Glock 20 trigger...need a shorter pull/reset

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Laggy

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So I got a Glock 20 Gen 4 for backcountry defense. My hands are small/fingers are pretty short. I can reasonably fire but I’m focusing on trigger squeeze AND finger placement on the shoe. I’d like the trigger pull a touch. I’m running no backstrap, and I don’t want to have any frame work done if possible.

I’ve read on the usual suspects (ZEV, Agency Arms, Glockstore Pyramid, Overwatch, Apex, Velocity). I am merely interested in shorter pull/reset. I’m not trying to get lighter pull necessarily.

Any ideas or am I SOL?
 
Use the heat method and reduce the hump on the back strap. On gen 4/5s I can do this without loosing the factory texture. I can't shoot full size glocks without doing this. Notice the flat back on the G17. The G19 was first attempt at doing a double undercut, and it looks like it lol.

20200105_174246.jpg

Edit: just re-read, and saw you didn't want to do frame work. I've played with glock triggers, I currently have 5 glocks. My favorite trigger so far is the 25 cent trigger job with a ghost connector. I like having a wall, some remove the wall.

I put in a Overwatch Percision wide trigger and it threw me way off target. Nothing wrong with the trigger, just need to get used to it.

With all that said, I just got a G40 MOS, and am trying to find the right trigger for hunting purposes as this will be a "precision" Glock. I will be doing grip reduction once I research how it will effect a FDE frame.
 
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I am merely interested in shorter pull/reset

While many companies make good trigger making the pull lighter.. Its really not advisable to mess with the LOP as the cruciform has to maintain specific coverage.

An adjustable trigger shoe is your best option..
 
I’ll give you a couple different options:

1. I have heard several well know gun folks say that Dave Bowie does an excellent job modifying Glocks, and can reduce the grip to approximately a G17 size.

http://www.bowietacticalconcepts.com/

2. Order a Timberwolf frame from Lone Wolf. It is also close to the G17 size frame from what I was told by a factory rep.

https://www.lonewolfdist.com/TimberwolfConfig.aspx


The frame modification from Bowie would be an issue if you had warranty issues. The Timberwolf would not since you would keep your original frame in stock condition.
 
While many companies make good trigger making the pull lighter.. Its really not advisable to mess with the LOP as the cruciform has to maintain specific coverage.

An adjustable trigger shoe is your best option..

I understand about cruciform coverage. So you’re saying not to mess with LOP. But an adjustable shoe (eg. Lone Wolf) effectively messes with LOP.

All this is essentially moot if I can learn to work the gun and the trigger reset better...
 
I understand about cruciform coverage. So you’re saying not to mess with LOP. But an adjustable shoe (eg. Lone Wolf) effectively messes with LOP.

All this is essentially moot if I can learn to work the gun and the trigger reset better...

What I am saying is that an adjustable trigger shoe (trigger itself) does not mess with the internal matting surfaces. Some companies reduce LOP by shortening trigger bars, connectors, springs,engagement. etc. So you need to be careful as you could end up with a gun that is potentially unsafe.

Apex makes a trigger shoe that is supposed to offer less take up, reset. etc. (I am sure many others too) Even then it will be fractions of an inch I've only tried them on an M&P though.So I have no experience with one in a Glock.

I run Vanek triggers in my Glocks. (However, I am NOT looking to reduce LOP.)

Nothing you can do about your hand size.. Maybe reevaluate your gun of choice.
 
What I am saying is that an adjustable trigger shoe (trigger itself) does not mess with the internal matting surfaces. Some companies reduce LOP by shortening trigger bars, connectors, springs,engagement. etc. So you need to be careful as you could end up with a gun that is potentially unsafe.

Apex makes a trigger shoe that is supposed to offer less take up, reset. etc. (I am sure many others too) Even then it will be fractions of an inch I've only tried them on an M&P though.So I have no experience with one in a Glock.

I run Vanek triggers in my Glocks. (However, I am NOT looking to reduce LOP.)

Nothing you can do about your hand size.. Maybe reevaluate your gun of choice.

New platform ain’t happening. 10mm for bear defense. And I want more than 8 rounds for when I miss, I don’t have to try to beat the bear with the gun. Lone Wolf is really close to me (no walk-in). I was on the phone for awhile.

What I’m gonna do is stop being a noob and releasing the trigger beyond reset. Practice with the gifts Glock have me.

I can also get some frame work done, there’s a spectacular gunsmith up here that I know can do some minor work, with room for more if I need it.

P.S. So you don’t mod a concealed carry because of legal issues if/when you shoot someone?!?!? That sounds ridiculous. “Sir, had you not modded the LOP on your gun, that 10mm would have acted more like a 22, and the attacker would still be alive”. Smh.
 
An aftermarket trigger that has adjustable pre-travel will help. There are a few brands out there that have adjustments for both pre-travel and over-travel. I am using a Hyve Technologies Monarch trigger in my Glock G44 and my Polymer 80 Compact Long slide (19 grip/17slide) and like them for the money. I adjusted both triggers for a shorter pre-travel without being unsafe.The downside to the Hyve Monarch triggers is that you have to remove them from teh frame to adjust the pre and over travel.
 
