Glock and reloads

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I saw in my Lee reloading chart that came with my .40 S&W dies that it said that reloads were not to be used in Glocks and pistols like Glocks. Is this true? If so, why? Also, what does it mean by "pistols like Glocks"? Thanks.
 
Some early Glock in S&W .40 had chambers that did not fully support the case head, and there were reports of lots of Kabooms in this caliber. You might want to check the Glock Talk forum. I have put hundreds of reloads through my G27. Just do not use lead bullets (use jacketed) unless you get one of the aftermarket barrels with conventional rifling. Polygonal rifling in Golcks apparenlty can build up and cause presseur problems. Still, several posters on various forums indicate they shoot lead but clean their Glock barrels frequently. Hope this helps.
 
Paperpuncher is 100% correct. Most Glock shooters replace their stock barrel with a drop in after market barrel with conventional rifling for lead bullet shooting. Two barrel sources I have used are Brownell's and MidwayUSA. There are probably many others, but these two suppliers are great people to work with. JMHO! :)
 
I have shot hard-cast lead bullets out of a Glock 23 for about 12 - 13 years now.

As noted, early .40 Glocks had very unsupported chambers, due to the feed ramp cut & very loose chamber specs.
I.E: Glock Perfection.

But worse then that, they were so designed that they could fire out of battery by as much as 3/32" inch or more.
I.E: More Glock Perfection.

Lead, powder fouling, and bullet lube could build up in the front of the chamber and hold the slide open progressively further, which allowed even more unsupported case to stick out of the chamber. Which allowed them to fire almost out of battery.
I.E: Even more Glock Perfection.

If you use very hard cast bullets (I use straight Linotype), use sensible loads, and clean your gun every month or so whether it needs it or not, I am not convinced there is any problem.

rc
 
My .40 is a Beretta. I have Glocks in .45ACP and .45GAP but don't have dies for them yet. From what I understand, reloads in the Beretta are fine. Reloads in the Glocks are fine provided they are newer Glocks and the reloaded ammo doesn't use lead bullets. I only plan on using FMJ in my reloads. Is this assessment accurate?
 
My .40 is a Beretta. I have Glocks in .45ACP and .45GAP but don't have dies for them yet. From what I understand, reloads in the Beretta are fine. Reloads in the Glocks are fine provided they are newer Glocks and the reloaded ammo doesn't use lead bullets. I only plan on using FMJ in my reloads. Is this assessment accurate?
 
Accurate enough.

If all you will ever use is FMJ bullets, the Glock vis lead bullet thing is a non-issue.

All manufactures tell you not to use reloads.
It's a lawyer thing.

rc
 
Glock hasn't fixed anything regarding their .40 S&W barrels over the years, they still have minimal case support. The same is true on thier .45 acp models.

You read about .40 KB's about as often as you heard about Firestone tire failures in Ford SUV's. Shooting reloads out of a Glock is a greater risk than factory as the previously fired cases are more likely to be weakened. The good thing is that out of all the KB's I've read about and the pictures I've seen, no one has ever been seriously hurt by them. The gun gets ruined and Glock does not warranty their pistol with any reloaded ammo so the shooter is out a couple hundred for a new gun.

Lead bullets in a polygonal barrel is a bad combination under any circumstance as the barrel leads even with hard cast. The leading is harder to detect with just a visual inspection but its there. Get a conventional rifled barrel to shoot lead bullets.

Many people shoot reloaded ammo in their .40 Glocks and most will not have a KB but understand the risks and don't whine about a ruined pistol if it happens to you. Minimize your risk by using good reloading practices like inspecting all cases for bulges or potential weakness and discarding those that are questionable. Use conservative load data and set OAL to book spec.

Here's a link to perhaps a better explanation of the situation http://www.thegunzone.com/glock/glock-kb-faq.html
 
The leading is harder to detect with just a visual inspection but its there.
For all practical purposes, if you can't see it, it isn't there.

Leading in that amount would only act as a lubricant, and lower pressure slightly, if it did anything at all.

Severe leading from shooting soft cast bullets in Poly rifling will be quite evident to the eye.
That is what will get you in trouble with a stock Glock barrel.

rc
 
I shoot reloads in my Glock 20 (10mm) and haven't had any signs of case bulging or anything like that. The .40s seem to have 'smilies' more often that the other calibers.
 
One problem I have noticed with 40SW reloads is if the brass was previously fired in a Glock the forward edge of the "smiley" is very close to the place where the web of the case tapers into the body of the case. The crease that happens at the forward edge of the "smiley" from the edge of the chamber is a "stress riser" in the brass.

Even when the brass is resized this crease is a weak point. If the reloaded cartridge happens to align in the chamber so this over stressed area is again exposed to the edge of the chamber failure is more likely. This becomes even worse if the chamber is dirty and the gun fires slightly out of battery.
 
For all practical purposes, if you can't see it, it isn't there.

Look down the bore with a light sjource at the other end and it will look nice and smooth and shiny.

Look at the end of barrel from an oblique angle so that you are looking at the inside of the barrel rather than down the bore. If its been a couple days since you shot lead you'll see it as the barrel will be gray or have gray streaks of lead. Push a tight patch form a lead wipe cloth through the bore on a jag and you'll see streaks of lead it picks up. Shooting jacketed ammo afterward does not remove the leading, it just irons it out smoother.

Anything in the bore, lead or lubricant, will increase pressure.
 
Glock hasn't fixed anything regarding their .40 S&W barrels over the years, they still have minimal case support.

I'm not sure about this. I have a new Glock 23. I also purchased a Lone Wolf barrel for it. Placing the two barrels side by side with a loaded round in the chamber I can see no difference at the 6 o'clock position. Doesn't mean there isn't any difference, I just can't see any. Fired brass from the two barrels show no difference as well. No bulge a 6 o'clock from either barrel.

If you are uncomfortable loading for the Glock, purchase a Lone Wolf barrel for it. They are about $100.
http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Products.aspx?CAT=238
 
I've run cast reloads through Glocks in 9mm, 40 and 45, no problems. Stay inside published data limitations, keep your barrel clean, you'll be fine. "Conventional wisdom" might disagree, but if you follow procedure you're fine.
 
I am loading some 40 loads for my G23 right now, I only use new brass and keep the the pressures down, if I plan on doing any hot loads then I would get the much praised Lone Wolf barrel, also I would say don't use brass thats been shot several times with a Glock barrel, thats asking for a case rupture, with an aftermarket barrel I would go ahead as long as all the shots before were normal pressure loads. The 40 is a high pressure cartridge and you should traet it with respect, its a far cry different from loading a .45acp.
 
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