Getting into Reloading, What Do You Think of My List?

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Originally Posted by USSR
A lot of unnecessary and wasteful items listed there.

Anything other than what Craig listed?
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The biggest thing is the hand press, don't do it as you will tire of it quickly. Then there is the Lee Lock Ring Eliminator. One of the reason I don't buy Lee dies is because of their stupid lock rings. When you go to the cost and trouble of replacing the rings on a set of Lee dies, a higher quality set of dies that come with decent rings looks all the better. Spending twice as much money or more for wet tumbling is totally unnecessary, as the standard tumblers that use walnut shell media work just fine. In Step 2, I'm not sure why you are buying two moulds, and especially a 150gr bullet mould for a 9mm. I would look for one that produces about 125gr bullets, but come out at .358", not .356". Really easy to size down .358" a bit; really tough to size up .356" a bit, and you will find that .358" sized bullets generally shoot quite well in most 9mm handguns. And lastly, $312 for a case prep center? I just paid about $115 for a Lyman case prep center. Hope that helps.

Don
 
+1 on hand press. If you're casting bullets to save money, then you're going to be doing a lot of loading, one would presume. Hand press is not where it's at.

Also, you do not need a hand press to size bullets. You can use the Lee sizers in a progressive press. Most progressives can be used as a SS press.

Also, you do not often need to size cast bullets, to begin with. There's a lot of incomplete advice out there that is not well thought out. There is zero reason to size a bullet smaller, unless it's so big that it doesn't fit in the chamber. The only persons needing to size a bullet to exacting specs are people with guns that have tight chambers and people who sell bullets... because some of their customers have guns with tight chambers.

Most of the time, you will have zero issues with a cast bullet as it drops right out of the mold. If the completed cartridge fits in the chamber, freely, the bullet is NOT too big for the bore. It can't be. And sizing to exactly 1 mic over bore size doesn't make the bullet any safer nor more accurate nor less likely to lead, as a general rule. Now, this isn't to say that some people might have specific experiences where they actually get better accuracy (or think they do).

Cast bullets can be too small, OTOH. But there's no amount of sizing a cast bullet that can make it bigger! So save the money on the sizers. Buy them if and when you need them. If you find you don't like tumble lubing, you will have to buy a lubrisizer, anyway.

I believe you will find a SS press is not something that you will outgrow if you upgrade. A good, cheap SS press is a very useful and versatile piece of equipment. You will probably be glad to have one, even if you upgrade to a progressive.
 
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Most seater dies will crimp. Since i learned to crimp with the seating die, my FCDs have been MIA on purpose. I couldnt even tell you where they are.


Though i usually try and stay out of the advice givin' business i would like to mention that a set of check weights are a tiny investment and come in quite handy. I, myself like to know that my scale is accurate.

And i agree with Blarby, the manuals are one of the most important parts. People dont drill that in like they used to around here. You used to not be able to get to the 3rd post without a manual Nazi showing up. (Thankfully so, too)
 
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USSR said:
...the Lee Lock Ring Eliminator...Spending twice as much money or more for wet tumbling is totally unnecessary...In Step 2, I'm not sure why you are buying two moulds, and especially a 150gr bullet mould for a 9mm. I would look for one that produces about 125gr bullets, but come out at .358", not .356". Really easy to size down .358" a bit; really tough to size up .356"...And lastly, $312 for a case prep center? I just paid about $115 for a Lyman case prep center. Hope that helps.
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I was looking at the lock ring Eliminator as an alternative to the quick change bushings, for an extra $3 I like the allen set screw vs the typical nut locking mechanism.

I like the concept of wet tumbling, mostly to keep dust levels down. And although it's purely cosmetic, I like shiny brass. With the harbor freight tumbler (if it doesn't wear out) it's pretty competitive in price.

For self defense rounds I like the added mass of the 147gr bullets. I was looking for a similar size mold. To make a comparable practice round. The 150gr is as close as I could find but it's for 38's and .357's. But since you mention the sizing ability of .358's I'll have to reconsider the .356 molds. The only reason for the .356 sizer is a semi-accurate place holder. I plan to slug my barrels before choosing the appropriate sizing die.

Yeah, the case prep station is off the list. I'd considered it for possible rifle cartridges later on, but there are better alternatives. You're helping more than you know. Thank you.

GLOOB, I have no experience casting bullets and I don't know what your experience level is. With that said, most of your post flies right in the face of what I've read so far in Ingot to Target. I plan to size my cast bullets for consistency from round to round, to correct any out of round castings I might let pass, and to match my barrel for accuracy and minimized leading.

