Glock 17 Trigger. Is this normal? (Pics)

[Waffen]

Hey guys,

I just picked up my first Glock this past week at Cabelas. It's a Glock 17 RTF2. I've been a bench rest/target rifle shooter and reloader for a long time, but wanted to pickup a Glock before we eventually can't own these kind of things anymore.

Being that I'm used to triggers in measured in ounces and not lbs, the glock trigger is really something I'm struggling to get used to. I did the .25 cent trigger job with a felt dremel wheel and rouge this morning, and took the pistol to the range. Initially I had a creep free, but heavy 8lb pull. After 25 or 30 rounds, the pull suddenly got exceptionally heavy (20lbs). I didn't have a punch with me, so all I could do was pull the slide. I noticed that the connector and trigger bar were no longer in contact. Almost as if the trigger bar had worked it's way out of contact with the connector. I could push the trigger bar back down to engage the connector, and then attach the slide. Even after doing that, the pull was still in the 20lb range.

It's obvious this was some sort of malfuction caused by my poor mans trigger job, and I suspected that I had over polished the connector. I started calling around and found the only place in town that carried connectors. I picked up a standard Ghost 3.5 connector and a wolf spring kit. I've installed all those parts and the trigger feels much better. It's still got quite a bit of creep, but I think it's about as good as I'm going to get this thing.

That being said, the trigger bar is still popped out to the side of the connector. It seems to have no impact on the trigger pull, but I'm just curious, is this normal? I can reset it and dry fire, then pull the slide and it's back out again. Thoughts?

If you look below at the connector/trigger bar you'll see the trigger bar popping up.

Edit:
MOVIE HERE: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99y6TMtEdLc

 

[GLOOB]

That's abnormal, and I don't think any amount of bad polishing is responsible.

The disconnector should spring outward. The trigger bar should never be able to pop around it, unless you were to remove the plastic pin and pull out the entire assembly. (You replaced that plastic pin in the rear of the grip after you reassembled the pistol, right? In your picture, it looks like your trigger group housing is not inserted all the way. It's normal for the trigger bar to fall out in this position.)

I'll take a look at mine to see if I can tell you anything more. I've been in bed all weekend with a chill, so it'll be good exercise.

*Edit: Nope. I can't find any other reason. Unless your Glock frame is defective, or unless you forgot to reinsert that plastic pin, it's likely a bent disconnector. (Or rather, a NOT-bent disconnector). So basically, make sure your disconnector doesn't lay flat against the housing, where it's inserted. It should be bent outward at around 15 degrees, keeping pressure against the end of the trigger bar and holding it captive against the frame.

 

[Waffen]

GlOOB,

Thanks for the response. I was sure to replace the pin that goes into the rear grip so I think I'm good there. I also don't think it's the disconnecter because I've replaced it with the ghost connector and had the exact same thing happen. I've also ensured that it's bent the appropriate 15 degrees outward. Neither are laying flat against housing, making me think it's the trigger bar if anything.

The frame seems ok to me?

 

[GLOOB]

Well, yeah. If the end of the trigger bar isn't laying flat against the right side of the frame, that's not right. That bar is pretty darn stiff, though. I can't imagine how you could have bent it. And if it were bent that bad, I can't imagine how it would still work, at all! Maybe you could take a pic directly from above?

 

[Waffen]

Here it is from above.

 

[GLOOB]

Meh, can't really see what I wanted, as that's from a bit of an angle.

Here's the view I was interested in:

http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv241/gloob27x/tb.jpg

You can see the folded over end of the disconnector is just a couple hundredths of an inch away from touching the right frame. There's no space for the trigger bar to squeeze past it.

 

[Waffen]

It's poking out. I'll try to find my camera charger to take a short movie. Thanks for your help by the way.

 

[jfrey]

Curious: if you push the trigger bar forward does it pop back into place? My G36 does that when I take the slide off but I had an armorer look at it and he said it was fine. It doesn't do it with the slide in place.

 

[Waffen]

jfrey,

Yes, if I push the trigger bar down or forward it goes right back into place.

 

[Thlax]

Don't know about the trigger...

But I'm sure we'll still be able to buy Glocks for a long time..

Goodluck with the trigger-thankfully glock has a pretty awesome warranty.

 

[GLOOB]

None of my Glocks has ever popped a trigger bar with the slide off. I would never have imagined that would be considered normal. I don't have a G36 or a G17, though.

