Glock 19 trigger

[dwight.hopkins.96]

Don't know if there are any Glock fans here but I have a question regarding the G19 Gen 4 trigger. I'm new to Glocks and fairly new to polymer guns in general. I recently bought the afore-mentioned gun and wasn't too happy with the trigger so I bought one of the Ghost 3.5 lb connectors to see if that would help. I'd say it's better but still not what I call good. My biggest problem is with the reset and I'm wondering if it's me or the gun. About one round out of every mag I end up with the trigger not re-setting. I hold the trigger back completely through the shot then release to reset prior to the next shot. When the malfunction occurs the trigger simply stays back and I have to rack the slide to get it to reset. I've done a lot of gun smithing through the years so I'm confident in my abilities there and have went back through everything assembly wise just to make sure. Do I have a real problem here or is it me and I just need more trigger time with this thing?

 

[Zerodefect]

Connector is too aggressive. Make sure the striker spring is stock. My Zev connector did that to. Tried to un Glock a Glock trigger. Not a good idea.

Try a Lone Wolf 3.5 connector, Glock 35 smooth trigger, enhanced trigger spring, and sand smooth the 35 trigger shoe and safety for a nice flush feel.

Polish the connector, fp safety, and trigger cross.

 

[readyeddy]

Sounds like a problem to me.

I must have bought every type of aftermarket trigger part in search of a better Glock trigger. Most of them resulted in some type of malfunction that made them unacceptable.

My conclusion is to only use Glock parts, including Glock connectors and Glock trigger springs. I settled on combining a Glock 3.5 connector and a Glock NY1 trigger spring. This give a 5 pound revolver like pull with less stacking.

 

[Warp]

The best way to make a Glock malfunction is to change something internally.

 

[GLOOB]

I hold the trigger back completely through the shot then release to reset prior to the next shot. When the malfunction occurs the trigger simply stays back and I have to rack the slide to get it to reset.

The trigger resets as follows:

The slide goes back, pushing the disconnector. This allows the sear to pop up and be in a position to catch the striker as the slide returns forward. The striker is pulled back partially when the slide cycles.

If your trigger won't reset and it just stays back, it means that the striker potentially cycled back and forth without being caught by the sear. That means your striker potentially went forward. With the trigger held back. And the firing pin safety deactivated.

So yeah, maybe you need to figure this out before you go shooting it again. This sounds like it could be a recipe for an unintentional mag dump.

FYI, I have a few Glocks, and I've done some polishing. And I am convinced that it has never made a single iota of improvement in my Glock triggers. The metal surfaces are all nickel plated, and this nickel rubbing on nickel self-polishes the contact surfaces quite quickly. Polishing just reduces their lifespan before the thin plating is gone and the copper underneath it is exposed. The 25 cent Glock trigger job is not worth 1 cent, IMO.

Some of my Glock triggers are nicer than others. After polishing, this doesn't change... at least not for the better. It can make them worse.

 

[Olympus]

I have 4 Glocks and all of them have a Ghost Edge 3.5 connector and I've never had that problem.

Put the factory connector back in and see if that solves the problem. If so, call Ghost and tell them what their connector is doing and they will likely send you a replacement.

 

[the duck of death]

"QUOTE"

The best way to make a Glock malfunction is to change something internally.


To bad you can't shoot mine--2 lb trigger & no take up--100% reliable.

 

[whatnickname]

Check your trigger return Spring

The condition you describe can be caused by the improper installation of the trigger return spring that sits under the sear. Looking at the housing for the sear (you will have to take it out of the frame) the trigger return spring loops that attach to the trigger bar and the back of the block in the rear should resemble the letter S. Which is to say that the loop that attaches up front of to the trigger bar should have the tag end facing downward. The loop that attaches to the block toward the rear should be facing up.

If you really want a fantastic trigger for your Glock then invest in the Fulcrum trigger manufactured by Zev Technology. They are not inexpensive but there will be no take up on that trigger and it will break like glass. I have a G22 that will run as fast as a 1911 and with nearly the same dynamics as the 1911. The balance of the "quick fixes" out there will make things better but what you are asking for in terms of performance is the Fulcrum trigger! You can get them from Brownells.

 

[Warp]

To bad you can't shoot mine--2 lb trigger & no take up--100% reliable.

