Reloading List: What the heck do I need?

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RD16

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I've decided that I would like to start reloading my own ammo, basically as a hobby and as a useful trade. But I'm not exactly sure where to start, in fact, I don't know anyone that reloads. I do know that I'd like to be able to reload both handgun and rifle ammo. Currently my needs would be 9mm, 40 S&W, and .223 Remington. I know I'd like a Single Stage press but I'm not exactly sure what else besides the obvious stuff that I would need. Would anyone be able to give me a quick list of items that I would need to get started with the loads I would like to reload? I'm not asking for advice unless you'd like to give it, just a list of items. Thanks in advance.
 
Requirements...
Reloading dies
Shell holder (if not built into the press)
Priming tool (if not built into the press)
Reloading press
Reloading manual
Calipers (physical measurement)
Powder scale (powder measurement)
Powder dispenser

And of course...
Empty cases
Powder
Bullets
Primers

Then there are some accessories that make things easier....
More reloading manuals
Primer trays (for loading the primer tool)
Kinetic hammer (for removing bullets)
Case storage trays & bins
Ammo storage cases
Case lube
Case lube pad
Tumbler and media
Cartridge gauge
Case trimmers (usually for bottle-neck rifle only)
Sturdy bench
Comfy chair or stool
Dedicated reloading area
Shelves
Filing cabinet
Universal de-capper die
0-1" Micrometer
Chronograph
2010 Dillon calendar


I'll not recommend a particular machine brand because that depends on your budget, your volume of reloading, and other personal factors. You can get to work in a Yugo, but some people prefer the features of a Mercedes. It's the same with the reloading machines. Every machine offered today is well built and worth every penny you pay for it. Some cost $75, some cost $500. As with the example of the automobile... you get exactly what you pay for.

*Some people will argue that the Dillon calendar is a requirement. :D

Hope this helps!
 
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rfwobbly gives a great list.

But from a person who has been in the "buy only what is necessary to start" camp, I would move the tumbler/media up to the requirements list (unless you only want to fire brass one time).

If you are shooting rifle, case lube will also be a requirement when you resize the cases.

These things will cost an extra $50-60, but I feel that they are necessary. Otherwise... great list!
 
Awesome info guys. I really appreciate the willingness to help out a novice. :D
 
Quote: But from a person who has been in the "buy only what is necessary to start" camp, I would move the tumbler/media up to the requirements list (unless you only want to fire brass one time).

Not sure I would agree. A tumbler only makes brass look pretty. "Dirty" (I don't mean grit covered) can be reloaded and fired as many times as tumbled brass. When I started handloading in the 70s, I did not have a tumbler and I managed to reload all my brass multiple times.
 
Read this thread. This is an excellent post listing wha tis needed and what is not. He even recomends several different brand presses in each price range and does not put down a particular brand at all.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=238214

I am in the same place as you are. I am putting together my shopping list and purchasing the equipment piece by piece as I go, and putting it down on my Christmas gift wish list. Hopefully, I will wake up Christmas morning to a reloading party!!

Good luck and stay safe!!!
 
Requirements...
Reloading dies
Shell holder (if not built into the press)
Priming tool (if not built into the press)
Reloading press
Reloading manual
Calipers (physical measurement)
Powder scale (powder measurement)
Powder dispenser
Case Lube
Forster CoAx press Opinion*

And of course...
Empty cases
Powder
Bullets
Primers

Then there are some accessories that make things easier....
More reloading manuals
Primer trays (for loading the primer tool)
Kinetic hammer (for removing bullets)
Case storage trays & bins
Ammo storage cases
Case lube* Move to Requirements
Case lube pad
Tumbler and media
Cartridge gauge
Case trimmers (usually for bottle-neck rifle only)
Sturdy bench
Comfy chair or stool
Dedicated reloading area
Shelves
Filing cabinet
Universal de-capper die
0-1" Micrometer
Chronograph
2010 Dillon calendar... Or Hooters'

Lots of TIME ... you will spend lots of it!!

Jimmy K
 
RD16,

I'd like to suggest a tool that never seems to make anyone's list, until it's needed. It seem that everyone, sooner or later, needs a "stuck case removing tool". It has happened twice in the fifty-six years I've been loading. Sticking a case in a sizing die is a little like passing gas in church. Everyone looks around attempting to look innocent. No one will ever admit to doing it, but it seems like it has happened to the best of people. And those of US who ain't too nice, usually don't go to church anyway. They cost about twelve bucks, and nothing I know of will take their place. Good luck
 
When I started loading many moons ago, I got a press, a set of dies, a shell holder, a scale, a powder funnel, case lube, a deburring tool and a manual. The press came with a priming arm. That along with some components got me started. It wasn't long until I wanted a powder measure. I made my own loading boards. I bought a lead pot, ladle, and one bullet mold for 44. I loaded for 40 years with that many tools plus some more die sets and shell holders for different calibers. Instead of calipers, I kept a factory round for comparison. Dark brass loads just fine. They don't need to be shiny. I trimmed rifle brass with a file. When you don't have loads of money to spend, you can get by and enjoy the hobby any way. A couple of my friends used to come over and load using my tools then later my sons loaded many rounds with these few tools.

I started loading when in High School. 1957. (Ya, I am older than dirt.)
I was approaching retirement age when I finally got a trimmer, tumbler, calipers, and hand priming tool. These things are nice, but not necessary as I know from much experience.

Lots of nice tools out there. Buy what you can afford. If the bug bites, you will never be done buying tools. (within budget) The hobby has let me do lots of shooting over the years that I would not have been able to afford otherwise. Enjoy!
 
