Good entry 1911 carry

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shadow9

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Been considering (alongside P239/instead of) a good carry 1911. The EMP's look decent, but if I'm going 1911, I might as well go .45.

That said, part of owning (and pampering/adopting) a 1911, is it's transition to becoming a unique pistol, representative of it's owner.

I would LOVE to "build my own", from kit or what have you, but upon reading into it, unless I'm willing to drop serious $$ on the various specialized tools to just build one, it almost seems better to start with a solid "base", and upgrade the slide/hammer/trigger/barrel/etc etc as I own it

So, I bid thee all advice - what's the best "starter" 1911 base? I'm looking for about 3.5-4" barrel, Commander-style grip (mid-compact, not the full-small and not full-size...new to 1911's can you tell? :p), and around $500-600 range. Decent reliability, accuracy is negligible (I gotta learn to shoot 1911's, so having a match-barrel is gonna do nothing for me), and dark-colors. Single action preferred, unless DA/SA systems offer sub 8lb trigger pull in DA mode.

Being new to this - do the Sig 1911's have compatibility with other 1911 series accessories/parts? I'm willing to factor in "Fitting" said parts to that question...Are the Sig 1911's decent? I've heard mixed reports.
 
Commander-style grip (mid-compact, not the full-small and not full-size
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There are only two sizes of grip on a 1911, the Government/Commander size (they have the same size grip) and the Officer size.
Single action preferred, unless DA/SA systems offer sub 8lb trigger pull in DA mode.
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1911's are single action pistols, you may find some ParaUSA Light Double Action (LDA) models, but you should consider the 1911 a single action pistol. OK, Colt does have the Double Eagle back, I believe.

Sigs have a pretty good reputation. I would buy what you want to start with (you won't find a $500-$600 Sig, unless it is used), unless you are truly an adventurous soul, mechanically inclined, or have a bunch of cash you'll find trying to "fit" parts to a 1911 very frustrating. It has been said, the only drop-in parts on a 1911 are the springs.
 
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A Dan Wesson CCO would be a good place to start. Something a bit heavier/larger? Start with a Vbob.

Still plenty to upgrade and tune/fit even on higher end 1911's. No point in starting from a kit, nothing is perfect for anyone.

Still have to:
-sensitize the grip safety
-cut the v notch into the grip safety bar so it can be removed without pulling the main spring housing off.
-trim thumb saftey paddle, if needed.
-sights, sights, and more sights.
-Grippy VZ grips? Slick smooth Alumagrips? Fullsize Comfort Sarges grips? Stock compromise grips?
-fix the mags with Tripp kits.
-polish up the guts

If you're picky and really want to optimize the pistol, any route you take is still going to need some work. Devils in the details. And a little detail work can really make a significant difference to how a weapon feels and shoots.
 
Just a thought ... operation of a 1911 is different in many ways from the P239. Do you think it's wise to rotate two different carry weapons that are very different in their operation?
 
RIA is a quality gun( no matter what anyone says), but they do need some modifications to make them unique. i am in the process of building one from the ground up and you're right, its very expensive.
 
To clarify - looked more into the 1911 world - IF I were to go with a 1911, it would take the place of both of my current pistols, and be done instead of a P239. I figured rather than fuss around with a semi-decent 1911 and try to "finagle" a custom onto it, I'll just do a good one out of the box and custom that.

Should I go 1911, it's lookin like Kimber 1911 Compact, or the Tactical Pro. Yes, these are both $800-1200 guns, but I figure by the time I'm done with gunsmithing charges, parts charges etc.etc, plus the risk of still less reliability, I'm at the same price-point as the kimber.
People build off of Kimbers quite often anyways, and their pistols are pretty solid out of the box. Lastly, I fell in love with the look...

...now to SHOOT a P239 and a Kimber (again), and see if I'll still like the 1911 series. Last kimber I shot I didn't like too much, a few years ago, the muzzle-climb was distasteful, and I wasn't that accurate. But, if I go kimber, I'll practice.
 
RIA is a quality gun (no matter what anyone says),
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Hmmm.. my experience was about 180 degrees out from yours. After owning 25+ 1911s in the last 30 years, I will never own another RIA or Phillipine 1911 of any description.

You may do as you please.
 
Keep researching and looking and dreaming. The Tactical Pro is a nice gun, lots of features , but it is light and the lighter the 45 the more the barrel flip. All that means is practice, as you noted. Be sure to look at a Bob tailed commander length 45 ( Ed Brown, Dan Wesson, or Smith), you may find a fit that you like.You may want to pick up a quality used 1911 (STI, Kimber, Springfield) and shoot it a bunch to get used to the format and caliber and to lock in the features that you want / need in a carry gun. Don't bet your life until you trust the out come.
 
It isn't going to get much better than a Dan Wesson or S&W CCO models in the mid-priced range ($1200). It's offers the reliability of the Commander length slide/barrel and the concealability of the Officer length frame.
 
shadow9 said:
Been considering (alongside P239/instead of) a good carry 1911. The EMP's look decent, but if I'm going 1911, I might as well go .45.

That said, part of owning (and pampering/adopting) a 1911, is it's transition to becoming a unique pistol, representative of it's owner.

I would LOVE to "build my own", from kit or what have you, but upon reading into it, unless I'm willing to drop serious $$ on the various specialized tools to just build one, it almost seems better to start with a solid "base", and upgrade the slide/hammer/trigger/barrel/etc etc as I own it

So, I bid thee all advice - what's the best "starter" 1911 base? I'm looking for about 3.5-4" barrel, Commander-style grip (mid-compact, not the full-small and not full-size...new to 1911's can you tell? :p), and around $500-600 range. Decent reliability, accuracy is negligible (I gotta learn to shoot 1911's, so having a match-barrel is gonna do nothing for me), and dark-colors. Single action preferred, unless DA/SA systems offer sub 8lb trigger pull in DA mode.

