Got my Garand but need help with the CMP stock (yuck)
- Thread starter Frandy
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Update on the CMP stock with uneven linseed oil..
I decided to work from least aggressive to more aggressive approaches and glad I did:
First, I simply tried hand rubbing BLO in to see if it would soften the extra spots and blend with the them. Nope.
Then I tried same, except by rubbing in along the grain using 0000 steel wool. Then, I wiped off the excess to let the stock dry. Seems to have worked like a charm so far. I see and feel hardly any of that excess linseed oil that was originally on the stock.
I was unnecessarily alarmed about fixing this problem. I lack experience with any kind of wood refinishing, so I feared I would make it look much worse. After the BLO that I applied last night dries, I can decide if I want to look for those bits of unevenness that remain and 0000/BLO again or just leave as is, if good enough. Then, I can decide if I want to rub in Minwax Wipe-on Poly, which I've seen on other's rifles.
http://www.minwax.com/products/protective/wipe-on-faq.cfm
I decided to work from least aggressive to more aggressive approaches and glad I did:
First, I simply tried hand rubbing BLO in to see if it would soften the extra spots and blend with the them. Nope.
Then I tried same, except by rubbing in along the grain using 0000 steel wool. Then, I wiped off the excess to let the stock dry. Seems to have worked like a charm so far. I see and feel hardly any of that excess linseed oil that was originally on the stock.
I was unnecessarily alarmed about fixing this problem. I lack experience with any kind of wood refinishing, so I feared I would make it look much worse. After the BLO that I applied last night dries, I can decide if I want to look for those bits of unevenness that remain and 0000/BLO again or just leave as is, if good enough. Then, I can decide if I want to rub in Minwax Wipe-on Poly, which I've seen on other's rifles.
http://www.minwax.com/products/protective/wipe-on-faq.cfm
cracked butt
Member
With BLO- rub some in with your hands- rubbing warms the wood and helps it absorb, wipe off the stuff that doesn't absorb, and let it dry for a couple of days, then repeat 1/2 dozen times or until you are satisfied with the results. The first few applications won't look very good, but it should look veyr nice by the time you have 4 or 5 applications done.
A good product to finish it with is called 'Howards Feed and Wax' with is beeswax mixed with orange oil. This will seal the wood up nicely and give it a natural luster.
Formby's tung oil I don't use on guns- I've used it on some furniture in the past, and it appears to be more along the lines of a varnish than an oil finish.
TRU-Oil- Some people like this stuff, I don't. It doesn't really absorb into wood, more or less just dries ont he surface and tends to be very glossy.
A good product to finish it with is called 'Howards Feed and Wax' with is beeswax mixed with orange oil. This will seal the wood up nicely and give it a natural luster.
Formby's tung oil I don't use on guns- I've used it on some furniture in the past, and it appears to be more along the lines of a varnish than an oil finish.
TRU-Oil- Some people like this stuff, I don't. It doesn't really absorb into wood, more or less just dries ont he surface and tends to be very glossy.
M2Pilot
Member
Stock refurb
If it's really bad,you might try removing stock, cleaning with brake or carburator cleaner,then putting it in a black garbage bag & putting that in a closed car on a hot sunny day for a few hours,then wipe down. Repeat black bag treatment as needed.
If it's really bad,you might try removing stock, cleaning with brake or carburator cleaner,then putting it in a black garbage bag & putting that in a closed car on a hot sunny day for a few hours,then wipe down. Repeat black bag treatment as needed.
Yeah, I'm not convinced I want to seal the wood. Now that I've rubbed in the BLO with the steel wool to get rid of th uneven coat, I will probably do a few more coats by hand. After that...who knows. I guess I have time to decide.
Actually, it already looks beautiful. Remember, it already had BLO on it before I started. It's a beauty right now.
I need to post some photos as I must have given the wrong impression. This CMP stock looks very good. It's just that the BLO on it had dried unevenly in a few patches/areas and I needed to remove or blend that excess linseed oil. From a distance, the stock looks just fine as is. Up close, the excess and uneveness looked obvious. Right now, it's looking very, very nice.
Actually, it already looks beautiful. Remember, it already had BLO on it before I started. It's a beauty right now.
I need to post some photos as I must have given the wrong impression. This CMP stock looks very good. It's just that the BLO on it had dried unevenly in a few patches/areas and I needed to remove or blend that excess linseed oil. From a distance, the stock looks just fine as is. Up close, the excess and uneveness looked obvious. Right now, it's looking very, very nice.