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BigBob....I did that a couple of weeks ago....it's quite embarrassing to admit but what the hell, this is the internet....after about 30 minutes of struggling and amazement of how tight the case is in the die I went out and bought a new die set to replace the sizing die....wish I knew about this tool before but I'm defiantely going to pick one up....
 
Gilly... you probably already have what you need to remove that brass...

A socket that will fit over the base of the brass.

A flat washer to cover the end of the socket.

A 'drill bit" tipped metal screw(1/4") long enough to reach into the brass base.

A drill to screw the screw into the brass.

Jimmy K

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=538212&highlight=Stuck+Case+Remover Post #24
 
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If you are thinking of starting with a Lee kit, start with the
Lee 4 Hole Turret Press with Auto Index Deluxe Kit—$110 at Midway. That is $15 more than the press by itself. You can turn the auto-indexing on or off.
The anniversary kit is very good and it is currently on sale at Midway for $82; however, you will probably want to get the new Lee Auto-Prime so you can seat the primers by hand (good way to go for rifle calibers).
It is just that I would rather work from empty case to loaded round one by one rather than resizing 50-100 cases at a time and then priming 50-100 cases at a time and then charging 50-100 cases at a time and then bullet seating 50-100 rounds at a time.
 
I read online that some people say that the Lee's aren't the greatest because the presses are cast and tend to flex more than say....a RCBS. Any truth to that?
 
RD16 said:
I read online that some people say that the Lee's aren't the greatest because the presses are cast and tend to flex more than say....a RCBS. Any truth to that?
I agree with RidgwayCO. Lee makes some decent presses in their mid range. And the classic cast is built like a tank - cast steel. I know, I have one. I also have a Dillon - guess what? It's cast aluminum. Very solid though. In fact, most presses are cast aluminum, iron, or steel. So a good design and plenty of material, in the right places, becomes the most important factors. The Dillon has a much nicer finish, as far as the cast part of it goes, but that part doesn't have a whole lot to do with the function of the press.

Anyway, the point is, Lee appeals to a segment of the market by building a very affordable product. I happen to think the Classic Cast is a real bargain. It has a little issue with spitting primers, and I can see a very simple solution for that, which I would implement if I had a milling machine in the garage. From Lees' perspective, that would probably add $10 to the selling price, which would move the price to where they may not want it to be.
 
The list in post two is great. More specifically, look at the Lee Anniversary set if you want a single stage. It is inexpensive, but of fairly good quality. As soon as you open the box, sell the powder measure and get a good one. I like Hornady, but to each his own.

If you are loading for autoloaders, I really like the Lee Factory Crimp die. It has worked very well for me.

You can't have enough reloading data. Get a few good reloading books. Hornady has a book that outlines the process of reloading, as does Lee. If you shoot cast, most people think the Lee book is indespensable.
 
I've really been looking at the Lee 4 hole turret press a lot. I'm thinking that for starting out that might be the way to go. Now I just need to inform the wife of my intentions. :D
 
Not sure I would agree. A tumbler only makes brass look pretty. "Dirty" (I don't mean grit covered) can be reloaded and fired as many times as tumbled brass. When I started handloading in the 70s, I did not have a tumbler and I managed to reload all my brass multiple times.

I look at a tumbler as a time saver. I can clean 600 cases with only three minutes of my time involved. You won't be able to clean them anywhere close to that fast using any other method.
 
I've really been looking at the Lee 4 hole turret press a lot. I'm thinking that for starting out that might be the way to go. Now I just need to inform the wife of my intentions.

That's a great press. I have been loading on one four years now and am very happy with the set up. Make sure it's the classic turret not the deluxe turret. Check out the kit at www.kempfgunshop.com.
 
Gilly,

I know that feeling of being mortified so well. It's possible to jury rig a case puller, but it seems as if that's when i need to socket. Buy the RCBS puller and then you can have all your tools where you need them. Besides, the best way I know of never sticking another case is too keep your case puller handy.
 
My first couple years of reloading for my an inherited 32 winchester employed a Lee "hand-loader in a box" a few components and a brass hammer. In the 40 years since I have "progressed" up(?) the scale towards the "at least one of everything" point.

For me, reloading has been a life long fine line - balancing economy, practicality, customizing, accurizing and obsession.

I learned early on that the absolute necessity is a tolerant (or better yet, participating) wife.
 
It all in the features

I read online that some people say that the Lee's aren't the greatest because the presses are cast and tend to flex more than say....a RCBS. Any truth to that?

Some Lee presses do; some Lee presses don't. Look brother, the sale of reloading gear is a highly competitive market, so you get exactly what you pay for. There is no doubt that, for new equipment, Lee is clearly the low price leader. And to some people entering the reloading field, "low price" is an attractive and necessary "feature".

So here's the "bottom line":
• If you shop carefully, there are really great deals on some products within the Lee product line. And the converse of that statement is also true. (This can be said for any reloading manufacturer in case anyone thinks I'm picking on Lee.)
• Just like discount cars, which get great tire wear and fuel mileage but have "iffy" sound insulation and handling, you have to be prepared to give up something to go along with the discount. The trick is to discover what you're giving up and decide if you can do without it in the long run. For instance: I drive 4 miles to work, therefore I can do without a GPS system. Follow?
• So stop shopping price and instead shop "features" within your price range. The old saying "Speed, Price, Quality, pick any 2" still holds true.

Hope this helps! ;)
 
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