glock 27 that won't blow up?

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Phineas Dregg

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I'd like a glock, but I really like 40 S&W, and I've heard that the glocks in that caliber tend to be a little more prone to going kaboom than the other caliber glocks.

I noticed that lone wolf sells a replacement barrel:

http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=999&CAT=238

Does this remedy the KB problem? Does anyone have any experience with these? Is the firearm just as reliable with these replacement barrels?

Thanks,

Phin
 
The Glock KB problem is mostly an internet myth. It's certainly not anything to be replacing parts over.

My main concerns with a Glock 27 would be 1.) .40 Glocks are not as durable or as reliable as their 9mm counterparts, and 2.) .40 subcompacts of any make are pretty difficult to shoot well. YMMV.

-C
 
Unless you are using overpressure reloads, lead bullets or reuse the same brass 3+ times you have nothing to worry about.
 
The Glock KB problem is mostly an internet myth. It's certainly not anything to be replacing parts over.

My main concerns with a Glock 27 would be 1.) .40 Glocks are not as durable or as reliable as their 9mm counterparts, and 2.) .40 subcompacts of any make are pretty difficult to shoot well. YMMV.

-C
Definitely not a myth but also not something to worry over. They are less tolerant to bad reloads and weak cases than other 40's.
 
could you explain the durability/reliability problem. What is it that's breaking and how is it malfunctioning?
Some of the parts breakages that have been observed in .40 Glocks include rear frame rails, trigger springs, and recoil spring guide rods. There was also an issue that I recall with some Glock 22s and 23s involving malfunctions when a light was mounted to the frame - this doesn't apply directly to the G27 of course, but may indicate a systemic problem.

As an aside, the Gen4 .40 Glocks don't seem to suffer any of these problems, while the Gen4 9mms are plagued with extraction problems. Go figure.

In the end, I don't suggest .40 in anything, unless you have some requirement that only .40 can fill. For a defensive or carry gun, the 9x19 does everything that the .40 does, cheaper and with less recoil.

-C
 
That's why I said "mostly." Its certainly possible to blow up any gun, and the .40 is a fairly high-pressure cartridge. I've blown up a Glock 35 myself through careless handloading practices. ;)

-C
One of the advantages of living in GA is that I can drop by Glock anytime. I had a VERY EARLY G23 that blew out a case but didn't "Kaboom". I dropped by Smyrna and they replaced the frame with a Gen 3 RTF2 and mag for free in about 30 mins. When I got home I pulled all of the rounds from the box and found 2 with bulged brass (Atlanta Arms Reloads). My guess is these were from a Glock as well :)
 
As long as you get a 3gen or newer, you should be fine as long as you don't fire over-pressure loads (ie, hot handloads) or get sloppy about brass inspection if you reload. The small unsupported part of the chamber significantly helps feeding, but it used to be too deep --I understand they changed this angle with the 3gen.

In mine, I have seen rounds bulge significantly, but that was due to the sloppy manufacturing of the RBCD ammo I was trying out. It bulged so bad it would have bulged around the rim anyway with a "fully" (which none of them are) supported barrel.

The Glock barrel is fine. The .40 is a good round, but it is high pressure compared to similar rounds in the same size package. Just stick with good factory ammo for carry like the Winchester T series or such, and only use your own reloads that you know were done properly. I'd also recommend just reloading the minimum charge necessary for target practice as this will reduce wear and tear and also minimize the possiblity of a problem. I say this because some component manufacturers recommend against reloading for this particular weapon --but I and many others have never had a problem as long as you follow safe reloading habits, and like I said, keep the pressure down by loading only target loads for this weapon (reason being the brass is less likely to fail due to stress from sizing "Glock'd" brass).

Some of what you hear are rumors, some true and accidental, and I'd bet the vast majority of KB's are the result of operator error (most likely in loading). The best "proof" is annecdotal at best, so take it with a grain of salt. I've seen the top straps of big Smith revolvers blown all the way off, seen and held 'em (fortunately not when it happened) --how many of those do you hear about?

If this pistol (and analogues) were really that big of a problem, it wouldn't be carried by half the cops in the US. They don't typically use reloads, so I bet poor reloading practices are the source. Too many full power .40 loads stress the same brass more than any other round I have reloaded --so only reload light target loads, and again, inspect your brass.
 
Now the real fun is the G29. Careful handloading still applies, but this thing is SMOKING. Full power handloads do no visible working of the brass in new handloads. 155gr. XTP @ 1400+fps. Oh yeah!

And, from my experience, the G29 is more accurate. In fact, out of my Glocks, it is second to the G17L!

Oh yeah, forget the LW barrels. That Korean junk isn't half the quality that hammer forged polygonal rifled Glock barrel is. Or as reliable.
 