I would be very cautious warning people that sizing is unnecessary. Over-sized bullets and/or barrel constrictions can cause excess leading, barrel blockage or worse.
 
If it will keep you away from the hand press then I will send you an old lee o frame that is rattling around under my bench. Those hand presses are awful. If you ever consider a full length size rifle round then you will put that hand press in a creek somewhere and forget it. My suggestion is to buy a lee or rcbs beginners setup in a single stage, tabletop mounted press. Die thread is universal so if you decide you want to load other rounds (reloading is catchy) all you need is another set of dies. On your dies, buy lee carbide because they are good and they are cheap. They claim to run lube-less but I still give mine a light misting. Anyways, buy the kit and all you need is components. Go to the pay it forward thread (somebody link it please, I don't know how) and watch for the other bits you may want. I can't possibly stress enough the need for a cheapo flashlight and loading trays. Trays to hold your stuff so you work quickly in batches, flashlight makes it easy to look at powder levels to avoid a squib or a double charge. People will tell you that a double in a 9mm are not possible...don't trust it even though they are right (don't trust me on that last bit). Your life and livelihood depends on you being certain that each load is perfect. You don't want to detonate and destroy the diaper-changers.
 
Unless you get several pounds of powder and several thousand primers, the HAZMAT fees will eat you alive. I don't remember the shipping rules, but I think that powder and primers have to be shipped separately. You might be better off getting that stuff in your local gun shop.
 
USSR said:
Quote:
Originally Posted by USSR

a higher quality set of dies

Don
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I have to say my Lee dies are second to none. The lock ring is one of the best things that set it apart. The O ring keeps the setting while you spin the die so I really see no point in a quick change bushings.

Even if your using a 147gn(assuming JHP) that isn't going to be anything like a 150gn lead bullet. Go with the 124gn. You may decide to rethink & use a 124gn JHP for your SD round.
 
If you are just loading pistols you don't need to trim the cases and with carbide dies you don't need case lube. I have never used either and I have brass I have loaded over 10 times. The Hornady LNL you have list for that price is not the ammo plant that one is usually over $1000, it has the case and bullet feeder. I have the hornady LNL AP without the case and bullet feeder(which is the one for 389) and I can make 100rds of 9mm in about 20mins. You will need the LNL bushings and shell plates. When you go to the LNL I would suggest the RCBS lock out die, very valuable in finding squib and double charge loads. I use the PTX expanders from hornady so I can crimp in a separate step and have the lock out die.
 
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hcin~%#$@*#&#^&!$^~$@$(*@!$%^@~&#!$

Go get your self a Lee Classic Turret kit from Kemph in the caliber of choice. Select the Pro Powder measure as a $14.95 adder.

Then get a simple set of check weights. <<<<<<<<<< Check weights are the most important tool you will ever own. They will help you stay around for those young in's you have. They keep you, your scales and powder measure honest with each other.

Then get your scale. From cheap to lab grade scales,,, check weights keep things honest and in your face if you use them.

You also have to have a dial or digital caliper.

All one has to do concerning brass is clean it. A simple bath with soap and water can do that for you. You have to have your brass mechanically clean and inspected. If you want it polished and spotless priemer pockets and other attention to detail it cost more to get started.

You will also need a bullet puller. Most of use have at least a kentic/hammer style simple puller. If not press style pullers.

Last but not least you need load books. The net is great! All sorts of load data from powder manufactures. But in the long run you need books. I collect the books and as a book snob only hardcover will work for me. :)

There is a old saying. " Don't be penny wise and pound foolish " concerning your reloads.
 
Why do you say everyone needs a single stage?
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If I have my LNL-AP set up for a production run of 1000 or 1200, my usual run of say 9mm, and I have a hankering for try some new bullets or new powder in my 357mag, I will do my ladder loadups on the Single Stage to find what works the best instead of changing my setup on the LNL-AP.
I pull all the bullets I need to pull on my single stage, it's just so much easier than a kinetic hammer, (but you will still need the kinectic hammer for round nose 9mm).
I do a lot of my priming on top of my single stage, for my less common calibers I load for. Especially if I don't have a shell plate for the LNL-AP.

I guess I'm saying a single stage press compliments a progressive press in so many ways it's hard to list them. I know once I get my LNL-AP tune in perfect for a specific caliber I really don't want to change my setup on the AP for a run of 25 experimental loads.