Swampy
Member
Au Contraire', mon Frer'.....
The Dishwasher (just about ANY Dishwasher) is a self cleaning appliance. If it wasn't, just think how nasty it would be in short order with food scraps and grease coating it's innards....
After running a set of gunky, greasy, oil soaked wood through your Dishwasher it's insides will be just as spic & span clean as it is after doing a load of dishes.
I've used my DW on wood that was literally dripping with grease and oil....many times. On opening the door to remove the newly cleaned wood there is absolutely no evidence whatsoever that anything other than dishes have been in or out.....
Try it... you'll like it.
Best to all,
Swampy
Garands forever
Photo of the stock after applying the additional coat of BLO with the 000 steel wool
So, here is how it looks after I used the steel woo/BLO to get rid of the unevenness of the original BLO. Wish I had done a before shot. Oh well, what's important is that the unevenness and globs are gone!
The stock is not quite as red as this. It's deeper in color. My studio flash gives it an overall lighter tone.
So, here is how it looks after I used the steel woo/BLO to get rid of the unevenness of the original BLO. Wish I had done a before shot. Oh well, what's important is that the unevenness and globs are gone!
The stock is not quite as red as this. It's deeper in color. My studio flash gives it an overall lighter tone.
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MNgoldenbear
Member
Wow! Stock looks great! I'd toyed with the idea of refinishing my DCM gun, but figure I'll leave it as is. If I wanted to swap out the stock to pretty it up for a while, I'd definitely look at acquiring a stock from CMP (noted post stating that non-CMP Boyd's stocks had slightly different configuration). I assume that you WILL be taking this great old rifle out for range time, and perhaps to a highpower match or two?
Well Bear, I gotta tell you... I'm basically a handgun shooter who shoots at an indoor range for SF practice and fun target shooting - nothing serious - though of late I find myself shooting my Trailside one-handed and very sloooooowly.
As for the M1, I haven't been shooting rifles since I owned an AR-15 in the 70s and before that the M-16 and M-14 in the USAR. I really don't think I'll ever shooot competition, but the county I live in, Wake County NC, actully has a 100 yard indoor range that I'll be bringing the Garand to. I've got a box of PMC "Garand" load ammo and a crate of Greek ammo on order at CMP.
Here's a target the seller provided with the M1. 100 yards, benched, Lake City ammo.
As for the M1, I haven't been shooting rifles since I owned an AR-15 in the 70s and before that the M-16 and M-14 in the USAR. I really don't think I'll ever shooot competition, but the county I live in, Wake County NC, actully has a 100 yard indoor range that I'll be bringing the Garand to. I've got a box of PMC "Garand" load ammo and a crate of Greek ammo on order at CMP.
Here's a target the seller provided with the M1. 100 yards, benched, Lake City ammo.
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ScottsGT
Member
Here's how I finished my new Wenigs.
BLO cut 50/50 with Mineral of Spirits. Use this to wet sand the stock using 320 grip paper. Let it dry with the "mud" on the stock. this is the sanding dust generated with BLO on the stock. After it dries, wet sand again using the mix. the "Mud" will fill in the wood grain making the stock smoother. Do this 4 or five time using finer paper after two sandings with the 320. Soon you will have a glass smooth stock. Not military, but looks great. Your final wet sand should be 600 grit, and wipe it clean then apply a fine wipe down with BLO and let dry.
BLO cut 50/50 with Mineral of Spirits. Use this to wet sand the stock using 320 grip paper. Let it dry with the "mud" on the stock. this is the sanding dust generated with BLO on the stock. After it dries, wet sand again using the mix. the "Mud" will fill in the wood grain making the stock smoother. Do this 4 or five time using finer paper after two sandings with the 320. Soon you will have a glass smooth stock. Not military, but looks great. Your final wet sand should be 600 grit, and wipe it clean then apply a fine wipe down with BLO and let dry.
I love refinishing old rifle stocks!
One of ny favorite pastimes is refinishing decrepite military rifle stocks, especially the originals. Many of these old rifles were made with walnut and there is frequently beauty underneath all that crud.
Usually start out by scraping the entire stock to get most of the crud and oil off then steam out the dents. There is usually more oil and grease down deep in the wood, so I use some kind of solvent (mineral spirits, alchohol, if all else fails laquer thinner) to get the remaining oil and grease out.
Next some hand sanding with finer and finer grit sandpaper and steel wool. When you have used your finest steel wool, wet the stock and let it dry to bring up the little whiskers of wood that are left, then go over it again with your finest steel wool.
