Getting started, what equipment do I need?

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Guvnor

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Since ammo shortages are probably the new normal, I've decided to start loading my own.

I will primarily be loading .38 special, and to a lesser extant, .32 S&W short/long.

I have ordered the Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Kit.
The kit includes the following:
  • Lee Breech Lock Challenger Single Stage Press
  • 1-Breech Lock Quick Change Die Bushing
  • Lee Auto Prime XR
  • Lee Auto Prime Shellholder Set of 8 (1,2,3,4,5,11,12 and 19)
  • Value Quick Trim Case Trimmer
  • Lee Cutter and Lock Stud
  • Lee Perfect Powder Measure
  • Lee Chamfer Tool
  • Lee Primer Pocket Cleaner
  • Lee Safety Powder Scale
  • Lee Powder funnel
  • 2 oz Tube Lee Resizing Case Lube
What else do I need to get in order to get started? I know I will need to buy dies, but I don't know how many, or what kind.

Since I am loading revolver rounds, will they need to be crimped? Is there a special tool or die for this?

Also, if anyone can recommend a particular powder for this application, I would certainly appreciate it. I intend to primarily load LRN bullets, at relativity low velocity (650-800 fps).

Thank you.
 
A three die set from lee is all you’ll need. You can crimp with the bullet seater die. I started with titegroup powder.
 
I would buy the Lee dies, I have been happy with mine.
I would say spend the few extra $ and get the
Lee Deluxe Carbide 4-Die set
(the 4 die set has and additional crimp die that you may or may not use but is worth having IMO)
Should be available from Amazon, Titan reloading, MidwayUSA, Brownells, Grafs.......(pick your favorite place)
As far as powders there are quite a few that would work.
If you have a local gun store and could tell us what they have in stock we could let you know good choices from that list if there are any.
If you are ordering powder then you can probably get whatever flavor you want,
but be aware there is a Hazmat fee of say $20-$25 on powder orders so it gets costly if you are not ordering 4 or more pounds. (maybe more depending on your load but say 1000-1300 rounds out of a 1 lb.. 1lb=7000gr 7000/charge gives you number of round not account for any spills etc)

You probably will want a loading block
something like this, lots of people make them

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063GT72W/ref=twister_B00W8XHC3A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


Also I do not see a Reloading manual on your list.
Did you get the Lee manual?
If not you need at least 1 manual.
If you don't have the Lee manual already I would suggest Lyman 50, but there are others.

Powder
HP38/W231 (same powder different label, buy whichever is cheapest or available) would not be a bad choice. AA#2 or N320 would also be good.

I believe lots of people like WST for that application (but I have not used it (Note not WSF, WSF is a different watch the last letter) WST might be the cats meow.

Lots of people use Bullseye for that type of load, should shoot well but not as clean as some other powders.

People like different things but I would not recommend Titegroup for a new reloader.
Some people like it because of small charge sizes but not good for a beginner IMO.

Again, best to see what you have local and let us know, then we can make a suggestion.

You can check powder makers web sites to see what will work
You probably want to look for a powder with a faster burn rate as opposed to slower,
Alliant
Hodgdon
Western Powder
Vihtavuorri
for example
 
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Welcome! Looks pretty good—- I think you will need 2-3 more die bushings to make use of the quick change feature of that press. Once you mount a die in the bushing, you will not need to set it again, just a quick twist will remove the die/bushing combo so you can put the next one in, and so on.

There are plenty of opinions on how and what to set up with, but what you described should work.

Lee carbide die sets are pretty good values, particularly for revolver rounds. 3-die sets should work well for you. (Sizing, powder drop/expand, and seat/crimp dies)
I don’t think you’ll need a separate crimp die—the seating die can be adjusted to adequately crimp revolver rounds.

see the following description:


Description
The Lee carbide 3-Die set is a great set of reloading dies for any reloader looking for a set of dies that will produce accurate ammunition for many years. Lee dies are made to exacting tolerances helping to create accurate ammunition every time they are used. Each carbide 3-Die set comes packaged with a carbide sizing die with decapping unit, powder through expanding die (used for expanding and Belling the case mouth while charging the case with powder) and bullet seating die. Each die set comes packaged with the appropriate shellholder, powder Dipper, load data sheet and plastic storage container. One of the great features of carbide dies is that they do not require the cases to be lubricated prior to use like non-carbide dies. Specifications: - cartridge: .32 Smith & Wesson - number of dies: 3 - die type: sizer, expander, and seater - threads: 7/8 inch -14 - shellholder included: yes - storage box included: yes

Best of luck!

