throated.
I've never met a "top tier" gunsmith who wouldn't be willing to correct a issue like that on a gun he built...most would insist that they be allowed to fix it.

Tends to smokestack unless I use straight hardball. Wadcutter ammo? Forget it. HP? Maybe yes, maybe no.
Sounds like there might have been miscommunication between what you wanted and what he built for you. I'd call him and see if he can figure out the issue

I don't think lack of cycles is the problem, but that's a possibility.
How many rounds, and which kind, have you run through it?

On a tightly fitted custom 1911, I'd wouldn't expect reliable function without having put 500 full power round through it.

Any ammo or troubleshooting suggestions greatly appreciated.
The most reliable feeding defensive .45ACP ammo I've encounter has been Remington 230gr Golden Sabre.

It could be a number of things. I'd recommend you look into the easy ones first.
1. See if feeding improves with different proven magazines
2. Check the tension of the extractor
3. Try different weight recoil springs
 
Brown&Sharpe 495 series is the tool to have. Here's two new mags,a stainless factory Colt,and a gunshow... who knows what.

Second area to look at,assuming they're from the same manufacturer.... Colt vs Colt as an example is.... loaded,look at them from the rear. Look at how much of the primer is showing above the square notch.

Won't discuss remediation as it's a very touchy subject,other than to say there are VERY specific forming tools required. Bubba with pliers..... AIN'T.

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I had a similar situation with mine, originally put together by a local well known gunsmith and full time SOT manufacturer. I was fortunate to have called him my friend, and he didn't do gunsmith work for the GP.

Despite the doom and gloom about all the things "wrong" with my gun, the problem I had was caused entirely by the mags I was using, simple as that.

Hybrid, wadcutter, and GI feed lips, (there may be more), just might make all the difference with your internals and ammo type.
 
I don't know very much about trouble shooting 1911s. It could be a too tight barrel bushing and there is also the locking lugs and linkage fit that could cause it or simply being over sprung for your ammo. That does it for my ideas except to see if the smith that built it years ago is still in business and confer with him.
 
I had a Springfield 1911 .. that would never feed LSWC … very picky about HPs
I found it would feed Remington White Box 230gr HP and Remington 230 Golden Sabers
 
I have given up on SWCs. Some guns will feed some bullets, others won't. I just load roundnose, I have found a source of 200 gr roundnose so I can get the ballistics even though I don't get the style points or sharp edged holes.
 
Thanks guys for all the great suggestions/ideas. To address a couple of them:

1) As mentioned, this gun was purchased a long time ago. As in 40 years ago. Gunsmith builder was the father of a very close friend, and friend/mentor to me as well. Unfortunately, he passed on almost 20 years ago :(

2) I'm sure he would've gladly worked with me to address the issues if I'd complained. It was just a NBD at the time as I had other carry weapons if needed. Now I'm finally getting around to it with my restarted interest and range membership. He was also very clear from the beginning that the gun had been accurized with tight tolerances, and would need some "breaking in".

3) >> Sounds like there might have been miscommunication between what you wanted and what he built for you. I'd call him and see if he can figure out the issue. << I was pretty happy to just take his advise about what I needed/wanted at that point in time. Total side note: I'm still mad at him for talking me out of an early Ingram M10. He said they were crap and not good for shooting anything not in a phone booth, I said I didn't care. I thought they were cool!

4) >> "On a tightly fitted custom 1911, I'd wouldn't expect reliable function without having put 500 full power round through it." << I'm way short of 500 rds. Working on that now.

5) Magazines don't seem to make a difference. Some GI issue. Some newer.

6) Will look at other great suggestions (extractor, springs, ammo, etc. as time permits.

Attached are a couple of pics.
 

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Spent some time at the range yesterday. Happy to report that the gun performed flawlessly (25+ rounds) with pictured "practice" 230 FMJ.

There's a thread/poll here about reloading disasters: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/poll-on-reload-disaster.922585/#post-12705760 I had a couple of boxes of REALLY old (1960's ??) .45ACP reloads that I wanted to burn up. Full lead round-nose. Guess what? First one up the ramp collapsed into the case and gave me a seriously nasty jam to clear. Slide was so close to closing that I was afraid the gun could go off if the hammer dropped, but not close enough to be able to engage the safety. F-ing awesome. Took a lot of work to clear and all that ammo went straight into the "crap ammo" dumper the range had.

- MR
 

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Another issue could be the gap between the feed ramp and the barrel. I carried a 1911 in the Army for 21 years and learned to love the rattling they have because the parts are loose and are not tight. This is what makes them reliable in the field where a little dirt will not cause it to jam. I bought a Kimber years ago and sold it within a week. It was too tight to rack the slide and was simply frustrating to shoot when it shot because it jammed a lot. A speck of dust will jam the rails on this particular 1911. So if you have not put a lot of rounds through it this may be one of the causes. Here is an article I bookmarked for my younger siblings a few years ago. Hopefully it may help you with your problem.
 
