Galled aluminum showing on the frame rail of my Sig P239 after 300 rounds!

[DBR]

I suggest you try Weaponshield oil or grease after you smooth out the burr:

http://www.steelshieldtech.com/mainpage/retail-product-weapon-shield.html

There have been some issues identified with Miltec-1. I don't want to start a "lube war" just do a search.

 

[el_vaquero]

Any update on this? I noticed the same thing on my brand new P229 E2!

 

[JQP]

Michael, I'm a big Sig fan, but please do post your outcome of interacting with Sig CR for all of us here.

Honestly, I expect nothing less than a complete repair or replacement of your Sig.

If they don't do that, I'll be hugely disappointed and I will make sure that everyone I know or meet is aware of this issue and Sig's non-response.

 

[rellascout]

Michael, I'm a big Sig fan, but please do post your outcome of interacting with Sig CR for all of us here.

Honestly, I expect nothing less than a complete repair or replacement of your Sig.

If they don't do that, I'll be hugely disappointed and I will make sure that everyone I know or meet is aware of this issue and Sig's non-response.

I can almost guarantee that they did nothing! I have seen this happen to a lot of Sigs and have never heard of them replacing one because of this type of issue.

 

[Drail]

Just another reason I am not a fan of aluminum framed guns. What you are showing here though is nothing to worry about. Just work down the burr and carry on. I would not consider that to be "damage" and I doubt Sig will either. I have worked on and sold handguns for years and I have never seen a new one that didn't have burrs somewhere. They're not precision made equipment.

 

[dwhite]

As a fellow machinist I agree with Michaelmcgo, that little scratch is really a minor affair. You can get the frame re-anodized fairly cheap. You can also just continue to shoot it and see if it gets worse with use.

First time I've changed the oil in the new cars I've owned I've found metal flakes in it. It's just part of mechanical wear.

If it was mine I wouldn't worry about it.

All the Best,
Doug White

 

[Drail]

The finish on the rails of ANY handgun is going to wear away in time. It is not damage. It's wear and tear. The gun is not ruined. Take a stone and radius the corner of the slide stop that is chewing on the slide.

 

[Rinspeed]

I can almost guarantee that they did nothing! I have seen this happen to a lot of Sigs and have never heard of them replacing one because of this type of issue.

I don't really blame them, it's just a tool. You can't go replacing major parts just for a little finish wear. I've never seen an aluminum framed Sig, that had been shot, that didn't have some finish wear on the rails.

 

[Lonestar49]

Monday Morning

...

I don't know where you're at with the gun and sending it back (it's Monday) but what you might want to consider is clean the frame rails, clean of any oil, then take a black felt pen marker and cover the worn area, same with the burr damage on the release lever area/burr mark. Then, being all black again, put on oil or grease, I'd go grease, and take it shooting and see if the burr that caused the initial damage, has, as mentioned, worn itself down.

It will tell you quickly, if you have an ongoing wear issue or not.. Then make the next decision..

Luck,


Ls

 

[thegunenthusiast]

I'm sort of newbie, and I have question about TW25B.

I got small sample tube of TW25B a few months ago with my new Sig P239. I like it very much, and as I used all of it I ordered big 4 Oz tube of TW25B by Mil-comm from midwestguns. To my surprise this stuff I bought from midwestguns is way different. Here are the differences:

small sample tube: the grease is white, it is grease, i.e. you apply it and it stays there, though easily spread. Just like what you will expect of good grease.

big 4 Oz tube bought from midwestguns: it looks more like oil, semi-transparent, it leaks like viscous oil. I did shake the tube, and it made the content closer to the sample, more white, and just somewhere between oil and grease. When I used it after a couple of weeks again without shaking tube, it is again more like oil.

Which of these two TW25B is good which is bad? Or they both are OK, and this is a sort of difference you can expect? I doubt it as I can't imagine military folks who are using this stuff will tolerate variance in properties like that.

I found the following on the rare end of the big tube: "WG 102809". If this is decoded as packing date (which may not be the fact), the stuff was about a year old when I bought it. Knowing a bit of chemistry I doubt it will deteriorate in sealed container to change its properties to that extent.

Could someone solve this puzzle for me? I was so happy Sig sent that sample of TW25B grease with the pistol: it was so good...

Thanks in advance for your answers.

 

[DBR]

IME TW25B grease does separate over time to an amber colored oil and a white paste. My directions stated to kneed the tube to reconstitute the grease.

Milcom also sells an oil which IIRC is a more diluted white liquid. Maybe that is what you got.

I don't use these products anymore. I use Weaponshield CLP and a 50W ester based synthetic oil where I used to use grease. They both stay put and don't separate.

 

[1SOW]

My 239 didn't have a burr, but I use a light coating of synthetic oil on the rails and have shot a LOT of rounds through it. I also use Militec on & in the bbl (hot surfaces) where it works best. The signs of wear are the 'normal' surface wear marks you would expect.

I even shot this gun for almost a year when I started USPSA comp. All parts are original and it has never had a failure shooting 115 and 124gr factory or reloaded ammunition.