Addition: Get a copy of the Lyman 50th reloading manual. Read it!
 
Thank you for all the responses. I will be sure to get a manual, and i'll look into what powders are available locally.

It seems Lee also recommends getting "a Lee Case Length Gauge for trimming cases". Should I get one of these, and why exactly would I need to "trim" cases?

Thanks again
 
For just those two cartridges, you will want some reloading blocks to hold the cases. Personally, I see no need for trimming either of those two. I haven't trimmed either in over 35 years.
Essentially, you need a press, dies, scale, block, components, a GOOD reloading manual, (plus look online for powder maker data). You will also want a kinetic (hammer-type) bullet puller for those OOPS you WILL make, especially getting started.

IIRC, Lee includes the shellholder with the dies. I have two sets of Lee, I prefer RCBS, Forster and Redding - but for what you want to do getting started, the cheaper stuff should suffice just fine.
 
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Like Erief0g said, get a good manual like Lyman 50; not just read, but STUDY the front part until you understand the why of each step. I may have overlooked it, but I didn't see a set of calipers. These are as important as dies. Follow the manual it will tell you what tools you NEED as opposed to what is available. Powder and bullet mfgrs websites have powder options for their products.
 
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I see where you've already purchased a case trimmer, but as mentioned above you won't need to trim your 38 spcl cases. The Lee safety powder scale is "just ok" but buy an electronic powder scale. Hornady and Frankford Arsenal have such that don't break the bank. The Lee scale can become your backup. I bought the Breechlock Challenger Single stage press when I first started reloading about 10 years ago. I'm still using it today and it works great. The Lee 4 die set is preferable to the 3 die set. Go for the 4. Have a fire extinguisher handy and also wear safety glasses.

And as above: calipers

What type/brand revolver will you be reloading for?
 
I would suggest getting a carbide die set. With carbide dies, there is no need to lube pistol brass. If you are going to buy Lee dies (that is what I use), I would go ahead and buy the 4 die set with the factory crimp die. My reasoning is that it is cheaper to buy the 4 die set vs buying the 3 die set and later buying the factory crimp die separately. You may or may not need/want to use the factory crimp die but it is nice to have it.

Everyone else already hit on getting a good manual (or two) and reading it before starting any reloading.

As far as trimming, I don't think that I have ever had to trim any of my pistol brass.

A decent set of dial calipers is a must so that you can get the correct OAL of your rounds.

I would also suggest buying a quick change die bushing for each die. So if you get the 3 die set - buy 3 bushing, 4 die set - 4 bushing. That way once the dies are set, you won't have to mess with them again.

I won't make any suggestions for powder or bullets since I don't reload for either cartridge that you asked about.
 
Sorry, but not for basic straight-walled cases. Have never done it, never will. I crimp when I seat with the same die; have not had to adjust it in 35 plus years reloading the same brass over and over; it crimps perfectly.........every............single................time
 
There are a lot of ways to go about reloading. The two things I'm willing to add to the valid advice already given:

Reloading/handloading should be broken down into two distinct parts: brass preparation and loading. If you're beginning with dirty/fired brass, it should be decapped, cleaned, trimmed (optional in some cases), lubricated, resized and expanded (for handgun) and cleaned again (to remove the lube) before it is loaded. Only after processes that deliver clean brass, and brass that is properly sized for chamber fit, and properly trimmed for headspace (unless it headspaces on the rim like most revolver cartridges), with proper neck tension, and a primer installed, is it really ready to load. Many reloaders shortcut these processes. They will either skip steps or use procedures that combine multiple steps into one. The result is ammo that works but that isn't very good. With a muzzleloader, you just drop powder in, patch, and a cap and ball. You can do a similar thing to a piece of used brass. Pick it up, pop the spent primer out, press a new one in, squeeze the neck down a bit, drop powder, and push a bullet in. What makes the difference for metallic cartridges is the metallic cartridge. You can either pick up scrap and reload it, or you can process the brass into a precision component. Brass processing from dirty/fired cases to ready-to-load precision components can be labor intensive, but some of the procedures can be performed in bulk. The level of precision you strive for is also going to vary based on your use. Obviously, handgun plinking does not call for the same level of scrutiny as bench rest rifle competition. On the other hand, it does normally call for a lot higher volume -- a large quantity of brass.