An aftermarket trigger that has adjustable pre-travel will help. There are a few brands out there that have adjustments for both pre-travel and over-travel. I am using a Hyve Technologies Monarch trigger in my Glock G44 and my Polymer 80 Compact Long slide (19 grip/17slide) and like them for the money. I adjusted both triggers for a shorter pre-travel without being unsafe.The downside to the Hyve Monarch triggers is that you have to remove them from teh frame to adjust the pre and over travel.

Good info
 
Might want to change platforms. SIG 220 10mm with E2 grips and a short trigger might be just what the doctor ordered.

Adds a ton of weight and cuts the ammo in half (I believe the 10mm 220 went all steel), might not be the best option if Backcountry involves a ton of walking. I do love a 220 though :D

XD would LOP and keep relative weight and capacity.

But there have been plenty of great recommendations here and I'm sure you'll find the right option.

What I’m gonna do is stop being a noob and releasing the trigger beyond reset. Practice with the gifts Glock have me.

Certainly can help quite a bit. I always thought the Glock 21 was too big for me to shoot comfortably until I spent time learning it, and it turned into one of my favorite .45s. Now, I don't have small hands, so it's not quite the same, but it is possible that you'll find the "right" grip and trigger press with no mods and lots of practice, dry fire can really help here.
 
View attachment 947757 View attachment 947756 I second this: "Order a Timberwolf frame from Lone Wolf." I own several Timberwolf large and small frames. I liked the small frame I bought, then picked up a large frame, and then a few more. I don't have a single factory Glock frame now. (They're all either a 80% of various brands or a Timberwolf.)

I bought a Lone Wolf aluminum trigger with the frame pictured. The trigger isn't adjusted to it's full potential/limits, but I showed a pic of it at full rear travel and a pic of it at full reset. I like the Lone Wolf trigger and recommend it: https://www.lonewolfdist.com/lower-receiver-internal-parts/lwd-uat

I'd also recommend the Suarez face shooter trigger for less length of pull: https://suarezinternational.com/suarez-face-shooter-trigger-black/ I've installed one on a friend's Glock clone, and I remember it had a great feel and the face was close to the frame at reset.
 
Adds a ton of weight and cuts the ammo in half (I believe the 10mm 220 went all steel), might not be the best option if Backcountry involves a ton of walking. I do love a 220 though :D

XD would LOP and keep relative weight and capacity.

Correct. See the part where I miss 8 shots out of a 1911 platform 10mm, and throw the gun at the bear while screaming “Code Brown” as I crap my pants.

But there have been plenty of great recommendations here and I'm sure you'll find the right option.



Certainly can help quite a bit. I always thought the Glock 21 was too big for me to shoot comfortably until I spent time learning it, and it turned into one of my favorite .45s. Now, I don't have small hands, so it's not quite the same, but it is possible that you'll find the "right" grip and trigger press with no mods and lots of practice, dry fire can really help here.

This is promising
 
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View attachment 947757 View attachment 947756 I second this: "Order a Timberwolf frame from Lone Wolf." I own several Timberwolf large and small frames. I liked the small frame I bought, then picked up a large frame, and then a few more. I don't have a single factory Glock frame now. (They're all either a 80% of various brands or a Timberwolf.)

I bought a Lone Wolf aluminum trigger with the frame pictured. The trigger isn't adjusted to it's full potential/limits, but I showed a pic of it at full rear travel and a pic of it at full reset. I like the Lone Wolf trigger and recommend it: https://www.lonewolfdist.com/lower-receiver-internal-parts/lwd-uat

I'd also recommend the Suarez face shooter trigger for less length of pull: https://suarezinternational.com/suarez-face-shooter-trigger-black/ I've installed one on a friend's Glock clone, and I remember it had a great feel and the face was close to the frame at reset.

So when I talked to Lone Wolf, their small frame cannot carry a G20 slide. Their trigger looks nice, but black is on backorder (I don’t want flashy colors on my gun parts because I suck at shooting and don’t need anymore attention ;-)

I’m worried about the whole pre-movement of the cruciform now. So I’m scared of some triggers. I’m not worried about the modified gun potential legal issue because this is a backwoods carry. That Suarez looks like a really good price. I’ll do some research.

Thanks again to all of you for solid input.
 
So I got a Glock 20 Gen 4 for backcountry defense. My hands are small/fingers are pretty short. I can reasonably fire but I’m focusing on trigger squeeze AND finger placement on the shoe. I’d like the trigger pull a touch. I’m running no backstrap, and I don’t want to have any frame work done if possible.

I’ve read on the usual suspects (ZEV, Agency Arms, Glockstore Pyramid, Overwatch, Apex, Velocity). I am merely interested in shorter pull/reset. I’m not trying to get lighter pull necessarily.

Any ideas or am I SOL?

Do not do anything to the gun! I have small to medium hands and have no trouble with my Glock 21 and 30. My guess here is you only need some corrections in grip and technique.