Next step is hand rubbing linseed oil until the stock glows. I've used prepared stock finishes, but guess I'm just old fashioned and like the look and smell of linseed oil.
Once knew a Sgt that liberally applied linseed oil to his stock then baked it in his wifes oven. Great looking stock, wonder if his wife is still with him? By the way.....just love the idea of putting a rifle stock the wife's diswasher.
One of ny favorite pastimes is refinishing decrepite military rifle stocks, especially the originals. Many of these old rifles were made with walnut and there is frequently beauty underneath all that crud.
Usually start out by scraping the entire stock to get most of the crud and oil off then steam out the dents. There is usually more oil and grease down deep in the wood, so I use some kind of solvent (mineral spirits, alchohol, if all else fails laquer thinner) to get the remaining oil and grease out.
Next some hand sanding with finer and finer grit sandpaper and steel wool. When you have used your finest steel wool, wet the stock and let it dry to bring up the little whiskers of wood that are left, then go over it again with your finest steel wool.
Next step is hand rubbing linseed oil until the stock glows. I've used prepared stock finishes, but guess I'm just old fashioned and like the look and smell of linseed oil.
Once knew a Sgt that liberally applied linseed oil to his stock then baked it in his wifes oven. Great looking stock, wonder if his wife is still with him? By the way.....just love the idea of putting a rifle stock the wife's diswasher.
cracked butt
Member
looks like you got a heck of a nice rifle on all accounts.
RavenVT100
Member
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- Aug 18, 2004
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I followed the Fulton Armory Garand Stock refinishing guide and had good results. It involves using oven cleaner to de-finish the stock and then staining, sanding, and refinishing the stock.
So far I have only refinished replacement stocks, never originals. I figure since it was a replacement anyway, the devaluation of the rifle is complete and you won't devalue it much further by refinishing it.
So far I have only refinished replacement stocks, never originals. I figure since it was a replacement anyway, the devaluation of the rifle is complete and you won't devalue it much further by refinishing it.
Atlas Shrug
Member
Frandy - nice rifle. I hope you get to enjoy shooting it soon. Welcome to the Garand Club!
As for the Wake County NC indoor range, it actually goes out to 100 METERS.
Kinda weird, but the designers had inconsistent input IMHO. In some ways the place is great, in others lacking. In any event, it's one of the few 100 yard/meter indoor ranges in the US that I'm aware of.
I'm down there with some regularity, perhaps I'll see you there sometimes. After that, maybe we'll get you out to Ramseur (of Fred's in Shotgun News articles) and shoot at 500 yard popups!
As for the Wake County NC indoor range, it actually goes out to 100 METERS.
Kinda weird, but the designers had inconsistent input IMHO. In some ways the place is great, in others lacking. In any event, it's one of the few 100 yard/meter indoor ranges in the US that I'm aware of.
I'm down there with some regularity, perhaps I'll see you there sometimes. After that, maybe we'll get you out to Ramseur (of Fred's in Shotgun News articles) and shoot at 500 yard popups!
Last year I picked up a 1903 Springfield and a 1917 Eddystone from a member of our gun club. He purchased these from CMP some years back. He still had them in the original box they came in. He never shot or cleaned them. I picked them up for $500.00 for both.
I completely stripped them down and sprayed engine degreaser on all the parts including the stocks. Let them sit for a few hours then rinsed them off with hot water.
The degreaser pulled the old oil out of the stock. They came out real clean.
I completely stripped them down and sprayed engine degreaser on all the parts including the stocks. Let them sit for a few hours then rinsed them off with hot water.
The degreaser pulled the old oil out of the stock. They came out real clean.
Oops...yeah, I knew that...it's meters. Haven't been there for quite a while because of what it lacks. It's the only place I will have to shoot the Garand, at least in the short term, so when I get the time, I figure that's where I'll sight it in.
Detritus
Member
Frandy said:
what area of the county are you in, and how far are you willing to drive for a range?
B/c if membershipis still as reasonably priced as when i left the state (and if it's still open membership, it's been 6 years now), "the range" a privately owned range between butner and oxford, is/was a real nice place to shoot.
Well, that is the BIG and unknown question right now. As I haven't had a high power rifle for many years, I'm not sure how often I'll shoot it, how often I want to go to a "distant" range, how much I want to spend to go to a Sir Walter Raleigh or other club I could join.
I live in Raleigh.
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