Glock Problems (advice please)

[SniperStraz]

Hello friends and neighbors,
I’m having a very serious issue with my Glock 19. I was at the range today and I was practicing malfunction drills when it just stopped working. I would rack the slide, a round was chambered and the trigger would set in its usual place but when I pulled the trigger… “click”… The magazine fed perfectly (I tried many mags), and there was no strike on the primers at all (tried multiple rounds as well).
This is my usual EDC piece and I’m absolutely appalled that the gun that I’ve trusted for so many years has failed me. It’s a 2nd generation G19 but it has been cared for very well. I don’t practice with +P very much so I can’t imagine that anything would be worn out and the internals look normal.
Is this a common problem? I’ve been a Glock fan for a long time and I’ve never seen this kind of malfunction.
Should I send it to the factory? Is there a part that I could replace myself?
I’m not sure I could ever carry this gun confidently again but any help on the subject would be very much appreciated.
All the best.
-SniperStraz

 

[Drail]

Return it to Glock. They will of course say that you were limpwristing it or there must be an ammo problem. Seriously, something has broken. Contact Glock.

 

[AKElroy]

Did you pop the firing pin out & check it? If it has been carried alot & never detail stripped, you could have some pretty tightly packed gunk in the FP channel. I was getting light strikes with my G27, cleaned out the goop & it is now 100%

 

[Maj Dad]

Do It Yourself

You can replace every part on a Glock (sights notwithstanding a special tool) yourself. There are excellent tutorials on Youtube (search for Glock disassembly or the like) and parts charts all over the net. It sounds like your problem is in the striker assembly - learn how to take it down (really, really simple) and check it out. I'd try to tell you here, but the videos I looked at made it much easier for me and my limited visual brain.

 

[zignal_zero]

intresting. i wish i could see it. w/o seeing it, it's hard to diagnose. the TOTAL lack of marking on the primer (if i understand you correctly) coupled with the trigger behaving normally leads me to question the firing pin. i've seen the tip break off them on other firearms and cause the same syptoms you're describing.

detail strip it. if you need to borrow a friend's and detail strip them both to compare each part.

 

[valor1]

you must have broken the firing pin with a lot of dryfirings. field strip the gun and check the firing pin. there are lots of videos on how it can be done (taking off the firing pin that is). good luck

 

[distra]

Yep, firing pin is either gunked up or broken. My guess is it's broken. Detail the strip the slide and take the firing pin out. Inspect and replace if needed or clean and try again.

 

[SniperStraz]

Well the firing pin isn’t broken. The gun will be engaged into full battery if I rack the slide very slowly. It’s the strangest thing. As far as the trigger goes , when I encounter this problem the trigger appears to be reset and is in its usual position, but when I pull the trigger there is little resistance. The best way I can demonstrate to you all what the trigger is doing is this: If you remove the slide of any Glock, leave everything the way it is but manually pull the trigger into its “cocked” position. If you pull the trigger now, that is the response that I get with the slide on my gun.
As far as replacing the parts goes, which parts should I replace? Should I revamp the entire gun? How much would that run me as opposed to taking in to a gunsmith?
Thank you all for your help.

 

[Runningman]

It is hard to diagnose without having it in my hand. Not sure if how comfortable you are at removing the firing pin guts. But if so I would take good look for a broken firing pin spring, or a chewed up firing pin channel liner, or debris in this area to start with.

 

[gb6491]

Well the firing pin isn’t broken. The gun will be engaged into full battery if I rack the slide very slowly. It’s the strangest thing. As far as the trigger goes , when I encounter this problem the trigger appears to be reset and is in its usual position, but when I pull the trigger there is little resistance. The best way I can demonstrate to you all what the trigger is doing is this: If you remove the slide of any Glock, leave everything the way it is but manually pull the trigger into its “cocked” position. If you pull the trigger now, that is the response that I get with the slide on my gun....

If the firing pin (striker) is indeed not damaged and from your description of the trigger I would suspect that the trigger bar is not engaging the striker correctly or is losing contact with it as the slide returns to battery.

Things to check/do (in addition to what Runningman suggests):
Clean and inspect for damage/wear the trigger mechanism housing, connector, and trigger spring.
Clean and inspect for damage/wear the trigger, pin that holds it in place, trigger bar, and frame where it contacts the trigger bar.

There is also the possibility that your firing pin safety is not working properly. Check it, the spring and channel in the slide for cleanliness, damage, or wear. Also check the firing pin for damage or wear in the area where it would engage the safety. I imagine if the plunger (safety) is not moving freely, that it could possibly cause the trigger bar to disengage from the striker as the slide returns to battery.