Being new to this - do the Sig 1911's have compatibility with other 1911 series accessories/parts? I'm willing to factor in "Fitting" said parts to that question...Are the Sig 1911's decent? I've heard mixed reports.
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The money on tools will be the least of your worries. First, you have to know what the heck you're doing, and that will mean practice and training from someone who DOES know what they are doing (no, not buddies who have "built a 1911 before").

PLEASE don't learn on your carry gun. If this is a gun you are going to stake your life on, buy quality and consider sending it to one of the 1911 smiths who are a member of the American Pistolsmith's Guild, or to the Springfield Custom Shop, for a "reliability package". This basically means an expert spends the time to go through every detail of your gun to assure that it has the best chance of reliable function.

I'd recommend a Springfield or Colt, no shorter than Commander length, alloy frame would be good for carry, and have a reliability package done on it.

Trust me, I've been down this road before. If someone had told me to do this right off the bat....it would have saved me a whole bunch of money!
 
In the $600 range it will be a hard to find one which stands out from the pack. I personally love the CCO configuration. It has a commande length slide and a officers grip. You can still carry 7+1 with the right mags and the officer style grip really conceals well while the 4.25" barrel removes a lot of the timing issues associated with smaller 1911s.

People seem to like the Sig CCOs which start at $800. They are not my cup of tea but reports have been positive. I personally have not shot one but looked a a few.

I would also see if you can get your hands on a Colt CCO. The new ones which are being produced by Colt for Talo seem to run about $900.

Dan wesson is great but at $1200 to $1300 they are double your budget but it is a finished gun not a base gun IMHO. I do not own one of these but have shot them and own a DW CBOB which used to be my go to CCW 1911.

I personally went with a used Colt 80 series CCO. I picked it up in trade a few years ago I think I had about $550 in the base gun. I then had some custom work done on it. It now looks like this. I had a little hiccup right out of the gate but it is now 100%! Even with the custom work I am in under the cost of Dan Wesson CCO.

C&S tactical sear, hammer and disconnector.
C&S extractor
Ed Brown NM Trigger
ED Brown Ext Safety
Ed Brown Mainspring with 25 LPI Checkering
Trigger Job
Complete Dehorn
Refinish in Black Teflon

cco-8.gif

cco-1.gif
 
Lots of good advice here. To recap:

-Don't go shorter than 4.25" barrel
-If the standard grip is too long go either bobtail or CCO frame (just make sure you handle one before you buy it, they do change the feel of the gun)
 
STI Spartan. I dare say this is the best budget 1911 on the market right now.

You don't want to build your own yet. Much better to start with a working pistol and learn how to do various jobs from there. Building a 1911 is NOT like building an AR-15.

*EDIT* Sorry you don't want a full-size.
 
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STI Spartan. I dare say this is the best budget 1911 on the market right now.

You don't want to build your own yet. Much better to start with a working pistol and learn how to do various jobs from there. Building a 1911 is NOT like building an AR-15.
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Did you even bother to read the OP? He is not looking for a gun games gun. He is not looking to tote around a full sized 1911 with target sights so the Spartan really does not fit the criteria does it? :eek:

So, I bid thee all advice - what's the best "starter" 1911 base? I'm looking for about 3.5-4" barrel, Commander-style grip (mid-compact, not the full-small and not full-size...new to 1911's can you tell? :p), and around $500-600 range. Decent reliability, accuracy is negligible (I gotta learn to shoot 1911's, so having a match-barrel is gonna do nothing for me), and dark-colors. Single action preferred, unless DA/SA systems offer sub 8lb trigger pull in DA mode.
Click to expand...
 
Red Cent said:
Zerodefect, those are around twice what he wants to pay. Aren't they?
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Yeah. I ignore the price specs and just suggest what has been working well for me.

A cheap gun all fixed up, still feels kinda cheap. Allthough a Colt is a cheaper gun to start with, but due to name rec, it also goes up in value when modded well. K, SF, and R won't
 
Look at Rock Island Armory - ATI (Shooters Arms Manufacturing - American Classic series. All these are "basic" from what I've been told.

I'm looking at an ATI Titan myself
 
I have to say I'm very impressed with my recent RIA purchase. For $400 it has to be the best bargain in 1911s going.

RIA01.png
 
Don't forget Springfield. My Lightweight Champion Operator might fit your needs. Nice and carry-able and its got a rail for HD purposes. If you're looking for a "do it all" single gun, it might be the one. IMHO its a much better option than a Kimber.
 
3 inch barrels

I have noticed on many different posts folks recommending to stay away from 3 " barrels on 1911s. Is this relevant advice for 2011? Are you posters that are saying stay away speaking from first hand knowledge of recent equipment? Just curious.
 
Yes the warning holds true for any .45ACP sized 1911 platform. It isn't that they can't be made to function, it is that their window of functionality is very small and many (most) owners won't maintain it correctly and while developing a false sense of security.

I'm speaking from personal observation of short barreled 1911s belonging to co-workers and friends (the shortest 1911 I've ever owned was a 3.5" OACP); speaking to trainers working for 1911 centric LE departments and departments that allow the 1911 as an optional weapon; and in extended (several hours) discussions with high end 1911 pistolsmiths when researching the 1911 before having one built.

These warnings apply equally to the 2011. The major difference is the amount of frame flex inherent in the grip frame and the kind of use that most owners put their gun though
 
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