Historical information:
The receiver is an Essex, an inexpensive aftermarket part that was very common 40 years ago.
The slide is a true 1911 Colt, made in 1913 or early 1914 - note the lack of a 1913 patent date.
Adjustable rear sight looks like an Elliason, US stamped, a real military National Match item.
Grip safety looks like a 1911, the flat mainspring housing with lanyard loop certainly is.
Long aluminum trigger may be the military match part.

Any ID information on the barrel and bushing would be interesting.
 
Attached are a couple of pics.
The pics really help a lot. My immediate impression was that it was set up to be a "target/bullseye" gun...due to how the sets are set up. The rear tang looks a bit shorter than I'd expect

I'm way short of 500 rds.
It's hard to get an accurate impression of a "tight" 1911 before you get at least that many rounds through it

I'm still mad at him for talking me out of an early Ingram M10. He said they were crap and not good for shooting anything not in a phone booth
He wasn't wrong
 
Thanks a LOT guys for the additional feedback (and historical information). I'll be breaking it down over the weekend for cleaning and lube, and will try to get the requested barrel and bushing ID info,.

- MR
 
With all the contortions a short fat HP or wadcutter does getting into the barrel, it's a miracle it can be done to begin with.
 
Would love to find some reliable SD loads, as it's a great carry weapon.
Thought you said it was built as a NM (National Match) gun? If it really was, then no, it's not a great carry weapon and won't ever be a great carry weapon until it's been reworked to be one.
 
My suggestions: Replace the recoil spring with a new recoil spring. The standard was 16 lb, go buy an 18 also just to see. Your spring is 40 years old and has got to taken a set. This is important in terms of timing. If the slide is moving too fast, the cartridge in the magazine will often be jammed on the feed ramp.

Next, use ammunition appropriate for the pistol. That is, ball ammunition.

The original 1910 cartridge was loaded with a 230 FMJ and 5.0 grs Bullseye Pistol powder for a desired velocity of 800 fps. You cannot go wrong copying this load.

And you can see, the velocity spec found in Clawson's book of the 1911 is verified in period ammunition

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Military match ball, close enough


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I think this is good

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This is a good cast bullet load. A 230 LRN with 4.5 grains Bullseye pistol powder, I set the OAL to 1.250 because I have some short throated 1911's

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in other 1911's, it chronographs at 800 fps, on this day, the weather was cold

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the standby

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Something else, when building a period NM pistol, the gunsmith peened the frame rails, coated the same with grinding compound, and beat the slide back and forth till he achieved a level of resistance that he felt was appropriate for a tight fit. With these tight, hand built 1911's, the advice back in the day was "your elbow is the drip point" . Keep your 1911 swimming in oil. Oil, oil, oil. Oil the rails, oil the locking lugs, oil the swinging link, oil the end of the barrel, and put a drop of oil where it will slide down to the sear surfaces. Never let it run dry.

You might remove the extractor and clean out that recess as mice may have built nests in the extractor hole. That could cause tension issues.

Don't know what magazines you are using, buy the best and see if any are more reliable than others. Government magazines were built by the low bidder, and what you have, who knows if it is real GI or some counterfeit, or its previous history. Mil Spec ain't next to Godliness. Especially if it was rejected by the Government Inspector, and "somehow" got into the market place. You think the OEM maker junked rejected magazines, when they can make profit selling them to gullible buyers?

If your 1911 is only reliable with 230 FMJ, that is fine. The pistol came from the factory ready to run with ball ammunition. That was all you would have received in combat anyway, the Army never issued LWSC target ammunition to front line troops.
 
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Or to team target shooters for a long time.
I don’t know when service shooters got “wad guns.”

Before my time. What I saw on the firing line with AMU and All Guard were 185 JHP target ammunition, made to their specifications.

I shot a Tisas Service Special for a grin in the Centerfire portion of a 2700 Bullseye Pistol Match

HXSO4LF.jpg




I used a ball equivalent load, which is a 230 FMJ with 7.8 grs AA#5. Ball ammunition beat me up, and there was so much recoil, I saved a round in rapid fire. I think I got it off, after the targets turned. I don't know how the greats shot that stuff, they must have had forearms like Popeye.
 
Another issue could be the gap between the feed ramp and the barrel. I carried a 1911 in the Army for 21 years and learned to love the rattling they have because the parts are loose and are not tight. This is what makes them reliable in the field where a little dirt will not cause it to jam. I bought a Kimber years ago and sold it within a week. It was too tight to rack the slide and was simply frustrating to shoot when it shot because it jammed a lot. A speck of dust will jam the rails on this particular 1911. So if you have not put a lot of rounds through it this may be one of the causes. Here is an article I bookmarked for my younger siblings a few years ago. Hopefully it may help you with your problem.
Great article. Thanks!

- MR
 
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