New parts wise; the firing pin would cost the most (under $40), trigger and trigger bar next (under $15), then the trigger mechanism housing (under $10).
The smaller parts would be under $5 each.
Regards,
Greg

 

[cocojo]

See if the trigger return spring is broken. To check the firing pin take the slide off , barrel out and recoil spring. Then press in the firing pin safety in and move the slide back and forth you chould hear the fring pin moving inside. If you don't it's either dirty or issues. Trigger return spring is easy remove slide and look down into the frame under the crusiform. I betting it's the trigger return spring.

 

[okespe04]

Find a local glock armorer and have it checked out. That or go through all the steps to learn every function of your glock. Anybody who edcs should either have their ecd inspected by a professional every year or two or take the time to completely understand the inner workings or your firearm on your own. Remember anything with moving parts and fail at any moment for a number of different reasons.

 

[SniperStraz]

Thank you for your help. I will keep you all updated.
Any other input would be great.

 

[SniperStraz]

Well I took the Glock down completely today and I don't see anything wrong with any of the parts. Springs are in good condition and all. I'm not sure an armorer will be able to spot any problems.
So I suppose I need to replace all of the internals.
Does anyone know where the cheapest place for replacement parts would be? Are there any kits for sale out there?
Can anyone pinpoint the minimum parts that I would need to replace?
Thanks

 

[Mags]

not sure an armorer will be able to spot any problems.
So I suppose I need to replace all of the internals.

Sounds to me like you are making excuses to rebuild your gun. TAKE IT TO A GLOCK ARMORER. Not a gunsmith but a certified Glock Armorer.

 

[Pistol Whip]

Your firing pin...

...does it look exactly like one of these in the attachment?

With the slide fully assembled:
1. push the firing pin safety into the slide
2. move the firing pin forward with your finger so it clears the breach-face

if you can see the firing pin sticking out where the primer would be then it's probably a trigger mechanism issue of some sort.

if you can't see the tip of the pin sticking out then it's an issue with the firing pin assembly. It's either become fouled and you nee to clean it (Q-tips with solvent do well here) or some part of the assembly has become damaged. as others have suggested it may be the channel liner. what does your channel liner look like?

 

[Evenflo76]

Detail strip it. IF something is actually broken, Glock will just mail you the part for free.

Good Luck

 

[SniperStraz]

Like I said, I detail stripped it and everything looks fine. I wish something were broken, then I'd know what to fix.
Thanks for all your help guys.
Looks like I need to find a good armorer.

 

[ROGER4314]

In Houston, we have a secret weapon for Glock problems: TR Graham. Search his name and you can find how to contact him. Graham makes the videos "Making Glocks Rock" and over the years he has checked out everything I have owned with the name "Glock" on it. He does that for free at all of our Gun Shows. He found a serious problem in a Glock 21 and fixed it for about $35. The guy is really good and the way he handles a Glock while working on it is a real treat to see!

Graham is a fine gentleman. Perhaps he can find an answer for you. I recommend him 100%

Flash

 

[greyeyezz]

You don't need to buy anything or pay anyone a cent except shipping to Glock for repair.

 

[MAURICE]

I'll echo the sentiments others have expressed here. Take it to an armorer or send it to Glock. There is probably a Glock armorer in your town or close by. My local gun shop doesn't do much smithing at all, but IIRC there is a Glock armorer there. It will take an armorer only a few minutes to fix just about any problem you have with your Glock and it shouldn't cost much. Easy to work on and parts are cheap.

 

[Quack]

could be a few things.
1. Firing pin block plunger.
2. firing pin
3. trigger bar isn't engaging the firing pin

from what you are describing, i'd look at the trigger bar is not engaging the striker.

you can get an armorer's manual on www.biggerhammer.net/manuals

 

[SniperStraz]

Well it turns out that greyeyezz was right! I called Glock and they asked me to send it in. They replaced almost everything for free. I pretty much have a brand new Glock. I can't say how impressed I am with them. I never did find out exactly what the problem was but I can tell you that in this economy a company that stands behind their product at no charge is a company that I will stick with.
Lesson learned: Have your carry gun checked every couple of years for wear.

 

[greyeyezz]

Well it turns out that greyeyezz was right!

I'm always right.

 

[miket]

If you're ever concerned about a firing pin, this works for ANY semi-auto. Clear the gun and rack the slide to put it into "dry fire" status. Point the muzzle upward and drop a pencil down the barrel eraser end first. Pull the trigger. The pencil should jump energetically to include possibly shooting up and out of the barrel altogether. My Kimber will launch the pencil skyward while my G19 just makes it jump. Either way, you KNOW that firing pin is making it through the hole in the breech face and to where the primer would be on a live round. You can also lightly place a finger over the pencil and feel it jump as well.