Ginger vs Mary Ann or Wolf vs. Tula 5.56

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BSA1

BSA1

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I am tired of feeding the Brass God at my outdoor range so I want to try steel case 5.56 ammunition. So what is your preference for;

Tula or Wolf 55 gr. FMJ?

Tula or Wolf 62 gr. FMJ?

Primary gun is AR with 16" 1 in 9 twist barrel.



p.s. Mrs. Howell is not a option.
 
As a general rule I've found the 62gr offerings to be too lightly loaded for piston guns (AR, Tavor, MSAR). But I haven't tried any in a pretty long time, so maybe they have fixed this in current production.

With the 55gr, I don't see a lick of difference between Wolf and Tula and buy whatever is cheapest or available.

I find they shoot pretty solid 2 moa in known to be accurate guns, the XM193 generally does about the same when I shoot it.
 
I've blazed through a lot of Tula 55gr ammo in my ARs and never had any problems. I read somewhere that the bi-metal jackets are harder on barrels and estimates seem to be about 50% of normal barrel life than shooting copper jacketed bullets. But I see AR barrels as cheaply and easily replaced so I shoot the bi-metal rounds.
 
Ginger. Can't help it, redheads are my weakness...but then again Mrs Howells purse could buy me lots of fun things once she kicks the bucket...sugar mama.

On another note, I stick with ginger...or red...Monarch. It is still brass but it's decent ammo at a good price. I have seen it cheaper than "name brand" steel cases.
 
More like Roseanne or Rosie O'Donnell.

Reloading isn't an overnight skill, BUT it's a way to stay away from those steel cases. Frankly, I prefer handloading ammo to shooting it. I shoot so I can get cases to reload. And better yet, my cartridges are fast, accurate, and feed as slick as hot snot.

It saves the environment too, because I store my ammo in reloadable ammo cans and don't waste all the packaging retail ammo comes in. ;-)
 
In case you havent tried it, dont buy a case, that sticky case legend is not a joke, and Ginger
 
I have been pleasantly surprised at the recent 62 gr zinc washed FMJ from Tula. The case I recently bought has been MUCH more accurate than other steel cased ammo I tried in the past. Agree it does seem to be loaded a little lighter, but for paper punching and plinking who cares?
 
I've compared figures and I can't reload 223 much cheaper than I can buy steel cased stuff, about $0.03 or 0.04 cheaper per round than just buying steel case. And right now, that just isn't enough saving to justify my time spent trimming, inspecting, and reloading 223.

All of my ARs are builds using modest priced components so shooting steel doesn't bother me in the least. Worst case scenario is I have to spend $80-$90 on a new barrel. Extractors and bolts are cheap and so far mine are still a-ok.
 
Watching the show when originally aired......Mary Ann

Today......Mary Ann

BTW when "Mrs. Howell" did kick the bucket she left most of it to "Mary Ann"

I have shot a few hundred Wolf 55grain FMJ in a class in an AR180 (Sterling) and noticed none of the dreaded coating melt. Someone else shot the class with a Mini-14 without issue. Biggest issue for both of us was being grumbled at by brass vultures upset with us littering the range with steel. One got doubly mad when rather than bending to pick up brass cases during breaks so the brass pickers could argue about who the varius bits of brass belonged to I just used a tool nail retriever (magnet on a stick used by roofers after a job to find and recover nails) to harvest my own and the Lady's "hulls"

I have only used wolf so can't say which other than " I use Wolf and only 55 grain." But remember the AR-180 is 1 in 12 and the Mini-14 is a 1 in 10 IIRC.

I have not fired either from the HBAR and likely won't (Just in case) but look forward to trying some in the new PSA build.

MMMMM......coconut pie......mmmm served up by Mary Ann in her Daisy May's (no Daisy Duke yet when she was cooking them things) MMMMMMM, YUM!

-kBob
 
Olympus said:
I've compared figures and I can't reload 223 much cheaper than I can buy steel cased stuff, about $0.03 or 0.04 cheaper per round than just buying steel case. And right now, that just isn't enough saving to justify my time spent trimming, inspecting, and reloading 223.

