Glass Bedding?

[Bobson]

Got a rifle coming soon, and I'm thinking it'll probably benefit from glass bedding. Will see how it shoots first, of course, but unless it's shooting half-MOA or something like that, I'll probably glass bed the action just to see if it will get shooting a bit better.

Here are two kits we're considering:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/790049/miles-gilbert-bedrock-glass-bedding-kit

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1406321274/score-high-pro-bed-2000-glass-bedding-kit

The minor cost difference isn't important; both kits are a lot cheaper than expected. I'd gladly pay double for a different kit if I had enough reason to believe it to be a genuinely superior product.

If it matters, the rifle is a Savage 110 .30-06, topped with a new 3-9x40 VX1. We have no expectations of it being any sort of precision rifle, but if we can get sub-MOA accuracy from it, great. Will keep the original synthetic stock for now, and if bedding doesn't get us to where we want to be, we'll consider upgrading that a bit later.

Hoping anyone has experience glass bedding a rifle, and possibly with one of these two products. Or, if there's another kit somewhere else that I should consider using, please tell me about it. Thanks a bunch.

BTW, my "knowledge" of bedding technique is coming pretty much exclusively from this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVaj_pGO1_Y

If you notice him doing anything I should avoid, and want to let me know, that'd be great.

 

[243winxb]

Expect accuracy around 1 1/4" on average firing 4-5 shot groups. Bedding does not make average barrels into benchrest rifles. The first kit looks good. Have not used it.

 

[weaselfire]

Either kit works. But the rifle is, to begin with, not one that you'll see much of a benefit from bedding on.

Jeff

 

[shootstraight57]

You might want to make sure the barrel is free floated also. Barrel reflex has alot to do with accuracy also.

 

[MtnCreek]

I will mention that I am Not a gunsmith..

I've used the score high kit and acuraglass. Either will work.

I din't watch the link video. Couple things I've done:

Don't bed the rear tang on a savage.
Pillar bedding a savage is a pain (rear pillar is notched).
Used blue painters tape anywhere I needed clearance (around barrel, front/bottom/sides of lug, ...).
Spend more time prepping the action than bedded.

FWIW, the savage tupperware stock will still flex, but it's a fun exercise either way.

 

[Bobson]

Thanks guys. We'll see how it shoots and go from there. Hard to be patient waiting for it to get here lol

 

[X-Rap]

Aren't at least some of the synthetic Savage stocks hollow and skeletenized?
Not sure if that will be conducive to barrel bedding.

 

[Bobson]

Aren't at least some of the synthetic Savage stocks hollow and skeletenized?
Not sure if that will be conducive to barrel bedding.

IDK, hadn't heard of that. We'll check and see and report back once it's in hand.

 

[Kp321]

Can't help on the bedding kits, I only use Acraglas from Brownells, normally the gel product. It stays put during the process better than the original liquid formula.
I do many of the "Tupperware" stocks like Savage and Remington use. They both have a big open area in front of the action area. Since I normally bed the chamber area of the barrel, this area needs to be filled in. I put a modeling clay dam at the front of the area I want bedded then fill it in. Either fill totally with bending compound which is best but wasteful or take up some space with a filler such as styrofoam or Bondo. Just be sure there is a good thickness of bedding compound between the barrel and filler. The plastic used in these stocks does not bond well to the bedding compound so I rough up the inside of the stock with a burr in my Dremel.
Good luck and use plenty of release agent!

 

[Bobson]

The plastic used in these stocks does not bond well to the bedding compound so I rough up the inside of the stock with a burr in my Dremel.

What about sanding with a heavy grit (60-80?) sandpaper? I'm sure it'd be more time-consuming, but would it work as well as roughening it with a dremel? Would it possibly work better?

I wouldn't be opposed to buying two kits and filling the hollowed fore-end with the same compound just to help reinforce it... while still making sure the barrel is floated, of course.

 

[243winxb]

Savage 110 Bedding.

This video may be closer to the type of rifle your getting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=re3s8_1167E Not sure i like that much tang clearance?? Make sure the bedding compound will stick to the stock type. I would guess wood or plastic will make a difference. I have only worked with wood and Brownells accuglass. Do test fire the rifle first, using the Savage barrel break in method, in the instructions. Good luck.

 

[Clark]

I bought a 1972 Sav 110 in 2013 for $240.


I milled out a cheap Boyd's laminate pro varmint stock that did not fit the action, but I MADE IT fit the action.




I made the Savage 110 pillars with:
1) 5/8" 6061 Round aluminum rod, cheap at ENCO or SpeedyMetals
2) ribs to grip the epoxy
3) trigger relief cut
4) concave top that fits receiver bottom radius minus deformation from pre compression when bedding (somehow too hard to do for most gunsmiths, and I am just an amateur on my first Savage.)
5) flat on the bottom to fit the Sav 110 bottom metal.



I use devcon putty
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-bedding-adhesives/epoxy-metals-prod5808.aspx
Here is there foam inside the pillar to mask off epoxy.
Washers are used to get screws tightened to maximum torque without bottom metal.
This is to compress the Aluminum pillars and get a tight fit to the receiver while the the epoxy hardens.
This was a clearanced fit, so I used a machinist's level [not shown] to fixture the barrelled action in the barrel vise, and the level again to place the stock over the action while the epoxy hardens.


Here is the rifle painted. Cheap rifle to build with scope that costs more than twice the build.


Here is the first 5shot group at 100 yards.
Those are .224" holes.
It is under 1/2 inch.

 

[Bobson]

Great job on the build, Clark. Looks great, and obviously shoots too. I was looking at that stock. You remember what it weighs?

 

[Clark]

Thanks,
I have done enough shooting when I lived in snohomish 1984-99. I would go South on a logging road from Ben Howard Road out of Monroe. I would shoot a Sav 110 in 30-06. Bent black tips gave me the best groups
My reloading was just getting started.

The boyds pro varmint have got a thick black paint and weigh 3 pounds.
I like to paint them with Aluma-hyde II. It is cheap and it is good long lasting, but ya gotta spray on warm things.
That stuff does not like Snohomish weather.
Make a paint box out of cardboard and heat it.
Waiting for 90 degree days may take years.

I did not have time to paint a Dumoulin Mauser in 6.5-06 with pro varmint stock this fall. I hunted with it black and got away with it. Sometimes black things can be untouchable in the sun.

I bought another Sav 110 tonight, at DJ's. That is the nearest good gun store for Snohomish.

629 yards

 

[Bobson]

Cool, thanks for the heads up

 

[MtnCreek]

I wouldn't be opposed to buying two kits and filling the hollowed fore-end with the same compound just to help reinforce it... while still making sure the barrel is floated, of course.

In my limited experience the stock will still flex just in front of the recoil lug.

 

[weaselfire]

Bedding synthetic stocks, I rough them up with coarse sandpaper. I usually use epoxy as a filler, Acraglas gel to bed. I tried expanding foam as a filler but it's harder to control and needs more work. But it depends on the stick weight and balance you're looking for.

As long as you're not expecting a bench rest rifle, go slow in the prep and pay attention and you'll do fine.

Jeff