I have literally zero desire...actually, make that negative desire...for that type of trigger on any of my pistols. So far I only have pistols for defense, and that's a no-go.

 

[Jesse H]

I use the factory "minus" connector on my Gen 4's. Similar pull weight to the aftermarket 3.5 lb connectors, but reliable. I also take some time with a polishing stone on all the contacting parts. It won't be life changing but it's nicer.

 

[readyeddy]

I tried the Fulcrum trigger. Too many problems. It's adjustable for pull weight and over travel. If you leave it like a stock trigger, then it functions ok. But try to eliminate over travel and it fails to reset and you need to remove the rear cover and take out the firing pin in order to remove the slide. Mine sits in my parts bin.

 

[the duck of death]

"QUOTE"
I have literally zero desire

Your desire has little to do with its 100% reliability.

 

[Warp]

Your desire has little to do with its 100% reliability.

Nobody said or implied that it was impossible to modify a Glock trigger and have it be reliable. But there certainly is a bad track record of Glocks messing up after people mess around under the hood.

BTW, the weight or travel or creep of the trigge also has little do with its reliability, but you decided that was worth mentioning. Likewise, my (and many others) not wanting such a light trigger is worth mentioning.

 

[bophi]

a ny 8 lb, and 3.5 connector is what i have in my glocks. nice short reset and a steady take up.

 

[481]

Don't know if there are any Glock fans here but I have a question regarding the G19 Gen 4 trigger. I'm new to Glocks and fairly new to polymer guns in general. I recently bought the afore-mentioned gun and wasn't too happy with the trigger so I bought one of the Ghost 3.5 lb connectors to see if that would help. I'd say it's better but still not what I call good. My biggest problem is with the reset and I'm wondering if it's me or the gun. About one round out of every mag I end up with the trigger not re-setting. I hold the trigger back completely through the shot then release to reset prior to the next shot. When the malfunction occurs the trigger simply stays back and I have to rack the slide to get it to reset. I've done a lot of gun smithing through the years so I'm confident in my abilities there and have went back through everything assembly wise just to make sure. Do I have a real problem here or is it me and I just need more trigger time with this thing?

Perhaps the issue can be remedied by going with the OEM minus connector is a possible solution?

 

[sothoth]

Personally I think the best advice is to get used to the trigger it came with. It's a good trigger.

 

[Deanimator]

I've got one each 2nd Gen Glock 19 and 22. They both have 3.5lb. Ghost connectors. I've also done the "$0.25" trigger job on both. I have NO trigger reset (or other mechanical) problems with them AT ALL.

 

[Deanimator]

Personally I think the best advice is to get used to the trigger it came with. It's a good trigger.

My Glock 22 came with a NY Trigger, the Glock 19 with an 8lb. factory (I think) connector (it was used). The NY trigger was ODIOUS, and the 8lb. not much better. With the 3.5lb. Ghost connector, I could shoot a bullseye match with the Glock 22 if it had a dot sight on it.

I wouldn't carry a Glock with anything else in it now.

 

[jmr40]

I shoot the 5.5 lb factory trigger the best. It is about technique. The 3.5 lb triggers are lighter, but mushy and unpredictable in my experience.

 

[sothoth]

What's an NY trigger?

 

[sothoth]

What's an NY trigger?

Never mind. I just discovered this amazing thing called Google and figured it out

 

[sothoth]

My Glock 22 came with a NY Trigger... I wouldn't carry a Glock with anything else in it now.

I'll check that one out. Easy to install?

 

[Honcho]

Hey the_duck_of_death, what kind of trigger and mods do you have? This sounds like something I am interested in. Thanks

 

[edmo01]

To the OP, your GLOCK has a problem...

As others have said, for trouble-shooting I would put the stock parts back in and see if the problem goes away.

I own and carry GLOCKs for self defense applications. For this reason I keep them stock and have accepted the spongy stock trigger at around 5-6 pounds. With the stock parts they have all been 100% reliable.

My "good" triggers are on my revolvers and 1911s which are generally my range toys.

Edmo

 

[Deanimator]

I'll check that one out. Easy to install?

I THINK I got my Ghost triggers from Glockmeister. It's been years since I put them in.

The difference between the 3.5lb. Ghost and the NY Trigger is simply AMAZING, especially combined with the "$0.25 trigger job". It's no wonder that the only safe place to be when the NYPD starts shooting is where they're aiming.