"The Glock KB problem is mostly an internet myth."

Until you see two KB's in a season using factory ammo on the same range. Both 40's. Both split the barrel and blew the mag out of the gun. Glock warrantied both. Both second gen guns.

I wouldn't randomly replace parts on one.
 
As long as you get a 3gen or newer, you should be fine as long as you don't fire over-pressure loads (ie, hot handloads) or get sloppy about brass inspection if you reload. The small unsupported part of the chamber significantly helps feeding, but it used to be too deep --I understand they changed this angle with the 3gen.

In mine, I have seen rounds bulge significantly, but that was due to the sloppy manufacturing of the RBCD ammo I was trying out. It bulged so bad it would have bulged around the rim anyway with a "fully" (which none of them are) supported barrel.

The Glock barrel is fine. The .40 is a good round, but it is high pressure compared to similar rounds in the same size package. Just stick with good factory ammo for carry like the Winchester T series or such, and only use your own reloads that you know were done properly. I'd also recommend just reloading the minimum charge necessary for target practice as this will reduce wear and tear and also minimize the possiblity of a problem. I say this because some component manufacturers recommend against reloading for this particular weapon --but I and many others have never had a problem as long as you follow safe reloading habits, and like I said, keep the pressure down by loading only target loads for this weapon (reason being the brass is less likely to fail due to stress from sizing "Glock'd" brass).

Some of what you hear are rumors, some true and accidental, and I'd bet the vast majority of KB's are the result of operator error (most likely in loading). The best "proof" is annecdotal at best, so take it with a grain of salt. I've seen the top straps of big Smith revolvers blown all the way off, seen and held 'em (fortunately not when it happened) --how many of those do you hear about?

If this pistol (and analogues) were really that big of a problem, it wouldn't be carried by half the cops in the US. They don't typically use reloads, so I bet poor reloading practices are the source. Too many full power .40 loads stress the same brass more than any other round I have reloaded --so only reload light target loads, and again, inspect your brass.
^^ I agree ^^ Said beautifully.
 
It almost sounds like reloading 40S&W in general is touchier than the other calibers. Is this correct? Would it be safer to try 9mm or 45 ACP reloads?
 
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IMO:

-use jacketed ammo
-no bubba reloads
-replace your springs every once in a while, the trigger spring every 1000 rounds. Springs are cheap.
-get a Lone Wolf captured SS guide rod. Use the stock recoil spring only.

The .40 Glocks are excellent weapons.
 
Unless you are using overpressure reloads, lead bullets or reuse the same brass 3+ times you have nothing to worry about.

I use my brass 6+...maybe 10+ times. As long as it isn't cracking or buldging. (note this is with 9mm and .45 brass in non-Glocks).
I also like lead bullets...but I can easily swtich to plated as they really are not much more expenssive than pre-cast lead
 
I believe the KB's with the 40's have more to do with how much of the case is unsupported at the bottom rear of the chamber. This makes staying in the correct pressure range vitally important.

Glock guys correct if I am wrong
 
:D
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The Glock KB problem is mostly an internet myth. It's certainly not anything to be replacing parts over.

My main concerns with a Glock 27 would be 1.) .40 Glocks are not as durable or as reliable as their 9mm counterparts, and 2.) .40 subcompacts of any make are pretty difficult to shoot well. YMMV.

-C

It's most certainly NOT an Internet myth. Glock .40's are particularly problem-prone, kabooms included. And it's almost invariably the .40's that go boom. You never hear of the 9mm's or the .45's having problems.
 
My departmrnt issues glock 22s,23s,and 27s (depending on your job title). We have well over a hundred glocks in use from gen2 to recently gen4 and most are gen2. We have never had a glock go kaboom and the only gun we ever had go kaboom was a h&k sub gun that a 40s&w round found its way into the magizine (gun was a 45acp). I also reload for the 40S&W and have not had any issues. Keep the gun clean and the reloads in spec
 
I'd like a glock, but I really like 40 S&W, and I've heard that the glocks in that caliber tend to be a little more prone to going kaboom than the other caliber glocks.

glocks kaboom from uncle bubba reloading in his basement while watching hee haw. use factory fresh quality ammo and you'll be fine.

incidentally, my EMP40 has FAR less chamber support than my glock 23 40cal.
 
so basicly, the "so called kaboom" is with cases rupturing from an area of the brass that is unsupported. correct? obviously, that will never happen with new rounds, as the brass is strong enough to withstand the pressure. but reloads weaken the brass with each sucsessive loading. thus, the "kaboom problem". i do not own one, i am just asking for clarification for the original post, and those who may want one in the future. when i buy a glock, it will be in 10mm. i would be curious if that has the same trouble.
 
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