I have two progressive presses now, one is a LNL-AP w/case feeder, the other one will be replaced this year with a second LNL-AP with no feeder. Even with the two APs the Rock Chucker single stage will still have lots of work. They are just so easy and so versatile (but very slow) that I don't know how you can be without one.

The Lee classic turret press is a self indexing turret press and parts like turret plates are cheap and work well. There are $13.00 and you populate them with dies and just swap out the whole turret for a caliber change. You can take out the indexing rod in about 10 seconds and have a single stage press or leave it in and have a self indexing turret press that is probably one of the most versatile and most flexible presses on the market. It would be your single stage to compliment your AP.
If you start out with the LCT press instead of the hand press, you won't have a really slow press like I have. But you do need something better than a hand press to start with and like I said in my first post, hand presses are cheap, you can buy one any time.
 
I would take a good look at the single stage Lee press kit. It comes with most everything you need to load pistol ammo except components and dies.
And the manual that comes with it is a very interesting read. It is not fancy, but it works well. As far as tumblers and stuff, They make loading nicer but are hardly necessary.
Just my opinion.
 
I see no reason to go back from a progressive if you already have one.
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Everybody needs a single stage or turret. Progressives are awesome for high volume reloading but are terrible for load development and small batches. Right now I have an RCBS turret and Dillon 650 and am about to greatly expand my loading capacity with several more progressives. I'll never be without the turret or a single stage. There are just too many things it's better for and it takes up too little space. It really is a necessity.
 
FMJBT said:
You can buy the harbor freight tumbler for $45 http://m.harborfreight.com/dual-drum...ler-67632.html

And buy pins. All you would need is ~2 lbs. 1 for each drum.

Buy a 3 die set instead of a 4 die. You don't need the factory crimp die

Lastly, the hornady case prep center is a waste. Save your money.

You can save your money by passing on case gauge. They are nice convince, but you can just use your barrel instead. I have them, don't get me wrong, but with a budget minded build, spend that money towards a good scale.
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FMJBT - I see pins are mentioned, can I assume you are referring to the stainless steel pins? Also is this the method you use with the stainless pins? http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/reloading/brass-cleaning-with-stainless-media/
And now for another question, do you use water in the harbor freight tumbler like mentioned in the link, or have a better method? Curious and trying to learn. :)
 
Yes, you use stainless steel pins.

You add 1# of the stainless pins, 1# of brass and fill it with the water/lemi-shine/Dawn mixture. You have 2 tumblers so you can do a double batch at once, do 2 different types of brass or just use 1 tumbler. The secret is to use 1# of pins and 1# of brass to allow it to tumble properly. 2 hours and it's as good as new. The Thumler is awesome but bigger and more expensive. However, you can clean more brass at one time, to save time.
 
I hear you, I was talking about that with someone in a PM the other day-Ive never been involved in a hobby such as this one, with so many little divisions of fan bases.
 
I have to disagree with others about the Lee dies. Some of them have their uses. I like the collet neck sizer dies for rifle. I like th fcd's. But, I am not fond of the Lee die sets. My first cartridge I reloaded for was 500 magnum. I for some reason was unable to hit anything with it. Thought it was the bullets. Changed that, nope. Knew it wasn't the gun since factory ammo was indeed accurate. Changed the dies to another brand and bam. It was a tack diver again. I noticed that with the Lee seater there was a very noticeable amount of runout. Another surprise I had with the new dies were how much easier it was to size the casings! Yes the Lee was carbide but it was sizing them WAY more than what was necessary. The new one sized cases that chambered perfectly without any trouble, and when I checked a case that was previously sized in the lee, it jiggled around in the new sizing die! The casing was that small. I also think other case mouth expander dies such as the Lyman M dies are far superior. Btw the new die set was a Redding set, though I have since grown to appreciate dies from HORNADY A LOT, as well as Lymans, and rcbs.

My point is I bought the Lee dies because they were cheap and ended up spending more on a better set of dies later anyway. Don't buy based solely on price, research a product before you drop the dough on it. According to my Lee manual, Lee stuff is the best there is. My experiences have been different.
 
Per captain awesome...when buying a ford, buy a mustang, not a fiesta. For what it sounds like you want to do I think the lee dies are more than adequate...that said my die boxes are mostly green. Rcbs is more expensive than lee, but I have no issues with the lee dies I use. Those lee dies have made ragged holes at 200 from the .270, .256, .308 etc.
 
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