 

[aryfrosty]

Glockits aren't going anywhere...

They have survived everything the antis can toss at them. Having said that I would like to suggest that I would NEVER polish a connector or other pieces in a Glock. And in addition, you can buy an orange slide plate to install while you work the assembly to get it right BEFORE you try to fire it. Please never try to fire anything you have worked on, especially a Glock, before you are sure it works right. You can potentially wind up with a chambered and cocked Glock and no way to fire it or clear it. Also I won't put a 3.5# connector in a carry Glock. 5# is great for a carry gun. 3.5# is good for a range only Glock. My last Glock was a 5# in a G-32 and it was so smooth when I took it to the range that the second guy to shoot it...( The owner... I always shoot my work first)... swore that the connector was a 3.5#. Just my opinion.

 

[Waffen]

Movie of it here available here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99y6TMtEdLc

 

[GLOOB]

Interesting. I'm going with this:

When your Glock's disconnector gets pushed in, the trigger bar is supposed to be able to slide past the connector. But in your Glock the trigger bar actually moves up a bit, out of place. But when you're actually shooting it, the slide would cycle, and the trigger bar would get pushed back down. So it wouldn't affect functionality.

I wonder if it's because the nub at the forward part of your trigger bar (which normally presses the firing pin safety plunger) is too short. Maybe you polished it down a bit?

*Edit: Oh, wow.
I found out if I retract my slide back a little farther than usual when I field strip, the trigger bar can get out past the connector somewhat like yours (only it's poking through the connector but still wedged down below the housing top, not popping up as high as yours). But I have to retract the slide till I feel a little force and actually hear the click as the trigger bar escapes! Maybe your Glock just disconnects a little earlier, making it more kB-proof than the average Glock? Try pulling the slide back just a tiny bit less when you field strip. I'm curious if it still pops out. BTW, the trigger bar pops back just by putting the slide back on, so I can't see any harm if the gun always goes bang. I just think maybe your safety plunger nub is a tad bit short (maybe model specific), allowing the bar to rise higher - in combination with the a bit of an earlier disconnect, possibly from the aftermarket part made a little tighter in this regard.

Of course, none of this explains why your trigger pull suddenly changed from 8 lbs to 20 lbs while you were shooting it.

 

[Waffen]

Good thought Gloob. I'm not sure. I thought I was generous on the polishing of that point. I think I'll pick up one of those Glockworx alum triggers w/ attached trigger bars. It's something I've wanted to do, and it would make me feel better about it. At least at this point it's down to a manageable weight. I'll take it to the range and shoot mags with two rounds tomorrow just to be safe.

 

[GLOOB]

But try field stripping again. You only need to pull the slide back 1/16 inch or so after dry firing. If the trigger bar is popping out during the disconnect, you will probably be able to field strip it without the bar popping out, if you're careful (and you should hear it click as you retract the slide, at any rate). If this is the case, then I wouldn't worry about it. If it's popping out after dry firing, then I think that would be weird, considering the work you did on it and the odd experience at the range.

Good luck with the new Glock. If your trigger job doesn't work out, maybe you can just get used to the stock trigger! It's pretty good for us mortals!

 

[DBR]

You REALLY do need to get the half height rear slide cover plate so you can see the cruciform (sear) engagement with the striker. If the engagement isn't enough you risk the gun randomly firing more than one round with a single trigger pull or firing another round on trigger release.

I know Glock claims you can disassemble several Glock pistols, mix the parts, and reassemble working pistols BUT the sear/striker engagement can vary quite a bit and in some cases can be dangerous.

The guns with the "best" trigger pulls will be the ones that are marginal. I have had a couple myself when I changed out grooved triggers for smooth ones. Swapping parts around fixes the problem. It is just a tolerance stack up.

 

[Waffen]

I'm taking it back out this morning. We'll see what happens. I'll use mags loaded with just two rounds to avoid anything stupid. If after 100 rounds I'm not having any problems, I'll start loading them up.

Thanks guys!

 

[Waffen]

Hey guys,

I just got back from the range after putting 400 rounds down it. The Glock shot very well, and the lightened/smoothed trigger made all the difference with my groups. I did have a few instances of FTE, and the slide not holding open on the last round. I suspect thats just because the S&B rounds I shot weren't very hot.

Thanks for the sanity check!