All of my ARs are builds using modest priced components so shooting steel doesn't bother me in the least. Worst case scenario is I have to spend $80-$90 on a new barrel. Extractors and bolts are cheap and so far mine are still a-ok.
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Assuming you shoot 2000 round per year, over a ten year period, the cost of a basic reloading set-up ( and I mean basic) averages out to 1.75 cents per round.

Assuming you buy reloading components in lots of 2000, (the price doesn't drop much above this level), the cost of components is 21.3 cents per round.

If your time is free for a 55 grain M193-clone loading, the total cost per round is 23 cents per round.

The current lowest price for 55 grain steel cased .223 is 22 cent per round.

Brass cased stuff starts at about 30 cents.

However, it is with the match/accurate bullets reloading starts to break even. Not to mention the ability to tailor loads.
 
With guns, when you ask which one, someone always say get both. That might be difficult with women.
 
no personal experience with it, but I have hear the brown bear stuff is better than the wolf. But that is hearsay.

as far as relaoading, I can't reload 223 much cheaper than a steel case, and it sure is a lot of work.
 
no personal experience with it, but I have hear the brown bear stuff is better than the wolf. But that is hearsay.
Click to expand...

The OP didn't ask about BrownBear/Monarch. I've shot lots of it, with no problems, but generally the Wolf/Tula is cheaper and more readily available. The BB/Monarch steel cased is still the old lacquer coated cases as opposed to the "new" polymer coated cases of the Wolf/Tula. I've no evidence that its more or less accurate than the Wolf/Tula -- I only shoot these low cost rounds at paper for an initial sighting in.

as far as relaoading, I can't reload 223 much cheaper than a steel case, and it sure is a lot of work.
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This. For a lot of recreational shooting 2 moa ammo is more than good enough.

I shoot a lot of steel plates at my friends ranch and would lose most of the brass in the weeds making reloading even more expensive, another plus is that the steel cases rust away to nothing in a few years so his pastures don't end up looking like the streets of Mogadishu :)


Who's time is actually free? I certainly agree that for match quality loads reloading is the way to go unless you have money to burn, in which case there is also no reason to consider steel cased ammo. Although I'm getting good results with Hornady Steel Match at 300 yards in my Ruger Precision Rifle, At $0.85/round I've not done better with other "low end" match ammo running $1.25-1.50 per round -- it may very well be my skill is the limiting factor at this point, but I'll get more practice at $0.85/round than with "better" more expensive ammo.
 
Mary Ann. Those farm girls have seen it all.
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And done it all as well ... which really makes for the more interesting question, if you think on it.

No doubt Ginger was smokin' hot, ... but doesn't MaryAnn bring a lot of that suppressed-horny-farm-girl to the table? :eek: ... or on it? :evil:
 
The three steel cased rds that I've had stuck in my AR's have all been Tula. That hasn't happened with Wolf. So .... I pick Wolf.

Also don't mix brass with steel cased ammo. For whatever reason that'll screw things up and you'll get a stuck case.

(Yea. Yea...I've heard all the reasons *WHY* mixing brass/steel results in stuck cases, just don't know for certain if any of them are the real causes. As a result I can't say with a certainty why you shouldn't mix the two, just don't do it).

On the other part....Wolf is Mary-Ann. Ginger sits on her ass all day trying to look good (and in the Tula's case failing miserably).
 
Comparing Wolf to Tula is more like comparing the old East German women's swimming team to the Soviet women's power lifting team.

Mary-Ann and Ginger would be at least equal to Winchester or Lake City!

As far as Wolf vs Tula? That seems more like comparing store brands of long ago expired diet soda. I can't tell the difference. I'll shoot the stuff in my 5.56 AK, but even when shooting close range reaction drills, I use brass cased ammo in AR's.

Even the AK will rip the rim off of a brass case if you shoot it after firing a bunch of steel. If you load a brass case for every 7 or 8 steel rounds in the mag, that doesn't happen.

Either that, or brush and mop the chamber well with some B12 Chemtool before you shoot any brass if you've fired a couple mags worth of steel.
 
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