A much better answer is to train around the gun. Go buy 2,000 rounds of ammo with the majority of it being on the lighter side. Next, acquire a Mantis X10 and dry fire daily. Apply metrics to the problem!

Assuming you are right handed, are you consistently shooting to 9 or 10 o’clock? Or are you all over the place?

I will do everything in my power to help you improve your shooting. I am sure others here will too. But first we need to know what is going on.

Can you post a picture of a ruler on your hand going from the tip of your trigger finger to the crease where your hand attaches to your arm?
 
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Do not do anything to the gun!

A much better answer is to train around the gun. Go buy 2,000 rounds of ammo with the majority of it being on the lighter side. Next, acquire a Mantis X10 and dry fire daily.

Assuming you are right handed, are you consistently shooting to 9 or 10 o’clock? Or are you all over the place?

So I have 150 rounds loaded I load myself. I can make another 250 Using 180gr and I have a bunch of AA#9 which is rowdy. 100 rounds I have now are using a much mellower powder. I didn’t have a lot so I gotta get some AA#5 or Ramshot Silhouette. And I think I’m gonna get some 165gr to reload. The 180’s with AA#9 even at minimum are absolute boomers.

That Mantis looks badass. I need one.

Yes, right handed. For shooting, I’m low. Low and low right a lot. I am having a hard time focusing on
1) finger pad placement on the shoe
2) “the squeeze”
3) proper grip with main hand and support hand

The finger pad placement is going to become less of a worry now that I’m gonna be more cognizant of trigger reset. I’ll be stopping letting the trigger all the way out.

I’m not necessarily looking to replace the trigger. I’m really starting to see the pros and cons for me as a shooter, and for the gun itself
 
P.S. I’ve decided on a HK VP9 for an other-than-backwoods carry. That gun fits my hand much better. But I have a feeling that what I accomplish with this G20 is going to translate into more success with the VP9.
 
“Low and low and right”

What does “low” mean here? Are you low with shots in a vertical-ish line? Or are you low with a consistent grouping?
 
“Low and low and right”

What does “low” mean here? Are you low with shots in a vertical-ish line? Or are you low with a consistent grouping?

All shots lower than bullseye. Usually 4-6 o’clock. I can get fairly close groups at around 5 o’clock I suppose.
 
All shots lower than bullseye. Usually 4-6 o’clock. I can get fairly close groups at around 5 o’clock I suppose.

I have a few questions for you then

At what distance are you shooting at?

What type of sights are you using?

What sight picture are you using?

I have found that with most of my Glock or P80/Glock clones with Glock sights (front dot), I need to use a combat hold sight picture to keep from shooting low at 7-15 yards.
 
You'll need to get the large Timberwolf frame. It's smaller in hand grip circumference than a large frame Glock, but I don't have a factory G20/G21 here to measure and compare them.

The Lone Wolf trigger is fully adjustable, so it can be an exact match in movement to the factory trigger... or you can adjust it. I believe the Suarez flat face trigger shoe is a combat oriented trigger, so I believe it's designed to be safe and I don't remember it being adjustable. I had no concerns with it and my friend that has it in his G22 is very happy with it.

You may want to check these out:
https://suarezinternational.com/news/is-your-trigger-safe/
https://overwatchprecision.com/blog/glock-safeties-the-basics/

BTW- I'm not a proponent of Suarez over any other brand, but their flat face trigger and the article above are solid and worth a look.
 
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Also, there really is no reason to change anything on your Glock. Thousands of them have been carried and utilized successfully in factory stock configuration for decades...

I like the Glock mechanism, but I don't like Gaston's frame/grip, so I don't have any factory Glocks anymore. That's my personal preference, but there's no need to change anything on a Glock.
 
The intended use of the gun is
backcountry defense
. What ever is done to the firing control group, the impact of the firing pin and the safety of the firing control group must not be compromised. Some of the discussion here may be advocating what are competition firing control groups. I am saying to be cautious before making changes. Trigger shape and polishing parts that allow the system to remain stock and safe are fine.
Make sure you understand relationships of the parts needed to insure safe operation of your glock prior to doing any alterations to the system.
It is possible that the glock system is not the best one for you due to your anatomy.
 
I have been happy with the adjustable Hyve Technologies Monarch triggers and did adjust for both pre and over travel but made sure that they are still safe. I did leave a little creep in the pre-travel adjustments and did not make much adjustments in over-travel to keep them safe. I am not suggesting or pushing the Hyve triggers, you can make your own decision on what brand/type of trigger to buy. I am only giving my experiences with what I have.

The intended use of the gun is . What ever is done to the firing control group, the impact of the firing pin and the safety of the firing control group must not be compromised. Some of the discussion here may be advocating what are competition firing control groups. I am saying to be cautious before making changes. Trigger shape and polishing parts that allow the system to remain stock and safe are fine.
Make sure you understand relationships of the parts needed to insure safe operation of your glock prior to doing any alterations to the system.
It is possible that the glock system is not the best one for you due to your anatomy.

I couldn't agree more. Understand how everything works together. I have the Hyve trigger in my range guns but left the two EDC guns with stock triggers or just changed out the round trigger shoe for a flat face shoe.
 
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