Gas Block Mini 14

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357mag357

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Hello,

Has anyone removed the 4 screws to there Mini 14 gas block. I really want to add the forward rail mount by Ultimak. I know Ruger tells you not to remove them but its looks real easy in the video. The mount is not cheap and I don't want to damage the gun or effect accuracy. I wonder if Ruger would install it for me? Any thoughts?
m4-S.jpg m4-Sinst.jpg
 
I bought my current Mini-14 in the mid'80s and a couple of years ago acquired a set of gas ports so that I can change-out the too-large OEM port that makes the action overgassed.

I have not yet done the job (my interest will eventually swing back to the Mini-14) but anticipate no issues. I have proper tools and all that I will need is to determine the recommended torque setting for the screws.

One key thing that I plan on doing (just in case "center" is not accounted for in the actual design) is adding witness marks on the gas block & barrel prior to disassembly.
 
Using the short arm of the wrench, follow a proper criss-cross torque pattern and pull down evenly in small increments. As you tighten, other bolts will loosen. With each pass the other bolts will loosen less. Once no more movement, one pass with the long arm of the wrench, followed by a "ringer" pass should be good to go. Fire 100 rounds and check tightness. If they loosen up, to tighten and stake them with a punch.

Oh and dont overtighten the barrel clamp bolts!
 
The are staked from the factory, and depending on how heavily they can be a pain to remove, but usually they just unscrew.
If your going to be pulling the gas block apart, you might want to order a set of gas bushings and adjust your gas system while your at it.
I found that with a reduced port gas bushing I enjoyed the rifle quite a bit more. No more cases getting launched 20yds away, less hammering of the actions, and i actually got a bit less change in poi from first shot to second.
 
I've taken my gas block off a few times. It's not rocket surgery.

Take it off slowly, use a lube, use heat if need be.

When putting it back. Loosely get it in place. Lightly put each screw in and get the gap on either side of the gas block equal. Start doing 1/4 turns alternating on each screw in a cross pattern. Go to "perfectunion" forum and figure out the torque and use a 1/4" torque wrench. Or risk it and just try getting it "good enuff." I did the latter, twisted with the short end of the Allen wrench until it hurt my finger. Called that good.

Use blue loctite; not red. Blue breaks down with enough heat if you get in trouble next time around. Go to ACE and get a new set of screws.

If you manage to break a screw off. You'll have to drill and tap the bottom of the gas block. Or purchase a new bottom. I told myself if I ever broke the bottom I'd get an adjustable one from ASI. $150 IIRC
 
I machined a new bushing back in the 80's before anybody was making them, I've run across my drawings somewhere recently. As I recall I calculated an orifice area at 1/2 of the original. Still kicks brass to about 60 to 70% the distance of the original bushing. I had no trouble taking it loose at all, as for retorqueing I just snugged the screws down until the block was in firm contact with the barrel and wiggled the block against the slack to center it, checked for equal gap on the flanges and torqued it on down evenly until it felt about right. I didn't use locktite and it has stayed tight.
 
Thank you all for the great information. I do like the idea of an adjustable gas block. My brass does seem to get ejected farther then the bullets.
 
A few years back I did a bit of research on gas block changeouts - here's a site that I found that pretty much covers all the bases... haven't used them myself but they look like they're on top of things for mini's... http://www.mini14adjustablegasblock.com/#

Hope this helps
Whether or not it helped the OP, it did help me, so Thank You. :)

That is, apparently, the place where I got my set of bushings ... so now I have it pinned for easy future reference.

And ... "Torque ‎Specifications for all Gas Block Screws is 40 Inch LBS" ... my remaining detail-question answered. :D
 
Go to perfectunion.com and ask for Lee Hadaway. He makes new gas bushings for a fraction of the cost of a new gas block.
kwg
 
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