glock 35 trigger upgrade

[z7]

i have a gen 4 glock 35 I am using for local competitions and enjoy shooting, I read the other day about a lone wolf 3.5lb connector being an easy and cheap way to improve the trigger. I am not overly interested in a new trigger like a zev or anything, I want to keep a similar feel to my carry Guns, but I would mind a better glock trigger

LWD has a 3.5lb connector and 6lb trigger spring package for less than $20, what difference does it make? What is the impact of just a connector and what is the impact of a he 6lb spring?

I understand how some triggers work, but. Ever really looked into how the various components of glock triggers work, so educate me please

 

[Varminterror]

Counterintuitively, the Glock trigger spring actually pulls on the trigger. Its purpose is to maintain pressure between the trigger bar and striker, not to reset the trigger as in most other models. As such, a 6lb trigger spring actually reduces the trigger pull. This increases the pressure between the Striker sear and trigger bar.

The connector is the biggest influencer in pull weight. The angle of the rear lip of the connector dictates how the trigger bar travels.

The connector will decrease the pull and feel slightly different in travel. The spring is a reliability/safety enhancement and also reduces pull.

 

[z7]

Thanks for the response, are you saying that the 6lb spring with the 3.5 connector will increase safety and reliability vs just the 3.5 connector?

I want no part of a mod that makes the gun either less reliable (why buy a Glock at that point) or potentially less safe

 

[JTQ]

When the SIG P320 had its' drop safe issues a few months back, some of "smart" guys on some forums started doing "experiments" to see if they could get other striker guns to fire and how drop safe they were.

Glock's were consistently good with stock Glock parts. However, some of the aftermarket devices seemed to negate or bypass some of the inherent safety features of the Glock. Another thing they found was even though the Glock striker is only partially tensioned (often noted as a safety feature), if the firing pin safety (and whatever other safeties are in the way) gets bypassed, the striker has enough energy, even as partially tensioned, to ignite nearly all primers.

Some of these "smart" guys have recommended staying with Glock parts to ensure all safety features remain functional. I'm not one of those smart guys, but doesn't the G34/G35 (non-Blue Label versions) already come with a lighter trigger than the standard Glock line-up?

 

[z7]

It is a blue label G35. The lone wolf connector and spring are less than $13 shipped, I am going to order one tomorrow. I will use it in some competition and see how it does

 

[L-2]

My thoughts, with some assumptions.

-a good trigger pull gauge may help. I use a Lyman digital model:
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...s/electronic-trigger-pull-gauge-prod7956.aspx
There are others on the market and there are other suppliers.

-I've not tried every connector on the market. A reduced pull connector will likely result in a 0.5 pound reduction in trigger pull. Your G35Gen4 probably has a "DOT" connector and the trigger pull will average 5.5 pounds in a Gen4. A connector alone will then drop it to ~5.0 pounds in a Gen4. The 3.5 pound "rating" is likely more marketing than the resulting actual trigger pull, but the gauge can determine that better than any words from me or the seller of the connector. Long ago, Glock's "minus" connector was advertised as a 3.5. Later, Glock revised its advertising or claim to be a 4.5 connector as this is more accurate (prior to the Gen4 models).

-A stronger trigger spring might drop it another 4 to 8 ounces, or closer to 4.5 pounds in a Gen4. There could be some failures to fully reset the trigger with the stronger trigger spring, maybe not. Or the trigger may intermittently fail the trigger safety test, or be fine. Another thought is how frequently might an aftermarket spring need to be replaced? Some testing to a failure point may not need to be done as any spring can fail unexpectedly. Perhaps the trigger pull gauge can come in handy to see if the trigger pull may get slightly higher if the trigger spring is weakening (the aftermarket spring).

-Whatever you do, don't forget to lubricate/oil the connector to trigger-bar interface as it often gets forgotten in the do-it-yourself Youtube vids.

 

[JohnKSa]

...i have a gen 4 glock 35...

At least some of the G35 pistols come with the minus (3.5lb) connectors already. You'll want to check the connector to verify what you have before you buy something that may already be installed.

In the picture below, the part that is circled is the "ear" of the connector. It is shown from the right side of the gun, but you need to look at the left side of that ear to see if there is a minus sign or dash stamped into it.



Below is a picture of several connectors from the left side so you can see where the minus/dash would be stamped.

Its purpose is to maintain pressure between the trigger bar and striker, not to reset the trigger as in most other models.

It is correct that it pulls backwards (in the same direction as the trigger finger) against the trigger, but it also does perform the reset function of the trigger, albeit in a roundabout way.

The trigger spring pulls backwards and upwards on the trigger bar. The backwards pull lightens the trigger pull for the shooter, and the upwards pull on the trigger bar moves it upwards so that the striker lug will catch the rear of the trigger bar and reset the trigger. Without the trigger spring, the trigger will not reset when the slide is cycled.

Well, sorta. It turns out that if the trigger is held to the rear by the shooter while the slide is cycled, that force against the trigger will also cause it to reset due to the design of the trigger system. But, in general, without a trigger spring, the shooter will experience trigger reset issues.

There could be some failures to fully reset the trigger with the stronger trigger spring, maybe not. Or the trigger may intermittently fail the trigger safety test, or be fine.

Altering the strength of the trigger spring by making it stronger is unlikely to cause trigger reset issues--it should make trigger reset more positive.

It is also unlikely to cause issues with the trigger safety (the small piece of plastic that pivots in the trigger) until the trigger spring gets very heavy. The striker spring is a good deal stronger than the trigger spring and it would take a very strong trigger spring indeed to over power the striker spring to the point of causing issues with the trigger safety. After installing the heavier trigger spring, you can check to see if everything is still functional.

The rear of the trigger safety is a sort of flat spot that sticks out behind the trigger.

If the rear of the trigger safety is touching the frame with the trigger reset (in the forward position) then the trigger spring is too strong and should be replaced with a much lighter spring. There should be an obvious gap between the rear of the trigger safety and the frame.

 

[z7]

thanks for the detailed post with pictures. I checked my gun and it has the stock connector (no minus sign). for the price, its worth a try and if anything doesnt seem right I can easily go back to the factory parts. for the cost of a 12pk of beer I see no harm in trying as long as I pay attention to what the gun is telling me and check function at home and then on the range.

 

[9mmepiphany]

If you haven't ordered yet, consider the connector from Taran Tactical. I've found it to be the best value with a huge improvement in trigger feel

 

[L-2]

thanks for the detailed post with pictures. I checked my gun and it has the stock connector (no minus sign). for the price, its worth a try and if anything doesnt seem right I can easily go back to the factory parts. for the cost of a 12pk of beer I see no harm in trying as long as I pay attention to what the gun is telling me and check function at home and then on the range.

If it's a G35Gen4, it may or should have a "Dot" connector as shown on the right of the attached photo. The dot may appear fairly faint. The "Dot" connector is the standard connector in a Gen4 and will typically be standard in a 5.5 pound Blue Label Gen4.