The main thing that Lee/RCBS/Hornady etc. kits exclude are brass cleaning equipment - mostly because they don't have products for that purpose (Hornady does make some ultrasonic cleaners, but they're not popular, especially with beginners), and because they add substantially to the cost. Equipment to clean a large quantity of brass will cost as much as the rest of the reloading kit. Do you have to clean brass? No, but your product will be dirty junk if you don't.

The second thing I will add is about the powder or smokeless propellant. This is where safety becomes critical, and it is also where the "recipe" either results in consistent, accurate ammunition with the right ballistics for the job or something that works but inconsistently. Some of the key factors to maintain safety is to avoid overcharges that exceed the gun's pressure limits and undercharges or empty cases that result in squib loads and barrel obstructions. To do this on a single stage press involves careful inspection of every case. I recommend using a case block for that -- a tray that holds 50 or 100 rounds mouth up so you can inspect the powder charge in every one and that they are all at the same desired level before you place bullets on them (by hand, to be seated on the press). I also recommend using a powder that is forgiving of inaccuracies and errors in powder charge mass. I would recommend every handloader to start with Hodgdon Trail Boss powder. Even the "Swedish Chef" from the Muppets could reload safely with this stuff. Bullseye? That's like starting a new dope fiend on fentanyl.
 
There are lots of ways to clean brass, some work better that others.
I have a wet tumbler now (Lyman Cyclone) and prefer it by far.
I had a dry vibrator type Frankford I used with corn cob, it worked well but not as good as the wet tumbler.
However when I started loading (and I loaded maybe 3000-4000 rounds before buying something) I didn't have a tumbler.
I soaked the cases in a 5 gallon bucket of water and dish soap, stirred it up every time I walked by, and just let them soak for a week, then dried them out.
Were they spotless and shiny like when the come out of my wet tumbler, no, but they seemed to load and shoot just fine.

You will want something to clean brass down the road, but I think you could get by doing it the way I did when I started for a while.
Others may disagree but I would say load for a while to make sure you enjoy it and want to do it before spending money for a brass cleaning setup.
A dry tumbler setup is around $75-$100 wet tumbler with pins around $200.
When you go to get something I would say the wet setup is worth the extra $, brass comes out like new.
 
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Everyone has developed a process that works for them and as such there are many ways to accomplish the same task. Here is what I recommend and it may work well for you, it works for me and my father before me
1. Lyman 50th reloading manual. The 49th is good as well and older manuals are great if your loading older cartridges. I have the lyman 45th and that still has good data for 38.
2. If you shoot lead unique is your best friend. As a bonus its carried almost everywhere and gives good case fill on cartridges preventing overloads. As an example tightgroup can be tripled in a 38.
3. Get a good dial caliper from mitatoyo, sterrit or brown and sharp. Better quality for less money than digital and no dead batteries.
4. Rcbs makes a good value product for the money and has top notch customer service. I like their dies and buy them when I need a set. Lee dies are good but if you load lead stay away from the factory crimp die with the sizing ring.
5. And last but not least if you can find a local mentor this will be your best asset.
 
Thanks everyone for all the helpful advice...i look forward to getting started
 
WST will work great for both of those, but so will others. Most people don't trim their cases (I do), and if you use a light to medium taper crimp it won't really matter anyway, so no need for that to start. You can even get by (mostly) with a very light roll crimp with untrimmed cases. Like I said, most folks never trim .38 Spl and like their results. I would buy RCBS dies, but that's just me, the Lee dies work.
 
To get safely started; manual/load book, dial calipers, kinetic bullet puller, added bushings.

Read the manual and then look thru the load data to get an idea of what is available for loading such as powder and bullets. From there check locally for powders. primers and bullets to see if you can match up a published load. It will make it really that much easier to get started and to know your load is in a safe zone. Cabela's and a few others all carry components to help you get started. Cabela's may not be the cheapest solution but they usually have a fairly good selection.

In my opinion a good general cast 38/357 Round Nose or Semi Wad Cutter with a crimp groove is a best choice. They are easy to load, reliable and fairly inexpensive. It's what I started with in 1980.
 
Yes, calipers. Digital or dial. You should be able to find one for around $20. Even the Harbor Freight calipers are good enough. Also Neiko (I have these) is a good brand on Amazon. There are lots of choices!
 
Lots of good information here for you!
Get carbide dies, it doesn’t matter whose, but make sure they’re carbide so you don’t have lube the cases. You may lube if you desire, but you don’t have to.
Take some time to think about your overall process and get a notebook, either paper or soft copy to keep track of what you’re doing. Good luck!
 
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